Dose Pipe Sutututu

Go the VCT, fuuark.

No idea, in the Hi Octane Ad, says R33 and R34 coming soon? Lol.

Very good pricing, considering how much fabricator charge these days for just that!

SP Muffler will have an OTS 4" system for R33s soon. They already have them for R32s, very sex. https://www.hioctanedirect.com/SP-Mufflers-4-Inch-Cat-Back-Stainless-Exhaust-With-Ovan-Muffler-Suit-R32-GTR I'm no affiliated or anything like that.

I love it when I see aftermarket FPRs on stock cars.

Seems this is common on RB26 However makes more sense on the lower hose as it's cooler and will promote flow And correction to my previous post about it being the RB26 thermostat, we can see that it's not in this photo

@fletch rb30 looks good! If my motor wasn't in the car, or the timing belt was off, I would be redoing the hardline to run it in front of the motor like what you've done. Another idea is to return it back to the thermostats housing, similar to how it's done on the RB26, could that be an option?

Fitted, will adjust the angles of the fittings once I fit up the loom. Under plenum, really wanted to convert that barb to a 6AN but yeah nah, wasn't a true 3/8" so that conversion fitting didn't work. Less messy now, the coolant hose mess is now gone!

This comment has kept me up at night (amongst other reasons). I've found a way to solve this mess, and that's to return the water line all the way to front where the OEM barb goes to the bleeder (where the thermostat housing is). Funny enough, old GReddy plenum instructions just stated to plumb it into the fitting I had initially chosen. Anyhow this is what I've knocked up. It connects from the turbo coolant return hard that goes behind the head (I made this, similar to the half rubber/half hard line OEM one). Then sweeps down and runs along side the plenum to the thermostat housing where there's a 90° fitting which goes into a 3/8" barb. I originally bought a female 3/8" to 6AN fitting to convert the OEM barb, but it wouldn't go over. So yeah we landed at this.

I'm going to sound like a broken record now, PWM your pump and you won't have this issue. Unless you're a speed boat and on WOT for minutes on end.

I want to see crimps better than what would be minimum standard for the now dated International Space Station. Street GT-Rs now have better wiring than Space X Falcon Heavies

I nearly feel this is the issue, those insulated terminals are aids to crimp correctly.

I usually rip off the insulation off those terminals and crimp them down without it (to get a better crimp) then heat shrink over the top. Man, just PWM your fuel pump and enjoy life lol.

Nek minnit, big reveal, he's bought a G80 M3 😂

New on top, old on the bottom. New with old sleeve, old with nothing. New firewall grommets. I need a new hobby. Also made my ChynaFlow turbo water return line back to the thermostat housing. Could have just used a length of EFI hose but no, I wanted braided but on a budget so bought Aeroflow junk. Might regret soon.

That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.

I wouldn't think you would need a flyback diode, as it's an OEM replacement parts for a fan controller/relay on a Dodge. Another tried and tested option are the Volvo XC90 (or similar) fan controllers.

Link has a great forum topic on the Dorman 902-310. Just do the same for your fuel pump and enjoy life. I would run it at 1kHz+, the higher the better. I'm running mine at 1kHz but that's due to the Crydom's limits. https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/23999-g4-monsoon-dorman-902-310-cooling-fan-pwm/

Looks good but wow the price tag

Kind of, but you'll cry at the price. https://pure-pf.com/product/maxxecu-pwm-module/ Another option is using a PDM and doubling up the outputs. Another another option is using a Volvo Fan Relay (PWM, fly back diode, heatsink all in one) Another another another option (I might do this one day, also has a fly back diode, built in heat sink, will happily run at 5kHz) is the Dorman 902-310

Very gregged up, hope the New FY goes well.

PWM too, less melty

I'll PM you

Better built than a Falcon Heavy Space X rocket.

would a NPC one work? https://www.npcperformance.com.au/product/lightweight-billet-steel-flywheel-rnf03/ and here's their catalogue: https://www.npcperformance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/NPC-Performance-Flywheel-Catalogue-2023-Full-List-WEBSITE.pdf (I am not affiliated, even though I keep recommending their shit lol... I am going to buy a Xtreme clutch soon)