Dose Pipe Sutututu

Is it a S15 helical diff? if so they're decent. Just a few idiosyncrasies to deal with when going up driveways when 1x wheel is off the ground, etc.

learn something everyday! In that case you would be better off just getting a R33 GTS-t diff, 5 bolt stubs and shafts. Similar to what the S15 guys do, at the same time put in a proper LSD centre as the viscous centre is junk.

uC-10 Done.

These guys know the secret sauce https://www.dashfreaks.de/nissan-skyline-r34/

Any updates? Curious to know/hear/see experience on these clutches and if it's just all hype. Other option is just to get a run of the mill Xtreme Twin Plate organic and enjoy life and not worry about complications. My clutch is starting to do weird shit after 3x motors and 10+ years of abuse. When you ride it, and try to park the shit box, it sounds like a munted horse after 10 cones.

How did you get a S15 diff to fit in your R34? I understand in a R33 with ABS but doesn't make sense as the diff is the same length as a R33 non ABS. R34 has 2x ABS rings and sensors on the output flange where as a S15 or R33 has the ABS sensor on the diff input flange area.

Decel table, column 60°C add 100 rpm to all the cells, at 80°C add 200 rpm to all the cells, at 90°C at 300rpm too all of them. On the last screen shot, set the fuel enrichment at 20%, try 25%, if it's too much you'll notice a massive rich spot/bog on transient. I think mine is at 25% and it's just good, this is all dependant on intake manifold a d injector position.

Post up a screen grab of the fuel decel rpm table, might be that

Did you try to get in touch with Ross? They will start to reply then ghost you completely. Even though I was super polite and understanding. Guess I'm not some famous tiktok YouTuber, hence they don't give two shits.

DBW e-throttle conversion. Will drive better, idle better, have superior throttle articulation (change the slope however you want), proper cruise control, boost control (by limiting throttle max open rate based on boost / engine speed thresholds) etc. Everything the stock throttle can't do. Only downside, you can't open your bonnet and record a selfie video with the throttle at WOT yelling "RB Powahhhhh woooooooooo"

Bolt up stock cat, run lazy timing on E85, should be fine yah? Lol.

Same as Australia, some police officers are strict and some are lenient and don't seem to mind the modifications, provided they are semi legal.

Made 439kW at the rear hubs at 1.8bar of boost tapering down to 1.7bar on E85. Has a (now ancient) Garrett GTX3576 Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided housing. I just leave it on max boost all day lol.. car sees more track time than the street anyway.

Check the wiring behind the headlight that connects back to the engine harness (assuming the stagea's layout is similar) That plug should supply IGN power to the harness from what I remember.

FWIW I run Kelford 264/272 9.6mm and still retain VCT. VCT is great, enables all that low end torque to help bring on the turbo earlier compared to a non VCT motor.

Cracker read mate! Would be nice to meet you soon, probably when the kids are a bit older and I'll take them along to see the world's fastest 4 door skyline

Time for millspec wiring, MoTec electronics package, Bosch Motorsport ABS, let's goooooooo!!! Maybe as @MBS206 suggested, just swap out those stupid blue relays near the ECU plug.

#nissanlife The joys

Jesus... Rip it all out, start again.

Looks like it's going to an amplifier somewhere. Might as well rip out the lot and run a new amp, and head unit with Android Auto / crApple Car Play

It's different, the GT-R has the dryer attached to the front of the condenser. Where as on the GTS/-t it's inside the engine bay, next to the charcoal canister. I suspect if you changed the lot (dryer, condenser, compressor) it may just all fit (please DYOR).

Another way to see what the idle is doing, is to graph it in real time. On the time graph select the idle base duty and the actual duty and the error rate. That way you can set the base duty a bit higher than what the actual duty cycle applied to the idle control valve. On the slow Nissan IACV, I like to set the base a tiny bit higher than the actual duty cycle during correct idle and target rpm, allowing the closed loop idle strategy to reduce the idle duty as required to meet the target

Try lower the base duty cycle on for your idle table. Also check if your TPS is calibrated properly (don't follow the OEM guide, just go into calibrate TPS in the Haltech settings menu and follow the 2x step procedure) if not the ECU will not enter idle state properly

This.... If it feels slow, just add more boost and pull out timing.