Dose Pipe Sutututu

So after some Chat GPT (yeah I know lol..) it turns out that the R35 GT-R BMC conversion may not be suitable for our shit boxes as it splits the fluid 60:40 instead of 70:30. When looking at possibly doing the 370Z conversion, it seems it's quite similar to how the R35 GT-R booster & BMC mounts up, however after some additional digging the 370Z BMC bore is the same size as a R33/34 GT-R BM57 one. Brake Pressure Split: Nissan 370Z: The typical front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the 370Z is approximately 70:30. This is designed to handle the car’s weight distribution and performance characteristics, favoring the front brakes heavily due to weight transfer during braking. Nissan R33 GT-R: The front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the R33 GT-R is also typically 70:30. However, this ratio is tuned for the GT-R's specific weight distribution and dynamic performance, considering its all-wheel-drive system and higher performance expectations. Despite having the same nominal 70:30 ratio, the actual distribution of braking force in practice can be different due to other factors like vehicle weight, ABS and EBD systems, and brake component sizes. Bore Sizes: The bore size of a brake master cylinder affects the hydraulic pressure generated within the braking system and can vary between different vehicles based on their braking requirements. Nissan 370Z: The brake master cylinder typically has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore. The secondary bore can vary slightly depending on specific trim levels and brake options, such as the Nismo version or those equipped with the Sport Package which features larger brakes. Nissan R33 GT-R: The brake master cylinder in the R33 GT-R generally has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore as well. Given the GT-R's high-performance context and advanced braking system, the bore size is designed to provide sufficient hydraulic pressure for its braking needs. Comparison: Brake Pressure Split: While both vehicles use a similar 70:30 ratio in the brake master cylinder design, the actual operational distribution might differ slightly due to differences in brake system components, vehicle dynamics, and tuning for each model. Bore Sizes: Both the 370Z and R33 GT-R use a master cylinder with a primary bore size of around 1 inch (25.4 mm). This similarity helps in providing robust hydraulic pressure for effective braking. Additional Considerations: Braking System Design: The overall brake system, including calipers, rotors, and the master cylinder, is designed to work as an integrated unit. Even with similar bore sizes and pressure splits, the performance and feel of the brakes can differ due to variations in brake pad composition, rotor size, and ABS tuning. ABS and EBD: Both vehicles are equipped with Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD), which further modulate and optimize braking force between the front and rear wheels dynamically, depending on driving conditions and brake demand. In essence, while the 370Z and R33 GT-R have some similarities in their brake master cylinder specifications, they are tuned to meet the specific performance and handling characteristics of each vehicle. TL;DR, just use a R33 BM57 and call it a day.

I did have a squiz but haven't come across anyone adapting it to a shit box Skyline.

Will be done when I do the brakes 😊 Thinking a R35 BMC.

100% This was also considered however the whole 370Z caliper came up at a good price and I couldn't suppress my temptations to buy it and take me further and further away from owning a factory fast car in the future. Nissans addiction is worse than a meth addiction.

That may or may not be me that replied 😅

Hmmm yeah nah 😅 Would swap for a F80 M3 Competition

Could you have not cut off the OEM flange, weld on a larger flange for DBW?

Agree! I still believe I have the quietest 400kW+ R33 in Australia.

I'm not going to argue with you. OP just wanted to replaced his stock manifold with another one for his stock turbo. Besides wasting money, he will achieve nothing besides added lag and most likely 0 additional power.

My point is more so focused on the division between cylinders 1 to 3 vs 4 to 6. Any low mount "bolt on" aftermarket manifold utilises an open T3 collector which has crap all scavenging effects. Sure it might allow you to slap in more timing up top to make a little more but you'll lose all the down low performance. Even Tao from @hyper-gear has experienced the same when modifying the stock manifold. He has experienced added lag by cutting out the divider inside vs. leaving it alone. Twin scroll works, even if the effort is focused primarily on the manifold and an open scroll turbine housing. Please don't confuse me with a V8 NA or Americans that thinks you need back pressure in a 4 stroke motor.

Probably a bit too much for my liking, like it would be enough to get the car to cross up of you were to over cook and entry (happened T2 a couple of times).

This is why I can't afford a Porsche 911 or a new M3. Farken. Will hopefully provide me with a bit more braking capacity at SMSP. Going from a 324mm to a 354mm rotor will also help dissipate heaps of heat. Not mention, the rears will also be upgraded to balance the brake bias. Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers.

Closer to getting the shit box back on the road. That long hose, took 2 months to acquire. However the rest were all already to go same week I ordered them. For those playing at home, that long hose is for a RB25DE N/A motor, as they don't run a water/oil heat exchanger, the hoses underneath the plenum are much more elegant and not a maze of shit.

Just need to weld it in and done

You can hide it by adapting this Aussie made kit: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwezeKMschT/?igsh=dzNyaGV6NXZuYTJh

Squealing is aids. Street cars, weekend track cars are not allowed to squeal.

It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.

It's great for shelf stable groceries and home stuff. Cheaper than Woolies/Coles, I love it. Need shit paper? Next day delivery, need stuff to cook with? Next day delivery.

It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10

Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.

Out of curiosity, does your car have ABS? *** Ignore, you've posted it a non ABS BMC

You're onto something here... Maybe that's his plan all along, he's just pretending to leave it stock then nek minnit, LS Bogan MX5

I reckon give him a few months, LSX swap would be good

wao, this page is good https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nab/

LS swap yeah good.