Dose Pipe Sutututu

Ooo delish, very solid settings

RB25DET NEO + head studs, boss motor.

That tuna actually got the stock map, and added timing to it...... derp derp derp.

More like his tuner is a tuna.. aka a moron. There's too much timing in the map and there's a high chance it's beyond MBT for each of the load points. I've asked for logs in 3rd, will look at them soon and advise him on next steps. Those timing figures are for e85 and even so that's considered high.

ahh the values go "retarded" when you enable knock feedback, essentially when the ECU detects knock through the OEM knock sensor in those "retarded" cells it will read from the knock map.

Thanks for the map, so yeah... the amount of timing in that map is just crazy..... this is why it won't spool early.

Wow solid motor, imagine it had a turbo on it... hmmmmmmmmm

you're alive!!!!

send it to me, I am a Nistune tuner send it to johnny (AT) trak-life.com

you can do the same thing with a MAP sensor, I tune both work with both. If it's purely a street car and you're on a budget get Nistune... whatever you do, do not get a PowerFC. If money isn't an issue, get a Haltech, leave your AFM there just use the internal MAP sensor. Nistune will support R35/HPX AFM, will support flex setups, has launch control supports boost control etc... it's wonderful bit of kit.

Those HPX AFM don't suffer too much from reversion, also will read more air than a Z32 (provided it's in the correct tube and meshed both sides). I recently did a S15 with a R35 AFM and it was hitting 5V before it was even making 200kW.. turns out the tube was too short and wasn't meshed (create some uneven flow and turbulence). I advised the owner to mesh both ends and extend the tube/pod. Made a healthy 238kW towards the end with the injectors at 99% DC.. then turns out, he didn't remove the OEM pressure relief valve inside the fuel tank.. now that's removed it's going to go back on the dyno for Round 3. This is a S15 with Nistune, on full flex if anyone is using a R35 or HPX AFM... I suggest this:

Replace that Z32 with a HPX R35 afm.. they run better than a Z32 setup on the pressure side.

Is your VCT working?

Haltech doesn't use the AFMs, you still need to run a vac feed to the ECU or run an external sensor (which I prefer to do). There's an option to run the afm, but why would you? I don't think anyone has every bothered to even try that (including myself).

Look into ECU Master USA. They have plug kits for RBs. Built in LSU 4.2 controller full sequential injection and ignitor and there will be more workshops available with the knowledge because after all, it's from your country. And.. if a workshop that says they can tune can't tune a Haltech, well they should find a new job... Lastly, Nistune is awesome... it may be "older tech" but what other ECU offers full flex, launch, and boost control for 500$ with change left for hookers and blow?

Easiest option really, and only smash in timing into areas of the timing map where boost is ramped for WMI. Downside to that you could go from no timing to loads of timing with WMI and your torque would ramp up super hard. Some like that, some don't (I personally don't like it for track but for street would bring smiles to driver and passenger when there's a surge in torque and head snaps)

Oh no, she's finally going

Trent is good, he will sort it out. Seen several maps most of which are very good. Seen big tuning shops in Sydney with tunes that could be done by a 2 year old holding the number 8 key.

The guy previously posted has a PowerFC (dinorawr) will have crap all inputs, thus I recommended cutting his EBC's solenoid when there's no WM.

leave the HICAS ECU plugged in.. don't unplug it you probbaly need a wheel alignemnty too

Easiest is to hook up your EBC solenoid to the WMI kit, so it only works when there's WM in the tank.. when it runs dry then your solenoid is deactivated and you only run gate pressure. Also timing can be advanced only in higher load cells, which can be only achievable when the EBC solenoid is working and you boost over gate pressure. Hope that makes sense.

If your tuner is smart, and say in the event those milled X-Spurts (I don't have experience tuning them) don't idle well on 98RON, you can drop the fuel pressure to say 2.5bar with the vac hose off on idle (then connect it back once you've finished setting the FPR). This means now you can run higher pulsewidths and have the correct amount of fuel injected to maintain the idle and AFR of your choosing and you have plenty of headroom for the future.

It's a 4G63T, they spool anything.... also he's on a full TS setup... and maybe he might have a slightly stroked motor lol... still, amazing!

Pretty happy with my tuna, I'm sure others are too. Well Mr Skidz, I'm actually more interested in your transient response I'm not a drag racing kind of guy either, not sure if you haven't noticed at all?

should provide a log with: MAP RPM TPS Gear VSS Time Then go for a drive shift 2nd to 3rd to 4th to 5th Then we can analyse the RPM vs TPS vs MAP... what you will see is when TPS is 0% and as TPS reaches 100% again in between gear changes that boost falls on it's arse and takes a few moments to come back on.