Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,521
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. or LS coils or Toyota Yaris ones (brilliant on SR20s, 4Gs, just haven't seen any on RBs)
  2. This R33 NA is exceptional value at 15k http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kemps-creek/cars-vans-utes/nissan-skyline-r33-gts-4/1105947201
  3. aluminium can between BOV & flange like I just said man!
  4. Also that car sounds butchered.. stock RB25DE ECU with a turbo slapped on it.. don't dick about with the fuel reg or mixing and matching shit without an aftermarket ECU or at least a piggy back (as you have an auto)
  5. back in the days when my piece of shit was even more of a piece of shit... but it dosed hard No Airbox Lid: With Airbox Lid: And Last Year:
  6. Oh shit I have, bruh youse need to take off ya stock bov, cut up your favourite aluminium can and make a blanking plate using that. Then drill two holes and sandwich it between your BOV and BOV 2x bolt flange. Fully sick ulleh, dose for days and make betches drop their panties
  7. are you racing your car? are you tracking it? if it's just a streeter with some drag racing just drop in studs and torque them up well and spend the remainder of your cash on hookers, cocaine and molly LOL...jk.. buy a decent radiator, oil cooler and a 1.5/2 way LSD to put the power down.
  8. FYI.. Matt Wooten makes probably same power as myself and regularly tracks his car too.. he doesn't even have head studs and the motor is still performing (Neo motor). No need to pop the head and do a headgasket if you're not shooting north of 400kW in my opinion.. and if you get close to that, time to build the rest of the bottom end.
  9. speakers mounted outside the car and VL Dose YouTube videos on repeat.. 10/10 cutsick
  10. taking off the head is more work, however if you're up for it then do it However when you think of a budget build, then there's no "real" need.. just change 1x stud at a time and torque them about 20nm off their rated torque requirements, then go over them at the correct torque once all the studs have been replaced (from middle and work your way out).
  11. Also when installing the oil cooler, if budget doesn't permit for a thermostat do not remove the factory water/oil heat exchanger. It's there for a reason - even if you run a thermostat leave the water/oil heat exchanger as it's good for bring up the car to operating temp.
  12. From my experience, if you're running both ports on the EWG you're able to nearly get double the default wastegate pressure.. with older style (single port ones) you would try and load up the spring as close to your max. desired boost pressure to avoid boost bleeding off.
  13. ASI is great for street, drags and light track work. Once you get serious, PWR or Koyo
  14. On 98 better off with coppers as you can launch them when they carbon up on e85 iridium for sure, gapped down those bitches won't miss a beat
  15. If your tuner has been wise enough to interpolate the cells around the loaded parts of the map then you'll be fine.. especially on a car that runs an AFM A quick squirt on the dyno would be a great way to check.
  16. Don't see an issue with the S15 diff with that power... but if you want to make it stronger, swap over to a R32 or R33 Skyline diff as it runs 5x1 bolts not 3x2 smaller bolts. A car I recently worked on and re-tuned shits out 320kW at the rear and gets tracked every month or 2nd month and still is completely fine.
  17. more timing and lean it out (within reason) between 0 and 80 kPA
×
×
  • Create New...