GH05T

FIIIIIIIInally got the car tinted. why i didn't do that before summer i do not know. anyway when they guys were tinting it they found that the top of the window was no longer sealing. i knew the rubber was coming up, but the actual sealant between the window and glass has failed. water would be coming through it this winter OR, it would pop out... that would not be coos as its a genuine wiperless window and irreplaceable. top ruber just falling away, would not reseat at all. bottom edgings are shit aswell. i plan to paint the car or at least roof at some point so i will be ordering a full set of genuine rubbers, seals and surrounds at that point, but for now i just need to make it functional. window out, quick rust check, there are a couple of little spots but nothing that cant wait untill the proper paint. this is the corner that failes, rust spot We cleaned it all up and put some treatment on it and resealed it all up properly.

ooooh, i like innovation. reminds me of my old R31club days.

same, delux

https://m.facebook.com/groups/158878344286716?view=permalink&id=533597423481471

Hey man, there is one for sale on fb... ill see if i can link it.

Ironcheff got back to me and stated that LCT "WILL" be applicable, this f**ks it up a bit but oh well

love this car

a knackered battery can cause allot of issues, it may just be dead.

i would like to see what actually happens with LCT, im in the auto industry and lct is a huge player for cars. at the moment LCT needs to be paid ON NEW CARS, but the grey area which we play, a used car does not pay it but if a "demo car" is registered under a dealer the lct flows down to the first owner, but a used car does not apply, so its the first registered owner of the "new car" so if a used car (500km 12 month) car comes from japan, i dont know if LCT will be applied or not, big difference if you wanted to buy a $300,000 car for instance. hopefully the actual effect is not against the dealers but the manufactures. they might need to stop charging the Australian market (the retailers... not the consumers) more for cars that are sold cheaper overseas. its not the dealers fault that we get a higher price, we do not make more money that our overseas counterparts, their are not higher margins, probably lower. we are the P'platers of the world market, we get what we are given and that is a small part of the available line up and we generally miss allot of the specs given to all ofther countries, Then we are charged the Australia tax because we have no choice. if a Nissan dealer can finally sell their cars for the same price as japan, im sure they would be happy. it also means that they will give us models we couldn't not get before due to pressure of lost sales from the dealer groups. i once spoke to a Nissan high up from japan through, we complained that we couldn't get certain models that that Australia should be looked after he response was this. we can make our entire year of Australian delivered vehicle in one day, if the Australian market became to hard to deal with, we can just take a day off" as a jap import consumer, its all sorts of giddy good news, but im honestly hoping, from an Australian industry point of view that it dosnt become damaging, because it has the potential to go either way. its defiantly going to cause some adjusting and i hope it does create a free'er more open, consumer driven market. but spare a thought for the businesses behind it which may get damaged.

Mark X for me

would the rocket dancer lip help? it about as aggressive as you can get on angle.

np, black smoke is unburnt fuel, you will probably get backfiring too depending on your exhaust. your ignition is not burning the fuel or your timing/ ecu is causing the richness from false readings, just check all the electronics to make sure their reading correct signals and check your plugs to see which is fouling, might as well replace them anyway.

running super rich, thus the black smoke. does it sould like a WRX? i would also blame an ignition issue or something electronic. have you checked your coilpacos, afms, tps all the obvious stuff? rich wont hurt the car quickly. see if you can clear it out, if no isolate each cylinder by unplugging the coilpack. if one makes no difference thats your issue.

yeah gauges need the wide spread leds otherwise they look shit.

not my stag but i do like the LED gauges, should always be done imo did both my 32s

take the wheels off and see whats been installed, if you have excessive negative camber it may have aftermarket camber arms already, i cant see from that pick but it may be from being too low. and are you saying its got coilovers in the front but nor rear and is low all round? thats a bad combo. nothing is going to make those wheels fit though, bigger tires (which may be more suited to the wheels) are never going to fit the car, you can bandaid an offset too high but not too low, those wheels do not fit period. do this: - new wheels that fit the car. - "if" the aftermarket suspension is adjustable raise it back up or, - get coilovers, stock structs or new suspension to suit the height you want and get the car to the required height (good move) - IF the camber is still too negative get new camber arms to suit (probably stock)

...........wut the tires dont fit the rims because the car is lowered? what are you trying to fix? do you want negative camber to fit wide wheels under a low car? camber is the only thing squeezing the wheels (which are either too wide or the wrong offset however you look at it, you aint fixing that without new wheels) under the car. raising it will reduce some natural camber but then your wheels are going to poke out more. do do you want to raise the car and remove the negative camber? that pick tells us nothing, also what is your current setup? wheels specs, what has been changed? what suspension components are you using? do you have adjustable things like coilovers or adjustable camber arms ect.

need to buy in SA R32 gtr AC climate controll unit, mine is playing up also need a grey passenger door, mine has a rust hole. pm me if you have one and we can work out a deal, SA prefered fro the door for postage but if you have a good one, pm me. glyn

surly you would just to go the skyline wheel offsret page and work it out from there. choose the face with the backspacing to suit? very unlikley you will get the perfect answer

love those Kakimoto exhausts

also a gtr (r32) reverse switch brand new $20

i was talking about the pivot ball.

something with a bit of weight to it, i use chain grease, i just got it in a spray can with a long straw spout.

gktech are fine, the reality is anything stock or stronger will be fine. the issue is that you have been putting huge pressure on it for a while, if it has been squeaking it means it has been rubbing allot on the arm and will have made a groove, check to see if the next one will rub on the old groove, if the contact patch is off and rough it will just wear out, rub, squeek and eventually snap. if it was lubricated when squeaking ti should have been fine.