Dan_J

does your aac valve work?

i'm liking the progress still do wonder how much cooler intake temps would be with the cooler in front of rad, as logically that would be drawing ambient air through the cooler, not warm, but i'ma be quiet woohoo skids to come!

oil press on rb20/25 is 1/8 bsp much like most aftermarket pressure sensors, rb26 i assume would be the same water temp for rb20/25 is a m10 or m12 however the cluster temp gauge sensor and ecu sensor do have a different pitch hope thats of some help

thought that was just if you ran water in injectors for a while it would rust up, not just for a lil test, and with a water/ liquid pump not fuel pump but fair enough yep pressure tested the intake with the plastic end cap and tyre valve method, no real leaks, holds pressure fine

well it run, boosted and skidded fine on the walbro for quite awhile before electrical issue, now crazy laggy barely making boost, fouling plugs, stalling etc does anyone even know what the regulator looks like? i'm not sure, may even be one in the ecu i'll give the injectors a test with water and a 12v pump to see if they seal/ close fully

shockworks wont touch other brands, have been in contact

so its not fuel pressure, 43-45 psi on idle 50 psi on revs/ regulator vacuum hose unplugged . can injectors leak on the inside, say kinda stuck half open when they're ment to be closed? as when i put stock injectors back in they got mixed with a spare set will also try a another stock ecu soon

looking baller man, except whats the deal with your interheater set up being mounted behind the rad?

just dont run 24" rims as in the above alignment picture general car alignment should be the same as s13 + what ever feels better front camber- pending how much grip you need while turning, how long you want your front tyres to last from camber wear 2.5 deg should be nice and grippy even for both side 7-8 deg castor pending how you want steering wheel to flick back, think stock is 6 deg maybe.. front toe 0.5mm toe each side so total toe 1mm rear least amount of camber unless fitment game rules over grip toe is usually driver preference, least amount for straight line grip, adding more and playing around can help with stability while drifting

mine stopped working as well, in the engine bay i found a random ignition source and replaced the ac relay trigger wire with that, sure the relay will always be open when the car is on, but ac will only work when u push the a/c button on climate control

why not just clean it with fuel, best cleaner around and works on intercoolers too just make sure to rinse it with water

i've read that one thread, quite a weird one there, although im not running a huge 400/450 lph walbro. I'll put a pressure gauge on to rule it out

good review, i'm tempted to get the X-c for the daily i wonder if the X-c are more comfy than shockworks coilovers.... hmmm who has MCA coilovers in vic ?

so on a rb20 cefiro, walbro pump, stock injectors, ecu, afm, i had to wire the fuel pump relay trigger wire to ignition and bypass the factory voltage regulator due to an electrical fault. car isnt a daily and hasnt been in use due to an electrical problem which was put on the back burner until recent. swapped out spark plugs for new ones as they were fouled up, plugs still seem to be fouling up, stalling on idle randomly after some time, bit of throttle keeps it from stalling as i figure more air = better mixture, less fuel. also car is quite laggy than usual as i figure fouling plugs, too rich and bad spark is the only real change is the voltage regulator bypass, other than the past electrical issue, so to rule one thing out i wonder who has bypassed the regulator and had problems etc as described ? thanks

im running a nistune in a manual s1 with r34 ecu , had to swap around some wires for injectors as pinouts are different, havent had any luck with the aac valve tho

thats some well informed insight. i guess this game of cat and mouse is an endless circle

what kind of sensor are you using for your air temp?

does anyone have links and contacts for aluminium in Victoria, mainly for straight pipe/tube however full industrial retailers that do sheet, plate etc would be useful too

wrong thread man...... now its all spammed up ... booooooo anyway ask questions here --> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/page-42 now someone make me into a mod....muhahaha SAU domination

after a r34 turbo neo ECU or ecu with nistune if reasonable priced pm or txt only on 04138204 two one

RB25⁄20 EXCEDY HD 5 puk button clutch KIT near new barely used swapped back to a less aggressive clutch txt on 04138204 two one, i do shift work so a txt is preferred located : Vic-SE $400

so i've been told the awd system uses a separate ecu for the atessa in the r32, so in saying that the engine ecu should be the same as the rwd ceffy one

could it be due to the fact that the cat/ muffler and length of exhaust distorts the exhaust gases to a leaner mixture if dyno wideband is clamped onto the muffler tip and not the fact that there is much of a difference between the two widebands ? so the problem your having is not directly related to running too lean and the current bandaid fix that made a slight difference is just that ?

well ecu pin outs are the same so you could wire in a r32 unit if you had the plugs off a loom

best ecu in cefiro is from an r32, the a31 ecu is a lil spazzy on A/F ratios and yes r32 ecu works fine