Dan_J

just head down to enzed and grab a length of heater hose, and cut to suit

weighing up the costs you could just up grade the system to ls2 truck chevy coil pack seeing as you are in that neck of the woods. i guess the cheapest way to confirm this is to chop the suspect plug off (with some wire still left on the plug so you can solder it back on if its not the issue) then re-pin those wires on the loom with individual speaker wire crimps ( or what ever size suits), sleeve the crimps in heat shrink from tip till exposed wire and use a pair of pliers to crush the crimps down a tiny bit so it holds tight on the coil pack unless the signal wire for no. 4 is damaged in the main engine loom

i do wonder what the V8 supercars and other commercial racing are running for fuel? i'm sure if the demand is bumped back up with proof and commercial promoting of E85 as a reliable fuel it will coax the masses to see the fuel from a better perception

isn't it argued that our cars are unsafe if we run a FMIC and a POD filter ? but yes air bags can be engineered and mod plated on a similar topic, does anyone know if coilover sturts can be modified to insert longer stroke shocks?

on the stock 2pin r32 oil pressure sensor one pin is for pressure reading and the other pin is for the red light indicating too low or no oil pressure

just on the factory bung atm so right next to turbo outlet , will weld a bung at the end of the front pipe when i get round to it. dont see how that could be a major problem as a few new cars run wideband from factory i only re-calibrated the sensor by removing it and unpluging as the procedure, will try it through the laptop setup as i did a few months ago

so i've got an Innovative wide band sensor and gauge to suit ( basic option ), i've set it up, calibrated it and its been working fine for 3-4 months, although now i'm getting random readings through out the air fuel ratio. the gauge might display correctly for a little bit then will hunt from 8 to 22.1 and get stuck on 22.1 until the car is restarted and no the car doesnt lean out and stall when this happens. i took out the sensor from the dump pipe and re-calibrated it which only fixed it momentarily and the problem came back after a day or two. i'd like to know people's thoughts/ ideas on this issue ?

could be a mixture of s14/r33 as its pretty much the same thing for the rear.... just double check that bolt pattern on rear half shafts to confirm what diff it will bolt up to if the c34 is non abs you'll need a non abs type diff to suit the tail shaft

i've been told theres an extra "ground" wire, although a local auto electrician tried/ indended to wire up a vl/r31 cas to a cefiro should be do-able

post it up on the vic drift sales facebook page scum indeed

c34 not c33, should be s14

haha i know right! as you know tom the only thing stopping the unit from plugging in is extra slots in the plug and unit

cops probably wouldnt have a clue what it is anyway

fronts will although rears dont as the top hats and mounting studs are too wide, so can work if you swap and bolt in s13/r32 rear top hats ...

nope, but theres a wrecker in vic selling a s2 unit

after a s1 climate control unit for c34, have confirmed that s2 does not plug in with s1 wires as the plugs are made differently. would prefer in victoria otherwise anywhere will do if not thanks

hypergear has done the tests him self, larger ID exhaust manifold pipe will lead to more lag but better top end power, but not a huge amount mind you

looks good are these genuine ls2 truck coils or the china spec AC Delco D585 with the BSC1251 part number ?

could always split the fuel line with a brass 'Y' splitter to run 2 ryco filters, unless theres an effortless option

looks good are these genuine ls2 truck coils or the china spec AC Delco D585 with the BSC1251 part number ?

press out the bush for a r33 rwd style bush or just run a longer thicker bolt.. maybe drill out the mount bush to run a thicker bolt stagea rear subframe is wider then r33/34- s14/15

hey ben, was that a plastic type spacer that would also shield the heat soak off the head or was it alloy ?

got mine done recently for $265 at roys windscreens here in VIC thats with the sun strip tint and no antenna

if its leaning out so bad with the evident knock levels then just remove the e-clip in the actuator and disconnect the rod from the waste gate for no boost and set duty cycle at 95 or lower. that is if its a daily and u cant get it sorted in time

if o'brians can get it, then roys windscreens, usually much cheaper or osaka imports in knox if they have any left