Dan_J

no clutch fan, running thermos works fine if your new rad is too thick and you can't run the clutch fan, get 'S' bladed fans as they work heaps better then straight ones

i have a jack similar the one posted at the start, if your car is low the higher part of the jack can get stuck on sway bar etc yet the lower part will be able to clear the crossmember but wont reach it due to being too short in length. so size does matter guys

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke. might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

tested my o2 sensor today, c34 stagea at warm idle to 3-4k revs i saw 0.3 -0.45 while parked. multimeter grounded in rocker cover and positive probe on black wire on o2 which is the thick brown wire on loom. not sure what i'm looking for to confirm its stuffed other then it not alternating, unless i'm ment to be seeing more then 0.5v with no load parked ? who can confirm?

is this the place near showgrounds, used to be a panel shop?

i thought this would have been a common sight on falcodore forums.... but sau? 1.install a water temp gauge as the stock ones are fair shit and laggy, add 500ml more oil 2. skip burnout comp and find an event to go drifting at

a31/c33,32,33,c34 stagea will work, the 2 pin plug is the same, the ground hole might be a tad different nothing a drill cant fix and the positive terminal can be flipped and used the opposite way if you have tabs on each end (or just trimmed ), might also need a slight drill pending application ebay says r31 fits r33./r32 so i'd figure so test your alt by putting a multimeter probe on the positive terminal on the alternator and the other on the neg bat/jumper terminal to confirm its not wiring like mine was

should keep this as the towing thread nice write up, how bad was fuel consumption while towing ?

so on my c34 stagea daily i was getting inconsistent charging results, while on idle i would get about 12.50v , with some revs low 13's.i cleaned and sanded all battery and alternator terminals with no luck. i figured the alternator was bad so i swapped out the 80amp c34 for a 90amp out of a r32 rb20, after a test there wasn't much of a difference. so i headed down to the local auto electrician at cherry automotive, and they had a look at the terminal just off the alternator. at the terminal on the alternator it was charging fine at 14v yet the battery was getting mid 12's. i was told to run a 2nd thick wire from the positive in the alternator to the battery. i headed down to the wrecker's and grabbed a thick starter motor wire ($4 bucks) off a ba falcon,one side already has a lug to suit the battery and the other i just used some big battery lug from jaycar. trimmed to suit length, just crimped it on a vise and now charging at 14v on low idle so battery is getting max voltage where most have to rev a bit higher to make volts climb figured i'd post this up as it may help a few and its a good way to rule out other problems mods can decide where this thread should go

not sure why we're comparing intake piping to cooler piping but its nice to know the difference it makes was the turbo slightly more laggy with the bigger piping as a trade off from response to more top end power?

check your heater hoses and turbo water drain line that goes to the intake mani it could be a pin sized hole and it will only piss out once the engine is hot or your rad has a slight leak

had a spare so it runs fine now and the beauty of it is these engines are about that price range the reason it broke is because i took off the cam gear cover and did the bolt up as per usual, where as when i dialed in cam gears for the first time i had the cover on making the process back and fourth much longer. the gear cover has a 4mm spacing to the cas mount doing it up tight with no cover or spacer is its downfall, so i made a spacer out of 3mm flat bar

i work on the principle of expect the worse yet hope for the best and i think i was pushing my luck with air leaks fixed on a responsive untuned motor.... think i'll leave it at that and let trent dail the rest of the adjustment in as shown in the pic attached Matt wins a prize on this one! all i have to offer is much cyber #homolove

Stick with the factory r32 ecu if its complete and untouched, the a31 ecu basically runs a heart beat of lean in the mixtures so its not so stable

yea i was thinking it could also be something like that, will give it a once over tomorrow other wise will swap out the engine when i can be bothered

so after i fixed all the boost leaks,i found that the adjustable cam gear bolts came loose. started dialing them back in to spec with test runs that i did 4th gear full boost to where it was and even better so under 3.5k to full boost with more adjustment in them. while testing i heard a loud backfire and engine stalls, tried to start it after awhile and i only get a loud backfire under cracking. fuel pump works and plugs just changed now, compression tested and is fine if valves were gone pretty sure that would have shown up on compression i'm just curious know what it could be with out taking it apart

never thought the wagon was anything too cool until i spotted this, have fun with it

pending how bad rings are you will get the plugs foul up with oil hence misfire

picked up a cometic gasket for 55 and they are reusable http://forcedmotorworx.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=72

dale, i just dont like the look of them, then the effort of putting two clips in each time you close the bonnet haha

NO could block off the line the goes from the rocker cover breather to the intake mani if running a breather on catch can, change hose on turbo water return line so no leaks and change heater hoses for any future leaks

think i've just found it.. adjustable cam gears came loose on the adjustment bolts, i even used thread lock will add better spring washers and adjust cams to suit again...

just pressure tested the intake with the plastic plumbing end cap and tyre valve method, fixed a few leaks including one on the rear fuel regulator located near the fire wall. i so i went to test out full boost response in 4th as i usually get 15-16 psi by 3.5k, i'm currently getting 16psi at 4k with air leaks fixed rb20 hyper v1 ss1 3" turbo back decat n no mufflers with no major zorst leaks the car didnt seem to misfire at all gapped at 0.8 copper plugs maybe getting old though i set timing a fair while back when i did the timming belt which was spot on only real thing that has changed is running a pod as air box with hi flow filter is on the other daily throw some ideas at me

looking good which TIG are you using ?

all you need is a bit of alloy round bar drilled, tapped and welded in