Murray_Calavera

With all your Haltech sensors, I'm guessing you also have a Haltech ECU? Grab the right software for your ECU from here. https://www.haltech.com/downloads/ Here is a nice little quick start guide. When you setup the data logger, you can just log every channel to keep things easy.

I was hoping you were going to say you have an aftermarket ECU. So, personally I wouldn't buy a R35 coil kit without already having an aftermarket ECU. I would be concerned about dwell time settings that the R35 coils want, might not match up with the original coils dwell time. With the aftermarket ECU you can set the dwell times so happy days. Stock ECU... not so much. I don't know how many people out there would be running $1000 worth of coil kit on a stock ECU, so dunno if anyone can personally confirm that it runs well on the stock ECU?

What ECU are you using?

You could go for a drive, plug in a laptop and log data. If you upload the data here, that would answer a lot of questions.

All good mate. No need to worry about actually hitting the 100 km mark, just zero out your trip meter the next time you fill up. Then whenever you decide to refill again, fill up the tank and post up how much fuel you used and the km driven. As for burning 54L/100km, I'd be amazed if that was the actual figure. If that was real, that is batshit crazy rich and I'm amazed the car runs well. We really need the actual numbers to be able to give proper feedback. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor in the car? Can you tell us what your cruising AFR's are like?

Life is easier for everyone if you use L / 100 km. What is your cruising AFR's like? Are we talking highway or around town fuel economy?

Would you consider using a dye and UV light to trace the leak?

I'll just leave this here - https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25-coil-pack-harnesses/

The bride website is pretty good for playing machy machy with their seats/rails. https://bride-jp.com/en/seatrail/

So reading this, I doubled checked the receipt for my diff..... @Kinkstaah sorry mate for all the confusion above. I have a Nismo GT Pro 2 way diff. I must have early onset dementia, I forgot it was the pro version =/ Sorry for the confusion everyone

@Kinkstaah I can 100 million % confirm that my nismo diff is the 1.5 way you are thinking of. I can still remember the exact moment when I forked out the $$ for a 2 way diff, looked inside and saw the uneven ramp angles and thought, f**k me, its a 1.5 way and not a 2 way. I was expecting that when I paid for a 2 way and all the nismo documentation, that silly certificate that nismo do, everything is stamped 2 way that I would in fact get what I thought was a 2 way diff, that is equal lock in either direction. Nope, full lock on accel and half lock on decell. I just accepted it and installed the diff, it was fine in the end. It turns out I really like the diff. I'm not going to strip the diff and take photos, but I can upload a photo of the silly certificate nismo do saying my diff is a 2 way if you like lol. I'm pretty sure I know the diff noise you are describing though. When I put a Cusco RS diff in my swift, it sounded like the diff was trying to smash itself out of the gearbox. It was an absolute nightmare. Fortunately the issue was solved by using Motul FF LSD gearbox oil, fkn expensive to change (I replaced it every 5,000k's) but worth the $ as it eliminated all the angry diff issues.

@Kinkstaah yeah that does sound truly miserable. Have you had the chance to drive/ride in other skylines with the same diff though? Mine doesn't drive anywhere near like what you are describing. The only non-factory sounds mine makes is at really low speed, like doing a 3 point turn or navigating a parking lot, you get the inside wheel lock up sometimes like its a welded diff (doesn't happen all the time though and my diff is setup to be quite aggressive in the way it locks up) and it sometimes makes little diff clunk noises (not all the time though) but the wheel chirp and diff clunk isn't what I'd call bad at all, I really like the added character when it happens lol.

I'm not native but my Japanese is better then nothing. I've translated the buttons I can see - 1. menu 2. bird's eye view 3. map / CD 4. return / go back 5. wide view / zoom out 6. close up view / zoom in 7. vehicle information 8. screen / image 9. TV If you get stuck navigating the menus once the car is on, feel free to upload photos and I can help you out with rough translation.

I'd be really keen to hear about what you specifically didn't like about it and how the diff was setup. Oh and what oils you used in it too and if that made any difference either.

The nismo diff is adjustable, you can make it very tame (ramp up slowly) if that's what your after. When driving sensibly on the street, I'd be amazed if you could pick the difference between a 1 way and 1.5 way diff. The ramp rate on the other hand will have a dramatic impact on how the diff behaves on the road. As for being concerned that the factory diff will 'clunk out later' due to its age, that's not something I would be worried about. If its running well now, I'd expect that it will continue to run well as long as you keep it maintained with fluid changes as required. The main benefits you'll get from upgrading the diff are the ability to put more power down reliably. More control of the car mid corner and at corner exit. More predictability with how the diff engages/locks up, etc.

You'll find plenty of street cars with the nismo 1.5/2 way diff. I'm running one and I really like it. If you are 100% set on getting a 1 way diff, I think Cusco still offer them.

Sounds good to me! When you say it sounds tinny, I'm guessing that's when your playing it back on your phone? Sounds great on the gear I'm using to listen to it.

I'm guessing you'll be buying pistons off the shelf (not having something custom made)? Whatever brand you end up going with, I'd pick up the highest comp piston they offer. As a guess you'll end up with something around 9.0:1, but in a perfect world you'd still want to run more on e85.

When you say piston size, are you talking 86mm, 86.5mm, 87mm? that sizing? If that's what your talking about, use the size to match the size of your bores. The factory size is 86mm. If you are rebuilding an old used block, it is likely that it will be slightly out of round and will need to be bored out. The removal of that material will mean you now need to use a piston that is one size up, so 86.5mm. When that same motor lets go and needs another rebuild some time down the track, when you bore it out again you'll be up to a size 87mm piston. Probably worth mentioning, you don't take your block to the machinist and ask for 86.5mm bores, then go to your parts store and order 86.5mm pistons. Take your pistons and block to the machinist, they will measure the pistons and bore out the block so that the pistons are happy with the piston to cylinder wall clearance. As for what compression ratio to shoot for, what fuel do you plan to run the car on? Aaaand probably wrong place to post this thread. It'll probably get moved.

Check all your suspension bushes, including subframe etc.

I'm keen to hear it

I would also like to know what happens when you hit 4500rpm. Can you load the haltech base map and give the car a rev in neutral and let us know what happens.

Are you trying to buy a single pin? Might be easier to just buy a replacement connector?

Manufacturers quote power at the engine, we quote power at the wheels, which will always be lower due to drivetrain losses.

Love to see some photos