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the ones on that gtr were 15psi ones aswell.

Hey, trying to finalise the laurel, anyone got any stereo brackets they wanna sell?

ID1000's come matched for flow.... why is this important? check the pic below. the pic attached is of generic ID1000 (bosch 1000cc) wanna bees. Look at the hug difference in flow.... there is enough difference in these to lose a motor... apparently it is now a big issue with all the 1000 and 2000cc stuff. If your serious buy the matched ID's or at least get your 1000cc injectors flow checked.

nothing wrong with bush or floating bearing turbos.The preload on the actuators can also make a HUGE difference to response on these things, we dial in 10mm minimum on them before install. Just make sure to balance them equally. check out this GTR with -5's, it picked up 900rpm. https://fbcdn-sphoto...445052851_n.jpg https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150611091641813&set=a.10150265368356813.328814.728171812&type=1

is it a conversion? i would look at alignment as 4th is straight through. Its a long shot but i had a r33 come in for an assessment as it was still crunching 4th and no-one could trace it, the customer had it built twice by the shop that did all the work and it still crunched. I pulled the box and noticed it had no dowels.... for shits and giggles i fitted a set and bang..It turned out to be simply missing dowels... odd as i hadn't seen it before but was a nice 40min fix.

haha snap

Its the result of the gate opening and slowing the accel rate. Normal. If your boost did not flatten then raise a bit (3700-4600) the curve would be flat.

Yeah nistune in z32 auto ecu into R33 is an ass.. its not quite right. Powerfc or any full plug in works (a HYPED6 posted), the only issue is a lower rpm lock out to drop back to first from second.

This comment "fuel mixtures from over 15.3:1 down to 14.5:1" throws up issues from the get go with cams, it should idle nearly std if its tuned right. DO you have a hand controller? ive got a quick test you can try.

TBH 50-60% of our tuning is now on E85

thats plain crap even E90 start first time every time when tuned right.... thats a lazy tuners excuse straight up.It can take a few mornings to get right though. I ask my customers to let me know if its not right so we can get it right.

Not really if its getting done properly and by $650 im assuming full retune, here's my thoughts on tune touch ups and why we dont do them.We dont touch up other shops tunes full stop, a tune from us would be the same price $650. First thing we do is revert to default and work from scratch on EVERY car, we do this for two reasons ONE is to make sure each parameter is the way "I" like it and the SECOND reason is we dont want to take on the possible faults from the other tune which may cause it to come back (things like cold start etc). That $650 is not just a tune charge but a goodwill charge which means we take on FULL responsibility for said tune... any cold start issues etc we will cover and not recharge to remedy if need be (rare but possible). Any engine mods done down the track get charged @ 150 P/hour,we can do this as we have a known good base to work from (most mods only take an hour or two at the most to tune for). Theoretically if i was to "touch up a tune" and charge $150 to fix a idle issue many people then assume i have fixed the tune, this is not so.... what if these changes at operating temp make the car hard to start cold or hot or introduces a stumble... the customer comes back and complains and then i have to patch another part of the other tune... and so and so on it often snowballs as the underlying base is not right.... and the responsibility for the tune in the customers eyes falls on me even though ive only done the idle and relevant parts..

Yeah im always suspect of DD graphs without te most important data visible. In fact we just did a test on a Mainline 4wd Dyno (new) and found quite a few variances in power outputs by changing very little 160rwkw first run r configure then run 200rwkw just by a few keystrokes...just to easy to fudge figures. Need to have the full story with dyno sheets.

Bit of an update we have found that the gates belts (especially the blue ones) are in certain cases causing issues with timing oscillation, the audible humming seems to also induce more belt oscillation at high rpm than the std Nissan belt. After swapping back to genuine belts the issues were fixed (3 cases now). No matter which way we adjusted the belt tension we could not get rid of the problem... fitted std belt with factory tension... issue fixed. If anyone has some new ones handy it would be good to get some secondary measurements on the tooth profiles, I have had a customer make comment (after measuring them up) that the blue belts have a slightly different profile and are not as snug in the cam sprockets as the genuine belts. I dont have any new ones handy to compare but it may be worth looking at if anyone gets bored. It wont be the case in every timing issue but one that is worth looking at if you run one of theses belts.

we have a few with around 20-30000 on them by now with numerous track days (5 or so)

Just to clear the air; from the link website: History: Link was one of the very early market entrants twenty years ago. 2010 witnessed a turn-around in the market perception of the Link name thanks to the technical excellence of its product. The launch of the ViPEC brand has seen a new product pitched against high end competitors with outstanding results. Continued clear and unambiguous differentiation is further required to propel the ViPEC name higher

when we get the dyno back on-line after the upgrade feel free to drop past and we will do a few tests.

dude there is a few neo engines for sale 1100-1500 in drift sales on facebook. Best safest bet.

aaaaah feck NG. But seriously how does one hole a cast manifold? was it the mech?