Beer Baron

both the injectors and the afms reach their 'safe' limit at about 270-280rwkw. you can push more if you want but it's not advisable. considering to get past 270rwkw anyway you will be spending up on turbos etc you really should spend the money to get the fuel system to match and the AFMs to allow you to tune it properly.

mate, just because they don't have it, doesn't mean they wouldn't be better off with it. I can make 400rwkw through a 3 inch exhaust, but I'd be better off with a 4inch one... ash, it's a well known problem with RB26 cooling. they can be a bitch to bleed up properly and they do get air pockets in the upper areas of the head cooling system. the more power you have and the more sustained high rpm running you do, the more sense it makes to fit one. I'm not saying your engine will explode without it, and it may not even affect your power or anything you care to measure, but is it an improvement? yes. is it a good idea? yes. is it worth doing on a serious circuit car? yes. I have seen plenty of heat damaged 26 heads that are cracked, or slightly warped etc to know that 26 head cooling needs all the help you can give it. I'm amazed that you somehow know that not one single person in victoria has ever fitted one. I will have to get my head under some bonnets this weekend and see if I can find just one... as I said above sure it's not 100% necessary but it's a good idea and not overly expensive to do. I'm also baffled as to how you somehow turn this into a nsw vs vic thing? that is just plain weird. I can also tell you that no body in romania has one on their serious track GTRs either, doesn't mean I wouldn't use one...

any really serious track car should have one. basically there are parts of the head coolant system in a RB26 that are the high point of the cooling system. any air therefore collects here and you get pockets of air and steam which give you uneven cooling in parts of the head. the header tank creates a new high point basically. the new high point is a little 'header tank' and this allows any air or steam to bleed itself out of your 26 head into the new header tank. sure it's not 100% necessary but it's a good idea and not overly expensive to do.

no problem, there are lots of little things I've skipped over which you need to think about. replacing the rear coolant/heater hoses with good silicone ones is a good idea while the engine is out. a header tank system is also a good idea to keep air pockets out of the head (ARC make a very good kit for it and not badly priced either) The engine build I haven't gone into any detail on as there are lots of thread on RB26 rebuilds and we could have a whole topic just on all the little details of the engine build. you may also need new coil packs, or even an ignition amplifier (HKS gold magic box of sparks works well even with standard coils) plus you'll want some good engine monitoring (heaps of options here, personally I use Defi gauges as they have easy to set warning levels, and peak hold and even better can records whole laps of data to look over in the pits and they are super easy to read and very accurate, but like I said there are so many choices here). also for track use in any fast GTR you really will need a proper fixed race seat and minimum 4 point 3 inch harness and a better sized wheel. Seat and harness is easy to swap in and out for track days though, maybe 20 or 30 minute job. Of course lots of the stuff I've suggested is not 100% necessary, and other stuff that is necessary could be substituted for other brands that will be cheaper. BUT nearly all that gear I've either used, or had experience with and it is all top quality parts at what I think is fair prices considering the quality you are buying and will all give you piece of mind, and a great overall result. So in my eyes it's worth the extra dough over cheaper gear. The other thing to bear in mind is often with other gear the parts maybe cheaper, but may need mods to fit, or more labour to install, or may not give quite as good a result, or may not last as long or even worse may fail and if you cost up those things often cheaper parts 'cost' you more in the long run.

yep definitely fitted engine with turbos and plenum in place. you can see the dump pipe in the first pic and the second one was taken I think with the engine already hooked up to the crane. This is the best way to go imo as fitting the turbos and dumps with engine in the car is a bit of a bitch. no flywheel or gearbox on though so they must have done that in car, but they have the starter motor sitting there ready I guess to save having to try and squeeze it in once the motor's fitted. and you can see the bolt the engine to the engine mounts, then just slot it into place on the chassis rather than fitting the mounts to the chassis first.

suspension wise the bilsteins are quite good. If you are serious about some track times I would then get: ikeya formula front lower control arms (these include redesigned and improved castor rods too) noltec front upper arms or cusco fixed length upper arms cusco front and rear sway bars (they are good quality, and hollow so light weight, much lighter and easier to fit than the solid ones and still good priced, ARC ones are nice but very expensive) Ikeya formula rear traction rods cusco rear upper arms ikeya formula lower rear control arms if you want a more street bias then consider using adjustable urethane bushes in your standard arms, but still get the cusco sway bars and good shocks and springs Also get hicas removed and install a lock bar, and a proper power steering cooler is a good idea. for the average bloke a trans and diff coolers is not really necessary but if you have the dough they certainly don't hurt. ARC make excellent kits for GTRs that come with everything you need for diff and trans cooling. Shock wise I would look at something like Tein RA or Tein RS, nismo R-tune or the Ohlins equivelant. They are all very good, all alloy shock body, mono-tube design with remote canisters and more adjustment than you will ever need. it's a good idea to get them dyno'd somewhere that knows what they are doing so they can give you some good initial damper settings so you don't spend forever chasing a good set-up. The teins are good as they can take their EDFC which makes it easy to adjust damper settings at the track and feel the difference straight way meaning you can instantly get an idea of if you are heading in the right direction or not. The bilsteins are good too and of course with less adjustment they are easier to set-up, but they miss out on a few of the nicities that the others above have.

Hi mate, yep it sold a few months back now. I didn't even get a chance to draw up an ad and really put it up for sale. It really got sold before I'd even decided I 100% was ready to sell. lol. The new owner loves it to death though and calls me every now and then to tell me how much he loves driving it the bugger!!! I miss the car, but knowing that Glenn enjoys it so much does give me satisfaction. The trust piping kit is around $1000 from memory. I have another one here at home for my other 32 GTR and I really like it. It transforms the look of the engine bay and I'm sure it can't hurt flow either. The kit to suit Z32s is good as it includes the harnesses and adapters basically everything you need. HKS make a similar kit too and some prefer the look of that one (I prefer the trust look but it's pretty subjective!). I'm pretty sure they refitted the engine with the turbos on, but I can check my pics. They have done it hundreds of times and use a little balance bar thing on the engine crane which I'm sure helps too.

My favourite combo of bits for what you want is as follows: engine, either the 2.8 or 2.6 with the usual mods. head with squish zones removed on one side, and inlet and exhaust ported and port matched cams around 270-280 duration and around 10mm lift valve springs to suit ARC intercooler (no need for the twin entry really, but ARC coolers are a good choice) tomei exhaust manifolds (or standard ones are good too, but I really like the tomei ones, they are a great design, use appropriate thickness and grade of steel and I had good results with them) tomei dumps (much better than the HKS ones) HKS front pipes (the new ones that are twin 70mm and welded on the inside) ARC radiator (or koyo are quite nice too, no need to go too thick as the ARC intercooler allows lots of airflow through to the radiator) Greddy oil cooler with remote filter mount (get the duct mounted kit not the radiator mounted type, and the remote filter mount gives you easy options for oil pressure and temp senders) Sard 700cc injectors (good size for what you need without going too big) nismo fuel pump (and if track use consider a surge tank too, Sard ones are very nice, make sure you do a direct feed of power to the fuel pump too) nismo engine and box mounts for ecu I would go with power FC with nismo airflow meters, or go power FC DJETRO if you prefer to run map sensors I would also get a full hard pipe kit, either Greddy or HKS (I prefer Greddy but there is much of a muchness between them, more a matter of personal preference) full kit means everything from the airfilters to the plenum good idea to use a sard or trust fuel rail as well as you can run a feed into each end and a regulator off the middle Trust sump extension is a must (or hi octane sump is a good option too) jun oil pump is a good idea providing you do the enlarged sump option mines cam cover baffles and a good catch tank set-up are needed too nismo super coppermix clutch is a great choice Turbos the HKS 2530s will be a good choice and easily get you into the high 300rwkw or even low 400rwkw range and still be fairly streetable. exhuast is a matter of personal preference, but at least 80mm pipe diamter and really 90mm would be preferable. For track use the stock 18X9 inch wheels are good or some 18X10s even better. Look to run some upgraded brakes too, something like some AP 6 pots with 350mm rotors up front is a good start and lots of available pad types Also consider putting a 1-way or 1.5way LSD in the front (stock diff is open) and the rear diff can be upgraded too either with clutch pack upgrade for the stock 2 way, or just a new centre I had a car with a pretty similar recipe to this engine wise and it was awesome fun to drive and bullshit fast on the street, but running smaller HKS GT-SS turbos. it's now putting out mid 300rwkw with about 20psi boost. and does it with ease. My current 32's recipe is pretty similar too and about to be put back together. It wont be cheap, but all these parts are proven performers and you will end up with a great result. enjoy.

Still got most of this stuff. completely forgot I had it till I tripped over the box. . so to sumarise. 1 X Brand new R34 GTR N1 Nur Valve springs $250 for full in and ex set. 2 X Brand new R34 GTR N1 Nur Cams (in and ex). these can be cheaply reground into whatever you want and if going regrind it's good to start with brand new camshafts. note, to use on 32 or 33 I believe you need a 34 type CAS or some modding. check with your trusty mechanic. $250 per pair 2 X Brand new genuine Nissan RB timing belts, suit RB20, RB25 and RB26. perfect if you are nearing the 100,000km mark, or a good time to swap if you are fitting adjustable cam gears. these are top quality. $80 each. that is a bargain! I have moved house now guys and this gear is clogging up the joint. do me a favour and buy something.

yep, no need for c-spanners. the adjustment is just as you outlined. sounds like the damper adjustment is broken though, no way to tell what it's set at either.

john at unique should be able to tell you, they built the engine flor blitzxtr.

both my 32 GTRs have done it. one didn't do it for years, maybe 2 or 3 years with the PFC fitted. then out of the blue it started. not very often though, and it's not very bad, just a minor anoyance. the other GTR had big $ engine, turbos, cams, AFMS, the full monty and it did it too. the PFC in the first one I bought used (but 8.04a) the other one I bought brand new also 8.04a. I must confess I've done bugger all to fix it. but the first car I mentioned is about to get new AFMs, new injectors and brand new engine, and new coil pack harness and new grounding kit so hopefully it disapears.

I'm up for it big buddy. call me cole trickle...

I will keep an eye out at auctions. they are no where near as rare in japan as they are here. I've seen quite a few come up over the years and that was without actually looking for any! you can also get a late model STI Type C or RA or whatever pretty damn cheap to import for race use.

I would really only consider a jun/tomei/etc pump if you have an enlarged sump. you do have the oil return whcih helps but those pumps can shift a huge amount of oil at high (track) RPM.

the largest I've been able to get are the HKS front pipes (don't buy secnd hand ones though as they updated their design a year or so ago). They are just over 70mm twin pipe into 85mm single. most GTR front pipes are 60 or 65mm twins into 70 or 80mm single. plus the HKS pipes are welded to the flanges on the inside of the pipes which gives no lip and a nice smooth transition from flange into pipe, good for flow. they are the best match I've found for the tomei dumps.

now you know why they call it a 'flex' plate. ask them if they can make a 'rigid' plate next time! lol.

TAU = japanese car exporter. some widely differing opinions on the quality of the cars they sell. they wholesale to a lot of caryards and importers in aus. you can certainly pick up a 22B in japan quite cheaply, no need to buy it off TAU either.

he he, thanks all you guys. you have cheered me up after a shocker of a day today looks like I may have a buyer too.

nice one. that is some serious powa! must be great fun too.

yeah I made them remove and replace mine, but my advice is if your seals are fine then just leave them in and get them to back mask it properly. mine went in an out 'ok' but I think it's far better to just leave them in if they aren't old and crusty.

LOL, unless you have centre lock hubs mate, no chance. even out old 996 cup car has centre lock 18inch BBS wheels. you could fit the fronts off a porsche cup car all round on your GTR but in my experience the rears are too wide for a 32, could be ok on 33 or 34 though. the mini challenge don't run slicks, they use R comps.... not sure why you'd want to buy porsche size/offset/PCD wheels to put on a GTR anywy though. what is wrong with the 1million different types of wheels available for GTRs? we are blessed with so much choice of wheels made specifically to suit the car, there is no need to tax them from other cars.

they may not lend you the car, but kindly tell me where you can rent an R35 for $350 per day as I'll rent it next time i'm in tokyo, hey if you're there I'll even give you a lift somewhere.

haha, can't argue with that mate. Like I said I think in aus at least I am massively outvoted on the colour choice but surely there is another beer baron out there who needs a silver R34. come on! leave those handsome devils in their bayside blue GTRs in your wake! a few little carbon pieces really works with the silver. make my finances liquid again!

the clutch packs upgrade are for the mechanical type LSDs as found in 32 GTR not the A-LSD you have. yours may have clutch packs inside (i'm not 100% sure) but what it has is a friction fluid and a pump to adjust the fluid pressure, that's what makes it 'lock'. I don't think the nismo clutch pack upgrade will work in the A-LSD. often the problem is maybe the fluid needs changing, or the pump is worn out, or something else in the diff is worn out. I've never been a fan of the active LSD. too unpredictable, the last thing you want in a diff is it deciding to lock or unlock at various times, you just want it to operate the same way every time so you know what's coming!