Beer Baron

yep, it's the same car. kranker, the boys will confirm but I believe it was running sunoco fuel. which it turns out may not have been a benefit as it tends to go off once the drum is cracked open. you can visibly see, smell and feel the stuff is different after a while sitting.

muhahahaha. it's made my day too, troy. and the best bit is it gave webbo a point! yay. go webber. I can't believe cuntalinen farked webbers day like that. heiki has the car speed to come back through the field easily, webber does not. so it realyl farked him. webber was on target for 4th, 5th or 6th easily and heiki screwed him badly. spewing that kimi dropped it at the end. lousie dropped it too, twice in fact but was fortunate enough not to get into a wall in either of those incidents. and this win just saw his large head grow larger. how about nick the gypsie sneaking his way into 3rd. I'm surprised more of them didn't stop for wets or inters, but I know it was a tough call with 2 laps to go. but you consider 30secs for pit stop, vs 30secs a lap faster for 2 laps is a no brainer to me. it was a wuvewy stwategy nickowaus. haha, I still can't believe lousie got his win taken off him. there truly is a god! hehe.

you are spot on mate. and yes it is legit. and yes to the best of my knowledge it is/was the first. and the plates will give you a big clue as to who complied it.

it's all explained in the manual that comes with it. if you don't have that, google it, it can be downloaded online.

well done guys. excellent result in some serious company. they must be over the moon.

well mark and russ's 32 GTR runs 9.78 @143mph with in Russ's own words: " GCG garret's equivelant to 2530's 2.6 ltr with tomie crank, gt block, cleaned up standard rb26 exhaust manifolds, 6 throttle hypertune plenum ppg dog box full exhaust (wasnt even running the side pipe)" it has other good gear too, like cams, dry sump set-up etc. but you get the basic idea. there is no reason you could not do a similar set-up in your car. no need for 2.8 or big high mount to run a 9. they did if comfortably without those things. and it's not even a drag car. primarily built for motokhana type stuff and circuit racing.

depends on what car. to do it completely on a 32 is a fair bit of work.

only 1 in a million would get that joke. we call it the Dennis Miller ratio...

yeah he thrashes the hell out of it all right. right hand left hand, he's an animal. don't know if I'd call it a machine though, more like a little pistola.... usual suspect: for the defi's you don't need anything except the guage, and 1 controller. every guage comes with the sensor you need and the wiring you need. this was the temp mounting. it's a bit average but was good enough for a while. I have a better set-up now, but not pics handy. the big shift light type thing is the oil pres warning light, set so it shines straight into my face! gauges are oil pres, oil temp, boost, fuel pres.

GTR diff is a good option for street use. they are a mechanical 2 way LSD standard and are tough as all buggery. the $200 clutch upgrade from nismo turns them into what is basically a nismo mech diff. plus the GTR rear end is better too (bigger axles, alloy hubs). be aware if you do the complete GTR rear end that rear GTR lower shock mounts are different than the 32 GTST type. (GTR shocks have fork, vs eye for GTST). aftermarket centre into your current diff is the easiest option. GTR diff and rear end is the more compelte option. up to you.

going good mate. yes got my fancy engine sitting in the garage. ARC cooler and nismo AFMS and a few other bits arrived this week so I've nearly got everything I need to bolt the whole show together. can't wait. I've been playing with the silvia, the RX7, the 34 in the meantime but now I think it's time to get back to the main game and do something with the 32.

heat is your friend. get out the oxy torch if you have acess to one and heat up the area around the plug. also make sure you are using the right tool. a half inch drive is not quite right, they are a metric square drive. you can buy the proper square drive tool for them and it works much better. and once out you can replace it with a drain plug that has a bolt head on it. also, make sure you can open the filler plug first. nothing worse than undoing the drain, then being unable to drive the car anyway cause the filler can't be opened. you can also get the small cans of freeze spray (i assume liquid nitrogen in a can) to try and cool the plug. not sure how effective they are though as I've never tried one.

and ps, I am so very tempted to buy it! good price for a full Djetro set-up, I just don't know if it's what I want.

trust me there is no problem with revs in the HKS 2.8s I have witnesssed in japan. and been in. they all revv'd very nicely. RB30s yes, HKS RB28 still retains almost all of that nice revvy nature of the 26.

good stuff. what type of intake hard pipes were you using?

there is one thing I find interesting. webber always seems to be up amongst the top few drivers in the apex speed measurements they show from time to time. what this tells me is the RBR is underpowered. often guys with underpowered cars can carry more corner speed, yet the guys with more power pull more speed down the straight, then stand on the brakes, end up with slower apex speed but can stomp on the gas again at corner exit and romp away to a faster overall lap. anyway I'm not holding out too much hope for RBRs end of season results.

no it wont suit a GTST, and especially not an auto. there is no power FC suitable for any skyline auto.

the factory gauge is rubbish. it's an idiot gauge. it's very slow to react (so as not to alarm the average joe) and not very accurate either. if you install a proper gauge you will be shocked at how rapidly oil pressure varies with revs (as it should since the pump speed is directly related to engine RPM). it moves about the same speed as your tacho! if you don't want gauges the warning light is an option, or some other kind of data logging, but the simplest solution I found was just fit a proper oil pressure guage.

type of alloy and finish of the gear not suitable for use.

new one: old one:

if they are new, they will almost definately be the new versions. they haven't made the old type ones for probably 3 years now.

the best 2.8 imo is the HKS step 3. but it's pretty exy. second to that would be the tomei with cooling channel pistons, then after that HKS step2, then the step 1 HKS and the regular tomei are about even. a properly built HKS Step 3 kit will still give you plenty of revs.

personally I would never put the cheap ones on an RB26 of mine. I have used trust (probably my top choice), HKS (the mk II ones), and just put tomei on the current engine (as I have tomei cams I thought I'd match). All of those have performed well. The other 'ok' choice is standard gears modified with a new centre. if it is done well they should be just as reliable as standard gears (which are of course very reliable). It's a good choice as you still have the strong stock gear face, just an adjustable centre. the cheap alloy gears in my book are a no no.

personally I would go the trust kit (and I have, twice!). I think I just like the more artistic shape of it. I had it on my old 32 and just bought it for this one i'm building too. it's a nice kit.

troy, can you remember if the biots i bought for marcus were curved vane? they were certainly sexy and exy enough. lol.