Beer Baron

I haven't seen any 26 heads done CNC here (or in japan for that matter) but I have seen other types of heads done and the result is pretty good. I'd probably still want it hand finished, but the CNC would save heaps of time and get you 95% of the way there for sure. the only question is how good the head was they wrote the program from. if it's good then for sure CNC it, but getting a good head job in japan is not unfeasibly expensive if you know the right people. lol. the head you posted looks pretty good to my (amatuer) eye. the only things I would look at closely (and it's had to tell just in pictures) is the transition bit from where the squish pads used to be into the bowl. looks like some high spots there (like maybe needs a few thou more taken out). the photo quality is better than mine though... hehe.

the strange thing is you would think being 6'2" would disuade the much smaller japanese gentleman from pushing me too much, but I have learnt that trying to come between a japanese man with a camera, and something worth shooting is like trying to stop a shinkansen with your hand as it heads into a tunnel. you have a high chance of getting knocked down.

lol, I don't mind. I know I'm all that. and you are right. I look like a bloodnut in those pics. it's that late afternoon fuji sun that does it. I'm not a ginger ninja. I swear. personally I think I blend in fairly well. I even dutifully stood my ground to get a good possie for like 20 min before it rolled out!

lots of parts in a skyline are made by mitsubishi. like alternator etc.

sorry, don't have any really decent shots of it. when I was there it was not finished, and my friend took the rest of the pics after it was done and they are not so hot. probably the best one is the third pic. but here is one more. they are substaintialy larger now. I have a pic somewhere before they started with the scribe lines around the exhaust ports and you can see how far out they are now. found it. here is the exhaust ports 'before' pic. compression ratio is a combo of things. it gets a bit too detailed for my simple brain, but the deck height obviously a big one, using small gasket also (1.2mm) and pistons all play their part. I'm pretty confident it will be spot on for what I need. they are very good.

lol, yeah engine will be lightweight now with all that material removed. have a look at how straight the throats are now into the chamber. plus of course usual stuff like lumps, casting marks removed. you can see the difference in the shape of the bowl too. it's probably what I'd call a step 3 head. step 1 is clean up and a light port. step 2 is open out the ports much more, knife edge etc. step 3 is as above but with squish mod, cams, valve springs, maybe larger valves, open up the oil returns etc. . after that all you are left with is a full race head which is a whole new level. exotic valves and guides, big cams, big lift, squish removal, water gallery mods etc. basically the full monty. the head is really the difference between good engine and bad engine. anyone competent can build a bottom end (check clearances, balance components and assemble), but to get a head spot on takes lots of experience, a little bit of talent and lots of time.

you can see how much different the combustion chambers are before and after. and a bit OT, but man your silvia has me sorely tempted....

yeah it's a pretty hairy question. squish or no squish? tuners I have spoken to in japan, and guys that have done it tell me this: for street use only and small turbos leave it alone. for small-ish turbos, and small-ish cams mainly street use but with some circuit running remove squish zone on one side only (exhaust side). this is the compromise set-up for guys running in the 500-650hp range that still want something cooking down low. mainly good gains come with the ability to run more boost safely, and more timing while you're at it. for a car that is mainly circuit or drug use remove squish zone both sides. this will definitely cost response, but you can balance that against more boost, more timing, less rebuilds! this is what the majority of japanese tuners I've been able to ask have told (and shown me). and serious guys here in aus that are willing to share tell me pretty much the same thing. that for big power, removing squish zone allows more detonation threshold so you can sail a little closer to the wind tune wise (well boost and timing). my new engine will be around the 600hp mark. and it fits nicely into the middle category. and has squish pads removed on one side. pics ahoy. it's the work of an RB Zen master. with nearly 20 years building RB26s from mild street cars, to 1200ps+. (note: head not compeltely finished in these pics, but pretty close to it) the head in it's earlier stages:

yeah good dinner. nice to see most of the old crew together, and some new faces come too which is what it's about. and for sure, charlie didn't miss a trick. he tucked into some nice looking chicken and even had desert the smart arse. and merlin, need to do something with the exhaust on the beemer mate. you know I'm a closet german, and I love the BMW 6 too, but it needs some kind of hard core straight through system to let that thing really scream.

yeah inner wheel rim diameter is key. it varies more than you could imagine with different brand wheels in the same 'size'. troy and I have had this discussion many times, and I've measured a few sets of 17X9s I have. many sort of step down in the center, some are very flat. some rims just go on one sort of angle down from one side to the other (thus you have big step on one side, small step on the other). car wheels are a far more complex shape than you'd think. but I have generally found, the good, japanese forged wheels have very thin rims, and very good internal diameter.

actually you can see it in their diagram. it's just the shape of the underside of the pitson that I guess is supposed to catch oil from the (standard) oil squirters and kind of swirl it around the piston. if you are still worried, just put up the part number that was on your piston kit and I can check it against their goods master at home. edit: look inside the piston, you can see like a little 'shelf' or 'channel' inside. that's the cooling channel.

well there is a channel between the top ring lands and the first oil control ring lands so I would say that's it. the little holes in the side of the piston on the bottom ring land are also to expell oil but they all have that.

I'll pick you up mate no prob. just give me a buzz when you're ready. 132 522.

well nothing wrong with newcastle per se. apart from the fact that it's 2 hours north of sydney.

I like to be thanked, but if you really want to thank the forum, make a donation. even a small one helps.

hardcore!!!

bit hard to tell from the pics how deep the gouges actually are, but for starters you can remove the exhaust side squish pads and if it's going to be a big power engine remove the inlet side too. that has now solved most of your damage. the damage in middle should be able to be ported out, and of course do other cylinders to match and have them all CC'd. but bear in mind another head can be bought fairly cheaply, so if you don't want a modded head, just a stocky then I'd just buy another head.

lol, 2000 units my bottom. I would say at least half of all R34 GTRs I have ever seen (and I've seen plenty go through auctions) were V-Spec, or V-Spec II or V-Spec II NUR etc. same goes for R33s, I would as many V-specs as non-vspecs.

thanks mate, actually I ordered San Andreas from there when it was realsed a few years back on PS2. I have already ordered one here from EB, but I think I might cancel it and order the NZ one.

d'oh! you could have at least gone all out and edited my actual post too! I mean what good is admin power if you don't use it for evil? I expected more from you nick. tut tut.

yep, the ol afm bolted to tower with once piece of vacuum hose connecting it up, if the perfect example of why rules need to be written very carefully. it complied perfectly. it had the factory afm. and it was connected to the intake. ol freddy gibson certainly was a crafty devil. John, i have heard a lot about the hidden boost control on the GMS R32s also. I believe it was either connected to the intermittent wiper adjustment dial or the instrument dimmer switch. something like that (that's if it even existed, I don't know for sure).

yep, I'm in 100%, plane has left and I aint on it! now, 2 important matters are still un resolved. 1. is merli going to drag his euro trash into mah house? or will he roll up in something with style, class and pedigree? 2. who is providing the beer for us all?! ps. nice sig. pps. we both know I will happily trade my collection of parts known as a GTR for your M3 any day of the week, even if the soft top does show off my bald patch

yeah I should know that by now. Can you build up a nice GTR or RX7 for me. Cause right now I feel like I'm half way through a b-man myself. got lots of shit here for my GTR but no real enthusiasm to go with it at the moment. what the hell is the matter with me?!

questions answered.

yeah I agree. no one really wants to see anyone crippled over a car theft, even as frustrating and dissapointing as it is.