Beer Baron

well basically the further out you go the bigger the problem. if you started with your stock 17X7 +38s or whatever they are. and you go to 19X11 +20 off the top of my head that's about 65mm further out. plus they are much heavier (even if the rims are lightweight there is no such thing as a light weight 19inch tyre) so yeah it will be putting more strain on suspension and bearings. but a wheel in that size is all about looks anyway as they would be useless from a performance point of view so I wouldn't worry about it too much. probably the only consequence you will find is that you flog out wheel bearings much faster than normal.

lol, ok my bad. the top wastegate hose needs a pressure feed from somewhere after the turbos compressor outlet. the other one is a vent. the charcol canister I'm not sure.

your first problem is that it's a blow off valve, not a wastegate...

not true. basically the further out from the hub the wheel centreline is the more strain is put on the hubs, suspension and most of all the wheel bearings.

well done lowndes. top drive. shame about skaife. the safety car timing was all wrong for him today and it seems he overcooked it a bit at the end. seton finished in 11th and was looking pretty handy towards the end. nice one seto.

pics added.

top idea paul. and it should be pretty effective. oh, and pm me your address so I can post that diff pack for you russ, I will talk with you during the week. it's looking more possible by the day

also, it looks like I may be able to get a bit of time off early december and may crash this party in tsukuba. I'd love to see you guys turn a few laps and share a few beers after too. nismo festival the week before would be nice too as that's one thing I haven't done in japan.

the only thing is how do you start the car? when it's off there is 0 pressure. actually I guess you just have to wait for it to build a bit of pressure on the starter then the switch will deactivate. I would like to see a kit set to cut ign and fuel at say 1bar and just have a rocker switch in cabin (preferably sprung so you have to hold it down) that you hit to enable starting.

no worries. I may be able to help organise some freight to melbourne, but either way it will have to be picked up from here.

well I can't say for sure but HKS turbos come with another restrictor in the oil feeds banjo bolt.

well for 2 weeks I would say more like: flights $1800 accom $2500 travel insurance free if you pay with credit card or about $100 or so I guess spending money $3000 is ok, but if you want to be able to do and buy whatever you want make it $5000

well done to winterbottom. skaifeys lap gave me goose bumps and I didn't think it could be beaten, but winter got in there with another 10th from somewhere. top work.

yes it's cheap considering it's pretty much a bolt on jobbie for whatever block you have. no throttle bodies mate. basically nothing attached to the head except for what's listed about. my advice would be either pick-up some GTR intake gear which is not too bad around $400 or so by the time you get it all. Lucky lots of big HP GTRs run aftermarket plenums and single throttles so it's not too hard to find.

Hi guys, I'm selling my RB26 head. It was on my friends car in japan. It was removed as he fitted a brand new nissan crate motor so he got the head whipped off the old donk and sent it to me. It was inspected at prime garage before being sent and it is in fine condition. I'm asking $1000 for it. What you get for that: RB26 head ready to bolt on to the block of your choice. it's complete with: rocker covers timing belt cover cams cam gears valves valve springs retainers lifters etc. basically, head, covers, full valve train. no ancillaries, no coil packs etc. I will take some pics tomorrow, but it's nicely gift-wrapped in plastic and I don't want to open it up but I'll do my best. This would be perfect for someone building a 30DET. get 30 bottom end. slap on this head. bolt on a turbo kit, plenum etc and bob's your uncle. Pics: I'm not willing to unwrap it for better pics as it's nicely wrapped right now. Customs cut a few holes to peak in but that's it.

*sniff. I need more time

again, the workshop has very little control over the time frame. my current car again has taken under a week for all work and inspections to be performed, but DOTARS have advised that their processing time is approx 3 weeks by the time we get the sticker and there is nothing you can do about that.

I will be happy even if he just gets the one win. bloody fuji should have been it

well what is on my policy is between me and my insurance company. the only advice I can give you is: be honest with the insurer listen to their advice don't lie! insurance companies will of course look for any legal way to refuse a claim. but they are not all monsters. I mean if you accidentally rear end someone I doubt they would refuse your claim because you had an aftermarket gear knob which did not display the gear pattern (required by law). but I would ensure that any mods that are not road legal are still roadworthy (ie safe). but I can't stress enough that this is one topic where other peoples advice and experience is no good to you. all that matters is your case, and what your insurance companies rules are. so take their advice.

thanks for the kinds words, but not more posts please. this isn't a suspension discussion thread, just me trying to sell my Tein RAs thread.

here's mine. using twin HP LP2065s

have a look at say a nismo radiator. then have a look at a cooling pro radiator and you can judge for yourself how the quality compares. I'm not sure what you are expecting though considering a good japanese ARC or Nismo radiator is tripple the price. i mean japanese companies are not all money hungry rip off merchants. their products cost what they do because they invest money in research and development, quality staff training and high salaries, strict quality control standards, latest technology equipment and high quality base materials so the products you get are very good.

my advice is don't lie to your insurance company. and don't ask for advice on how to do it on forums. talk to the company, ask them the questions. after all they decide whether or not to pay your claim, not some dude on a forum. so who's advice do you think is more important?

and yes I'm just breakin ya balls a bit

so rezz, when will you be sending out appologies to all the people you shot down for calling it an R35? teehee.