GTRPSI
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Everything posted by GTRPSI
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Check you cams are correctly timed before going further in case your a tooth off somewhere. Check your valve clearances while your there. It could just be something very basic that was missed on assembly causing it. All you need to cause this if for a cam to be out a tooth or for a valve shim to have popped out of place.
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Usually the gap faces the intake, ground strap between the 2 exhaust valves when indexing plugs on quad valve heads. Im surprised nobody metioned sidegapping the plugs yet.
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4 Stud wheels? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32T-R33-GTS-4-4WD-Four-Stud-FRONT-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA7691-/400686283263?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4ac379ff http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32T-R33-GTS-4-4WD-Four-Stud-REAR-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA7692-/131153912085?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8961e115
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How do you select reverse in them? Never thought about it till now..... -
I buy them in bulk from the states, i am about to place a order on another batch end of this month. You will need to adjust the fitment to your crank and rods, you need 1mm minimum space from the crank and rods to the plate and a bit extra to the thrust direction of the crank. Took me a few evenings of grinding to shape to find what worked best for my application, the picture above is new as they arrive before shaping to fit.
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Best to contact Nitto directly. If your in Melbourne i personally know a Nitto agent here who does good prices on them.
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Spring rates?
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Nitto is the way i went, i have a pic below, i also ceramic coated the pistons to keep the heat off them.
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From the album: engine build
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The crank scraper im talking about is a aftermarket mod, not the factory windage trays. Took me about 3-4 days of mucking around to bring it where i wanted it.
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From the album: engine build
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Have sent you a PM....
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I avoided it as the blocks a bit thinner than the RB26 ones there. I ceramic coated the pistons and used Nitto rods with the built in oiling squirter holes. And a handfull of other oiling mods to keep the oil down low like crack scraper, 26 windage trays on the 30 girdle etc....
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I have a power FC txt me on 0411184963
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Just identify the type of ARP rod bolt series and diameter. ARP have general fastener specs for their rod bolts based on it.
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PCD114 is a 114mm circle diameter...... PCD means Pitch circle Diameter. Look below. http://whichwheelsfit.com/index.php/pcd-explained
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We are agents of RDA/EBC pads so we supplied him with the Yellow Stuff pads, customer got the AP Racing rotors and hats as a kit from O/S, he had a mate fit it all up for him.
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The engine actualy twists the opposite direction to how the crank spins (anti clockwise) Take the strut brace off, problem solved. Or take it off and give it a bend in the middle, its not doing much anyway, morso if you want it there for looks.
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E85 or? What plugs and heat range are you running? Was it OK for a while and just started or has it been happing from the start? Have you checked the Spitfires for arcing?
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Greddy Plenum Spacer Info (Torque/midrange)
GTRPSI replied to skylineking's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
In a nut shell.....generally speaking..... The rule is longer ports are better for bottom end range, shorter ports for top end range. The opposite goes for runner diameter, smaller dia runners for bottom end, larger dia runners for top end. So something for pulling down low would have long narrow runners, a screaming high rpm big power engine build would have short large diameter runners. -
Hes certainly not being conservative. Cams were chosen by the engine builder and cam manufacturer based on his Nitto 2.8 stroker and planned use, now with the 3.2 its changed the game, cams will be simple enough to swap over when the time is right should he want more bottom end. Remember he built it one way, then sold the bottom end to go 3.2 so some chages to the head may be needed.
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We just had a customer replace his R35 rotors with AP Racing ones and EBC Yellow stuff pads (modded with power upgrades) and no noise issues city driving, pulls up like crazy. With new cars, remember it takes a bit of time to bed in the pads to the rotors, first few thousand may be noisy but they should settle in. A few high speed stops should take care of them.
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Thats what always had me wondering why people were putting a new sensor on the cam, factory one already has it for cam position phasing, just dont use the signal from the 360 outer slots and run a wire like you did from the crank trigger. Makes life so much simpler.
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I agree, mod a stock CAS wheel, much less mucking around IMHO.
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My 94 R32 Gt-R Build Diary
GTRPSI replied to Tyranus's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Any news Sedat? Hows it coming along? Or are Brendan and Barry still swearing at what i gave you?
