sewid

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/6502219.stm Cliffs: Nova teacher murdered by Japanese guy she was teaching English too. He was not a Nova student though this was some kind of private lessons she had arranged. The guys is still on the loose!

Also the V-Spec II suspension is stiffer than the V-Spec and M-Spec suspension. The M-Spec having probably the best suspension for street out of all the GTR's. M-Spec also obviously has the exclusive colors and the leather interior making it overall the best pick of the bunch. Unforuntately for us it also commands a huge premium at auction in Japan . Usually over the 4.5million yen mark. The best value if you're after a GTR is a V-Spec. The standard GTR's lack the agressive look of the V-Spec since they lack the second front lip. The missing rear diffuser kinda sucks too as they look much tougher from behind with it. V-Spec II would be the next best in terms of value. You get a newer car but you pay a decent amount more for the privilege.

V-Spec II bonnet is carbon fibre with the NACA duct. V-Spec, and M-Spec bonnet is aluminium. Series II BNR34 pedals are aluminium on rubber not stainless steel. There are more differences as well regarding a couple of cost cutting decisions Nissan made when it came time for the series II BNR34. For example they deleted the rear wiper plastic under-cover in the series II, the radiator end tanks are plastic in the series II as well. These kind of things are in keeping with Nissan's usual strategy of doing things cheaper later in a models lifecycle to fit improvements in such as the carbon fibre bonnet and slightly different rear rotors.

PowerFC is great because you have a big choice of where you can go to get it tuned. F-Con is limited in choice of tuner for now. But yeah a properly installed set of R34 GTR turbos are a popular choice amongst a certain group of people who certainly know what they're doing.

They fit R33 and R34 as well. R34 has a slightly different standard engine mount design to make it easier to work with them but both types fit. Nismo engine mounts for BNR34 are the same as these.

The problem is mate that the condition is very poor and that is going to put your average joe buyer off because they have to stuff around with rim repairs etc. If you want them gone in a hurry in that condition you might want to revise the price. I'm sure eventually you can sell them but as far as unknown reasons go - i think the reasons are quite clear.

That certainly was a waste of time and money considering it is perfectly legal to drive your unregistered car to the AUVIS which is what most people do. Ah well next time! And yeah although it is legal I question how smart it is considering you are uninsured on the drive there and back. At least your way was relatively risk free.

Visit www.justjap.com and email them an enquiry. I think they might still have ECR33 powerFC's and they deliver internationally.

Sounds like your PowerFC is running a default map or is incorrectly tuned or has forgotten it's map. This can happen if it's a new PowerFC, a second hand PowerFC from another car or if its broken. Either way if the knock sensors are maxing out the bar graph you are minutes away from popping your motor if you keep driving it like that. You've probably already done considerable damage. You need to stop driving it and take it to someone who knows what they're doing pronto. The knock reading on the PowerFC is displaying what the knock sensors in your engine detect. . Knock, also called pinging or pre-ignition and is generally the result of the air-fuel mixture igniting or exploding prematurely. This is obviously going to cause problems in the cylinder if the crank wants to push the piston up but the igniting/exploding and thus expanding air-fuel mixture wants to push the piston down. Results - blown rings, pitted pistons, bent rods, engine damage, none of these are good. If you really are seeing the engine light flash and the knock reading go way up you really need to stop driving it. Higher octane fuel or octane boost is not going to solve your problem AT ALL.

Yes you have to pay CTP it's about 20 - 35 dollars on top of the UVP.

Personally I gap my plugs to 0.8mm but I admit i feel a little stupid doing it. Particularly when it says not to gap iridium plugs at all ever since you probably destroy them quite easily if you get it even slightly wrong. No problems so far running about 18psi. I am now running new coils so i'd probably at least try standard gap for my next set of plugs.

I think you're all right. Let's have a cup of tea.

I think it's ok to put a carboard plate saying "GET OUT OF MY WAY IM DRUNK" on though as this would be helpful for pedestrians if in fact you were drunk.

I am now ashamed to own a Yaris....

Also - I can't find the requirement to use a cardboard license plate in any regulation current or repealed... lol

razor already posted this same info but most people just post what their opinion is without regard to fact. The RTA is run by humans and the police force are in general human. While you may think each individual answering phones at the RTA knows all the rules you may find that they don't and just tell you what their opinion is. This is why you all say you get 3 different answers each time you call. The actual current NSW regulations are pretty clear however. From http://www.legistlation.nsw.gov.au/ : This information is on the RTA website as well. Going back several years I do not believe it has ever been a requirement to have a letter of intent according to NSW road regulations. If someone can produce the law please correct me.

Sell it and buy a standard one.

Also apparantly NISMO made a press release to say that only 17 NISMO Z-Tunes were built for customers in the end for a total of 19 Z-Tunes globally. 2 Prototypes and 17 customer cars.

These are very cheap and common in any asian grocery. There are also wasabi tempura nori chips which are great but cost too much in australian shops.

To say the Z-Tune is based on the V-Spec II is incorrect. The Z-tune could be built on any GTR with low KM's provided it met with Nismo's quality control. I believe the Z-tune in Australia was originally a Bayside blue 1999 model V-Spec GTR. Also it is pointless to count how many R-Tune's there are because tomorrow there might be another one. Anyone can get the R-tune treatment done. On another topic. Here's a brochure for the Midnight Purple II GTRs: There was another colour (Midnight Purple Pearl III) which was later produced for the V-Spec II but not sure if that was a limited run.

Nope. Not without more work than its worth. LS1 in an R32 GTS-T RWD would be great though.

This particular car is my favourite R33 GTR in Sydney and has been since I first saw it a few years back. I have been in this car and looked over it in detail many times and you will not find another R33 this perfect. Looked after like a newborn by the last two owners which is what you want when you're buying a car like this. Awesome car and sorry to see you selling it Kabab!

Justjap have black silicon hoses and reducers etc. They got a decent amount recently if I recall. Oops nevermind.. Just read you had already tried them.