sewid

- AFMs will be maxed out before you go past 315kw. - It is not guaranteed but it is possible that your coils will fail immediately or after running a short time over 300kw So in my opinion add splitfires and Nismo AFMs to your list. Alternatively you can go Z32+Adapters AFMs but you'll need to set the intake piping up to suit the larger diameter AFM bodies. As for the turbos - GT-RS's all the way.

Your answer is simple then. Get the GTR. It is a far superior car and you can make 250rwkw without spending much extra. In fact you can pickup one already making that for not much more than a stock one. And spend $0 on body kit and instead get a nice set of Japanese lightweight wheels with the correct offset and your done in the looks dept.

Sounds right to me then.

BNR34 Side Airbag equipped seat:

The dealer sat nav/tv option replaced the guage cluster with a popup screen right?

I have never seen these on an R34 GT-T. They were a very uncommon option on the GTR. They attach to the seat its pretty obvious if you have them there is a large pod on the side of the seat. On the GT-T, not so sure...

On a R33 you should do the dumps and front pipes in my opinion. They are sorta narrow cast dumps. On the R32 they were worse. On the R34 they are stainless and pretty great from the factory. You could source some second hand 34 dumps if you are strapped for cash. If you are upgrading turbos then yes these are in the 'need' basket unfortunately. The stockers will fit on but you're selling the turbos short by leaving the stock items there. FYI, I also have GT-SS's. I chose that turbo for almost the same reason you are thinking of changing turbos. I was afraid while pushing my car that the standard turbos may give way one day and take the engine down with them. Now there's a million ways to skin this particular cat and it's pretty personal which route you take. I'm just going to vouch for the GT-SS's as a great upgrade from stock turbos when you want to make a decent amount of power without losing much of the standard response. Of course nothing is going to spool as fast as a small turbo with a ceramic exhaust wheel that's why Nissan put them in but you can get close with a well designed BB turbo like the GT-SS. Don't know about the garrets. I'm sure they're fine too. I've not driven any cars using them though so won't comment.

Firstly - You do not need to make any changes to anything after fitting an exhaust. If you upgrade the turbos: - Cam gears not necessary. - Stock boost controller not really - you probably want to get something you can tweak. EBC is a worthwhile investment. - Fuel system requires an upgrade. Injectors and pump. - You will probably be best served with a full ECU replacement on top of that - New clutch preferably something stronger than stock. - Dump and front pipe exhaust upgrade. I recommend: - Nismo 550cc injectors or SARD 600 - 700cc depending on what you want to do next. The Nismo 550cc/SARD 600cc are better if you plan to do nothing else. 700cc if you plan to go further later, eg big cams, maybe bigger turbos later on. - Nismo fuel pump. Direct fit item. More than your average Bosch in terms of cost but worth it in my opinion. - Apexi Power FC - goes without saying the easiest drop in ECU replacement with tuners everywhere. - Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch. Great clutch to use every day. The twin plate is easy to live with. Only $1800 delivered from Nengun - HKS/Tomei dumps and front pipes. Expensive but works of art. Tomei's dumps are even nicer than the HKS items but do not split wastegate exhaust from the main. Personal choice here. Even JustJap items will do the job just fine and save you money. Overall I would go the GT-SS's out of those three turbo choices for they are probably the smallest upgrade you can get and if you want the car to respond like a stock one yet produce an easy 280kw at low boost levels they're great. The N1's make more power but it doesn't sound like your after a huge amount of power.

Oh and Masa make a Z-Tune front guard copy item which kind of extends your front guard a bit. Its also FPR but I don't think it looks that great. EG: http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m33884790

Sort of... Nismo will happily sell you a front bar and a set of front guards that are identical to the Z-tune variety except that they are FPR. The Z-Tune items are carbon fibre. They are also quite pricey. I believe you can have a set of front guards for $1600 - $1700 + shipping RRP. Front bar is around the same at $1600 + shipping Those prices might be wrong as im just going from memory.

I've owned both and the R32 gts-t is a pile of poo compared to the R33 gtst. Personal opinion.

I've already ordered mine and the HKS 4.2l stroker kit.

What? Yes the R33 GTR and R34 GTR airbox can be interchanged. The snorkel is different.

These are real cars and have been around for a few years now. While this is not news it is still quite interesting stuff.

Errr.... no. They can mark your steering wheel though I suppose.

CA stands for Cats Anus. That's all I know. This came from mr Nissan himself.

In my opinion RB means nothing it is simply the engine's designation just like every other engine type posted in the second post. None of these mean anything either. Why are you searching for meaning in something trivial anyway...

I have used and recommend Jack Hillerman's in Artarmon.

You should get the GT-T. I would hate to see another GTR ruined with a horrible body kit. Woops i mean "fully sick" body kit... Seriously what do you care if the GTR is stiffer than a GT-T if you're main focus is what pieces of plastic you can glue on to a perfectly decent looking already car.

Nissan made improvements everywhere, they didn't just take an R32 stack on some weight and call it a day. The R33 has an improved chassis along with other improvements which means overall it's lap times are generally better than an R32.

If $30k was my budget I would wait patiently for a good R33 GTR to come up at private sale from someone who is in need of a quick sale. These come up every so often ranging from $25k + There was even one post the other day where someone would take "anything over $20k" as he was trading it in on a new car and that's all they would give him in trade in. Now once I had found a desperate seller I would go over the car with a find tooth comb and then be prepared to reject it and keep waiting patiently. Eventually you would find a car that, while not perfect, is probably worth spending the money on. I'm saying you might find a $30k car for $27k. Which leaves just enough for insurance. I would then probably use the time spent looking for the car to save up a bit more money for a full service.

No offense if I haven't understood your post but the GTR's AWD system is supposed to do exactly what you describe. It is not a full time AWD system. I.e. 100% RWD until circumstances require torque be applied to the front wheels. Does this help: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATTESA_E-TS

Do a search lots of people ask the same question but Piggaz has covered the main ones.

Classic. Wish I coulda come I had to entertain the inlaws to be though... nightmare of a day !

Photos arent working for me too. Looks like forum broke the photos so you might want to repost them.