sewid

You should buy standard rotors because its going to look pretty weird to have slotted rears but standard fronts. From a performance perspective it'll make as close to no difference as you can get.

The gold color is obviously vastly superior. Gold means better braking as well due to the extra goldness of gold. PS. They're the same brakes except for the bolt sizes BB mentioned.

Nismo do not sell the Z-Tune parts to non-Z-tune owners unfortunately. They will sell you a fibreglass replica part but you cannot buy the carbon fibre parts from them unless you own a Z-tune. This information comes from the manager for international sales at Nismo in Omori office.

Yeah. That's like how my GTR has 2008 GTR running gear in it because nissan were undecided about how to make cars.

yeah i eventually got a black one. then i grew bored of them.

These are sets from toy vending machines in Japan. I have a bunch of them after I spent about 1500 yen on one of the machines trying to get a R34 GTR...

I was in Shinjuku ordering Taiwanese food for my first earthquake. It was 6.5 or something and it scared the shit out of me. The epicenter was off the coast I think. It's been 2 years i cant remember the details but i remember the feeling of thinking im gonna get squashed like a bug when this building collapses very well. Im going to be in Tokyo on the 10th of Feb but im not taking my DSLR it's just too big for lots of travelling. I'll take my gf's Canon IXY 500 or whatever its called.

Well if you want my opinion coating is better than wrapping in every way except the money involved. Obviously it's cheaper to wrap but its a big pain in the ass with that fiberglass stuff getting everywhere.

Yeah R34 GTR already has great single piece stainless dumps so the Tomei one's even at $650 would be a very large waste of money. The trust one's are heavy because they're made out of a thick stainless which is a good thing. The difference in weight between a set of Trust front+dumps and your average HKS dump + front pipes has to be quite negligible. You want a lightweight dump and front pipes then you sacrifice longevity or you pay big money for titanium. I personally use Trust front+dump pipes on my 34. I actually used the ones designed for an R32 GTR which meant i had to weld an extra temp sensor bung in. They physically fit in the car just fine but cause the following problems: - Have to be extra careful when removing and refitting the engine as the pipes come close to the firewall during the procedure - Changing O2 sensors on the car is a bigger pain in the ass then ever - Air conditioning condensation rubber hose has to be removed resulting in aircon condensation dripping on your hot exhaust. Not a huge deal but strange hiss noise after a drive is weird I would also consider coating the trust pipes in ceramic to keep heat in the exhaust. This is what I plan to do as last track day this area was dangerously hot after a bunch of laps.

Well R34 GTR prices have not dropped in 3 - 4 years in Japan and it doesn't look like they're going to massively fall anytime soon. You are still looking at 4million yen base price for a good example. What has come down though is: - Import Duty - 10% vs 15% four years ago - Compliance costs - Value of the yen - Difficulty in sourcing stock parts I did the calculations and if I bought my GTR today versus 3 years ago for the exact same auction price I would have saved $13,000. Due to: - Reduction in import duty - Increase in the strength of the dollar versus the yen - Less GST to pay on the combined above - These combined causing the cost of the car to fall under the LCT threshold - All this combined causing the cost of the car to be lower for Stamp Duty purposes - Lower compliance costs due to higher availability of R34 SEVS workshops So it can be said prices have fallen. The next big fall will be if the government lowers import duty again. As for local prices. You will only get a bargain locally if someone is going to make a loss if they are desperate. Oftentimes someone will import a dud and scrape it through compliance and sell it cheap here. Is this the kind of car you want though? No.

Giving your insurance company false information is a great way to throw away your money every year.

Justjap have an immaculate factory turbo S12 in their lot right now that has to be seen to be believed. It has an original 120,000km on it or something but looks like its brand new.

4 year old video... I'm sure we've moved on from here.

They are the same intercooler kit.

I personally would not remove it but I know it is possible and doesn't adversly affect your car. You can get a temp sensor bung welded in the cat at any muffler/exhaust shop for $40 or less.

1. Get a boost guage real quick. I recommend you buy a Defi as they make amazing guages. There is a new official Defi distributor in Australia and he's got good deals. http://www.defi.com.au/ . He has a container load of Defi's on a boat right now. Alternatively go to Nengun. You need a defi turbo guage + a defi link controller v2. 2. Not everyones car ingests ceramic dust but some do and its not worth the risk. As to why RB25's dont... maybe they do but there is a significant difference in the manifold so ... dunno. 4. R34 turbos go for $750 and up depending on km's traveled, condition etc. They're fantastic turbos for running 1bar on in my opinion. Spool up faster than any aftermarket turbos and will last a long time at a moderately fun boost level. Ball bearing turbos tho so make sure you do your research in terms of restricting the oil lines when fitting any ball bearing turbo. I don't think its wise to just bolt them on without thinking about that. Those more technical than me may know better obviously. 5. I ran 1 - 1.1 bar on standard R34 GTR turbos on a standard R34 GTR motor for 6months and when i pulled the turbos off to upgrade they looked perfect. I drove it every day like that.

Haha yeah... why not Standard water pump PUMP ASSY-WATER 21010-21U26 $129.00

From what Skizo is saying it looks like his compliancer advised him one way but he pressured the compliancer to let him take the chance. Fair enough he took a chance and it was worth a shot. I highly recommend sending wrxhoon a PM as he has the best method of sorting R34 headlights. His own car and many others are proof of that. Many compliancers do what amounts to a permanant conversion which is bad and very dangerous as the halogens perform horribly in the reflector designed for xenons.

Sorry to hear you failed the RTA check. Also it's a shame you wasted 2 weeks waiting - you could have got an interim label for that 2 weeks so you could drive the car. Next time you make a booking make sure you ask for one. Also - being very nice and friendly at the RTA can make things go smoother. If everyone at your RTA has a pole shoved up their ass then find another one nearby About the tyres. You know now that you need new tyres on and you need the receipt. Of course you can keep the Japanese tyres and that's what I did just don't put them on the car until after its registered. My car arrived with brand new Bridgestone Re01's so I took those off and fitted some Nangkang $700 tyres for compliance. You do not need to "engineer" the tyres or whatever the RTA inspector says. Most tyres from Japan will be fine as is. The xenons can be dealt with as well without destroying the headlight.

If you're doing the timing belt, are you going to do the idler and the tensioner as well? The list goes on. Idler and tensioner are about $300 all up from nissan or you can go aftermarket for a lot cheaper. Part numbers and prices for those below Timing Belt-------BELT-TIMING-------------NI-13028-5L327-------$74.91 Idler-------------PULLEY ASSY-IDLER-------NI-13074-58S00-------$223.89 Tensioner---------TENSIONER ASSY-CHAIN----NI-13070-42U00-------$73.73

of course im sure it could improve in the coming weeks..... *thinking positive*

Best part of the show was the opening credits though. Nicely done skyline shots.

That's cool. I guess it's just random then. I'd say the likelyhood of getting stung is something like 80% though.

From what I've heard the RTA identity check is not really optional and everyone does it. When I registered mine after importing it I was told I needed the identity check done and that the next booking available was in 7 days. At the time if the booking cannot be made within 5 days they must by law issue you with an interim registration label so you can drive the car around until the appointment. Don't know if this law has changed but some people say they aren't getting interim labels anymore?

I just got one last week. This chair is the best thing to happen to my study since porn was invented. Shitty camera phone pic: