andy65b

and make sure the bolts holding the swaybar bushes are nipped firmly. Less than a 1/4 turn loose on my car had a knock in the front end for me.

There seems to be 2 different boost levels. RS & RX seem to be about 12psi and ARX & Axis seem to be 13psi. This may be a perceived difference or even as a result of different gauges used but they are all pretty similar on the VQ25DET. The boost pressure is measured from a line about 15cm short of the throttle body. The line is mounted straight to a boost measuring device that is connected to the ECU. The ECU controls that the boots via a solenoid mounted on the passenger side of the intake plenum. It is certainly possible to increase the boost on the car by either a manual blled valve or an EBC. The questions to consider are: are you running stock turbo? (13psi on a ceramic turbine and ball bearing core is quite reasonable boost, too much more with out changes will shorten the life of the turbo) Have you modified the turbo's oil line feed at the banjo bolt? (increase the hole to 2.5mm) Have you removed the stock dump pipe? (very restrictive and massive cat and little benifit putting in more boost with the stock dump) Have you increased the flow of the exhaust? The stock intercooler will handle the flow but will not cool multiple hard accelerations on a hot day. Hope that helps.

I can't believe you have not done this yet Rudi... Come on, it as an easy mod.

Why would you not use the factory TV antenna in the car given that there are 4 of them and they are boosted?

Not sure your weight figure is correct. An ARX is 1780kg and an RX is 1680kg. But if you want to lighten it have a look at changing Electric front seats or removing some of the electronics. There are not many other places to loose weight as the subframe and suspension are all alloy, bonnet is alloy, boot is plastic composite. On the upside, all that weight is near perfectly balanced on the chasis with 52% on the front axle and 48% on the rear. Enjoy.

I did have to replace the ignition barrel on may car as the switch was disconnecting when I drove. I used to have a few keys hanging off it so I removed some keys and had a play with the key and was able to replicae the car turniung off whilst driving.

They do have anchor points that are argueably better than the Australian standard. They are the ISO anchors at the back of the lower part of the seat behind the plastic covers. These anchor points connect directly to baby seats and hold the baby seat securely. (no stupid straps around the car) But as normal, Australian Beaurcrats know more about safety than the rest of the world and we have our own SPECIAL standard.

One day Craig MAY take his car out there......

the Car does NOT come from Japan with baby seat mounts. They need to be added here locally as part of the compiance process. There are hooks in the floor of the boot but these are for tie downs for the luggage are and are not suitable for baby mounts. There are 2 methods of putting in the baby seat mounts. They are always put in the roof above the boot and can be in either; 1) Just in front of the plastic trim at the top of the boot opening, (best method) 2) mounted through the plastic trim at the top of the boot opening, (this is where they drill through the outside of the car) The 1st method is far superior but requires them to separate the roof lining slightly to put the mounting points in.

Spotted a Silver PM35 ARX on Warringah Road near the intersection of Allambie Road. Nice stock model driven by a less than great driver.

From memory to take it back to stock you need to change; Bonnet Grill Headlights Bumper bar

I have seen some people move the DVD rom down and beside the fan lower in the dash. It is a very tight fit and difficult with the length of the wiring. If you really want to put the DVD in it is probably the best / only option.

Agree with Dunc ^. ARX It is a little confused that car. The Impul if still fitted will most likely refer to the ECU. The Impul ECU does a few special things like remove the 180km/h speed limiter, remove any boost cut and adds a bit more fuel. The Nismo S tune sticker could be Nismo springs and shocks. If they are there, the springs are red in colour. I notice there are a few things under the dash also. The car is dead easy to service your self. Have a read of some of the sticky threads about servicing. GL

DVD rom, screen and TV tuner are all related. The TV tuner signal runs through the DVD Rom and then to the Screen. The outputs from the DVD rom are not RCA or RGB so it is complicated. If you remove the DVD rom you will loose all the current functions on the pop up screen. The TV tuner has an AUX input. I would suggest you are better off connecting the DVD player via this input and finding a different mounting location for the unit. Maybe under the passenger seat.

The inner boot is an easy repair. Had mine done for $120 at Rydalmere CV workshop.

What is the idle speed? There was a factory recall on the Cam angle sensors that can cause random stalling. (basically it will shut the engine down and light up the check engine light) They put a round silver sticker on the drivers front suspension upright, near the manufature plate. Have a search for my thread about this problem. Is it possible Hills tried to reset the idle? Best bet is to visit Craig.

Here are some picks fromt the day.

Get the missus to lean out the window with a cloth!

+1 with Leaon about the turbo. If you do the Banjo mod and keep good oil in your car the stock turbo can perform very well and is hard to beat for off the line drivability.

Nice work Theo. That should helpm bring the intake temps down.

I will get some shots up tomorrow Alex.

Massive advantage. More throttle allowed below 3000rpm in 1st (where the stock ECU limits to 30% max throttle) plus better performance perameters. Last on when found sold for $1850.

LOL .... you wish

So helpful Iain..

Flux capacitor? I would be checking all the bolt tensions first.... caliper bolts etc.