Roy

By all means give the head work and cams a go, will be interesting to see if you and your tuner come up with a combination that works. Some get a setup that works and people swear by, others enjoy less sucess. Dont confuse 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders either, SR20s do seem to like cams well before RB20s http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/58229-top-rb20-club-do-you-have-over-260rwkw/page__st__1740__p__5804707__hl__rb20+260__fromsearch__1#entry5804707

Was looking at old Jordan pics, their exhaust blew into the underside of the rear diffuser in the 90s

Such an engine does not exist. You abuse an engine it will die...[end of story] No amount of oil pressure, forged internals, quality fuel, tuning and balancing will mean an engine is bullet proof. A clogged injector, lazy fuel pump, fuel pr oil surge or fouled plug or failed plug, or loose boost line, jammed wastegate will kill any engine and if you are abusing it on the track then these things happen quicker. My engine has never run E85, it is tuned for 98RON at 275rwkws, though it has run reliably at the track at 260rwkws on 100RON as the fuel gives me a little more confidence when things get hot. And the fact is all the money I have spent trying things has meant I have gone backwards, not made power. Stick with a botl on Greddy kit and tune it well. Cams are a waste of money, inlet plenums an even bigger waste of money. So spending money didnt make my setup better, it made it worse...Nissan got it pretty right As for all the other advice re RB25, RB30 etc well, you will do whats right for you...but drop your power requirement to 260-280rwkws and a std motor will last a long time at minimal cost. Whatever you decide, ask yourself why did your old engine spin a bottome end. A std RB20 can be pretty reliable. An RB20 with a an oil pump more reliable again... an RB20 with a sump, oil pump and rebuilt bottom end would still be a great thing. Not too many RB20s melt pistons or bend rods

That Cyber Evo may finally be fast....well based on the pictures it now seems quick enough to warrant an upgrade to the std Nissan gear

Dont worry, Vettel will not finish the Hungarian GP and will miss 4 or 5 races...I am up to the task at hand

Koni or Bilstein would be my 2c

And that includes new ISC coilovers and an alignment....I say that would be about 80% of the improvement I only point this out as I think its important to understand where to spend money to make the most gains in lap times.

You are serisouly telling me that in your old Corolla you got a real 10sec per lap improvement with brakes alone? No different in tyres, cars weight, driver imrpovement, suspension etc...just brakes ? Any more detail about the cars mods and the changes to the brakes?

Sorry, not a hope it hell of getting it down there on the std manifold, wrong flange, no gate etc etc

Three rotaries in the one pic and not a single bike! Just seeing this thread now. I would come around but guess I have a well deserved kick in the balls next time I show up after going on a 2 day bender rather then buy you dinner the other week

But its such a farking waste of money to go there and two 2 sessions of tyre pressures. Then one session where you get black flagged...if the Scrutineer is sincere then he will ask what you have changed and if the answer is nothing they wont let you run. If they are pretty easy going they will let you go back out knowing you will get pinged the second time. Need to find a second hand Racepace R32 GTR exhaust .. or just tottle around wasting $ in sessions and then give it a squirt...so hard to improve on your PBs when you only get 4-5 laps in total

Oooh...I just stepped in G4

According to the graph i posted it was running 20psi dropping to about 19psi

Agree to disagree....if you hvae big hp, weight and grip you need big brakes. If you have lower weight, less grip and power then you can get away with far less brakes. Mallala cant be any worse then Sandown or Calder. NO TRACK IS EVER ALL ABOUT BRAKES! The best way to improve the stopping distance of your car is mega dollar shocks that control the pitch under braking and keep all four tyres on the road over the bumps and track surface (set up properly) and very soft and grippy tyres. The stability/control under brakes and tyre grip is what stops the car....the brakes are there to just disperse the heat. Very few cars improve lap times significantly with brake upgrade alone if you leave your tyres and suspension as is. That is assuming what you have is capable, which a std R31 sliding calipers are not, but Sumitomo calipers with good pads and rotors are. IMO Your budget should always be spent on tyres, shocks and brakes.. IMO in that order. Good tyres mask bad suspension. Good tyres help acceleration, turning and stopping. Throw in some good suspension and the car accelerates better, turns better and stops better. Throw big brakes on a car without the other two and its a waste... and major brake upgrades are along with engine rebuilds about the most expensive thing you can mod on your car which both happen to do little to improve performance Think about an 1150kg R31 that is doing 180km/h down the straights compared to a GTR that is 1600kgs doing 220km/h on the same straight...there corner speeds can be pretty similar by 5-10km/h...no way the R31 will need as much brake as the GTR. And back to the improving lap times...think about cars finishing the qtr mile that are 2 tenths apart at 120mph. There are several car lenghts difference...I cant think of too many practical situations where a brake upgrade will shave seconds off a single lap time...perhaps over the time it takes to complete 5+ laps but not over a lap which is all 90% of think about with club sprints

Where are the pics of the R33 tart up?

I personally would just go with R33 GTS25t brakes rather then the far more expensive R33 GTR brakes. You will be able to get rotors and 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears close to fitted for the price of the GTR fronts alone. And the major difference in a car with your grip and weight will be in the pad, not in the need for large rotors

Unless there semi slicks then brand new tyres are about the worst thing you can take to the track...you will throw chunks of tyre tread and the car will walk around on the tread making the car feel likes its on skittles. SO my questions is...how mnay people get booted at WRX Sanodwn days because of noise because I havent touched my car since the folly of my first session there the other week when I got booted

Wel my tips are in for the first time in a few races. My tip is this is the first time this year that Vettel comes undone. Webber finally gets the job done and makes up for his backflip last year....so Webber, Button and Alonso are my top 3. PS...i will continue to put Webber down for a win until he gets his first race win of the year Will hate myself if he gets up when I am not backing him...and if I have to wait to Jungary when I will be there and able to throw DJ rocks at his competitors

So Subaru, are you aware how closely policed the noise limit is going to be policed on the day?

LOL, gutted I would have been in for a shot at that time if I never messed with my manifold setups Oh well...I think this will be my last hurrah for a while as I go OS the week after and am sooo broke. But I have tyres and brakes, so can do this day pretty cheaply. But what to do about noise Matt, will that rear Racepace muffler fit in the bum of an R32?

I had this kit for sale about 12 months ago and a friend grabbed it off me for his R32. The direction of his build has changed and no longer will be using it....so back up for sale. Firstly some pics of the turbo... Here is the pick of the 55,000km old Greddy manifold A close of of the two minor repairs i have done to the manifold over the years... Dump and "Stuff" that the kit comes with... The below dyno is on my std RB20, std inlet and cams, head etc. Unopened engine. This was a track tune so there is another 10-15rwkws in it of you have a built motor, an RB25 that can spin it easier or you are only driving on the street so never stress the engine with high heat and loads like you get at the track The manifold and gate came off my car when i replaced it with a 6boost manifold. I was expecting improvements in reponse and power with the 6boost but in reality the Greddy manifold appears to have offered slightly better performance. It does have small hairline crack on one of the hard to access welds, it has been this way for a while and never got worse or affected performance or was audible. Regarding the turbo, I purchased it off yahoo about 18 months ago. To the best of my knowledge it runs no problem, but I personally have not run it. I purcahsed it as it is an L2 version of the TD06 and I currently run a plain TD06 version. People claim the L2 is more responsive but I never bothered to find out. The plan was to have the turbo rebuilt with a ball bearing core to see if it offered an improvement in performance over my current setup...but after the 6boost manifold, plazmaman plenum install all of which cost me money and for the resultant loss in performance....i cant be stuffed with more experimenting, So all up for sale, asking $1850. Kit is currently at friends place in Brisbane, can post to metro major cities for about $60-80