Roy

LOL, cool! I get the feeling you can drive anything fast!

Will be interesting. For once Webber is on the clean side of the track and reports have him with the functioning KERS> Its his weekend to lose

And I was too busy at work to get my tips in ... fark it...please dont tell me the week I dont get my tips in Mark is going to get up

So the question is, we need the onboard for Vettel to see if he had KERS. Bit of a hollow pole if Vettel was handicapped 0.3-0.5sec because he didnt have KERS. Either way, I am stoked!!!!

FARK YEH!!!!!!

Well, was booted after two half paced laps the week before at Sandown so the noise is having to get plumbed up again

Ita not all that scientific really. 21-20psi is the on 100RON is 280odd, 18psi with a few degrees of ignition removed is 245rwkws. The vid from Winton in December was 260rwkws on 100RON, the vid from last weekend is somewhere between 245-250rwkws on 98ron. Get your tuner to give it plenty of hits on the dyno under load with the water and oil temps up there and make sure the tune is fine. My problem is my engine seems to take less ignition then it used to with the std plenum now I have the Plazmaman inlet so other engines may not be so sensitive to fuel and ignition. Well, at least mine never used to be so its either somehow related to the inlet or the engine is simply getting tired. Could be either really. I try not to run inlet temps over 95 for water on the track...no idea what my oil temp is tese days as i have never wired the sensor back up after my fire all those years ago. But typically stopped when my oil was at 110deg. These days not knowing what it is is i bet its getting up to 130deg on the track. On the street my water temp is usually between 70-75deg C

LOL, is that a rev up? Every mod I do I lose response Its a proven fact I am only looking at running a 50% mix of E85. That way i can keep a 200L drum and just add 20L from a jerry can in my boot to 20L of 98 from the bowser. Will see just how sensitive the E85 is to moisture from storage Not really all that concerned about gaining a lot. The car can make 285rwkws on 100RON, and i back it off a little to 255-265rwkws (on 98 I have to back it off to 245rwkws odd) for the track for when it gets hot. So with the better fuel i hope to be able to tune it up to 280rwkws and it still be safe on the track when oil/coolant, inlet temps all get hot.

Thatsa why Vettel is a c0ck bag!!!! Thats is amazing! Renault were checking out his engine the whole session...he just went out and did one lap and went fastest ... Germans

Buy it back Pete...you know you want more of this in your life ...

Curious to know what race fuels people have tried. Back in the dark ages when I had my R1 and when i first got my R32 it was common practice to try toluene, or the Shell 100 leaded fuel you could get from servos. But its been years since I have bene to EC or Wakefield and did that. When i first got to Melb i used to throw 10L of Sunoco in with 35L of 98 to give the engien some knock prevention when it was hot on the track. Looking around some websites this morning I am wondering if anyone can give some feedback on the following: Elf TurboEvo ... http://www.racefuels.com.au/fuelsDetail.asp?ID=20 Elf Performance (Perfo 105) ..., http://www.racefuels.com.au/fuelsDetail.asp?ID=31 Martini Super Turbo 1400 ... http://www.martiniracing.com.au/Super-Turbo-1400-Racing-Fuel.aspx Martini Grand Prix 700 ... http://martiniracing.com.au/Grand%20Prix%20700.aspx Looking at the Sunoco unleaded gear it doesnt seem to add up ... http://www.sunocoinc.com/site/Consumer/RaceFuels/UnleadedFuels/ but is a lot cheaper! Seems to be a tad better then the old Shell Racing 100RON So interested to know of people have tried any of the above as 100% tune or as 50% mixes with 98?

Stopped the backhand reach around method without even noticing. I think it came from driving the little Exige and Caterhams last year where there is no space in the cabin and you sit so low...no space for reach arounds is never a good thing And Yes...something with E85 in the next two weeks

New PB for Winton Circuit Name: Winton Long Track Lap time: 1:37.42 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?15/05/2011.WIN.S1 Modifications Engine: std RB20DET with 6boost manifold and Greddy TD06-20 8cm Power: 245rwkw (running less ignition then usual and 98RON) Suspension: Custom Tein RA, ARC Swaybars, Tyres: 4yr old flat spotted RE55s Brakes: Custom 343mm Stoptech ST-40 fronts and std R33 GTR Brembo rears Body weight: 1300-1320kg roughly Will be interesting to see how i go next time back with new tyres and a proper wheel alignment and ride height changes. Currently running std ride height. If you have decent sound on your computer you can hear the flat spot on the front left...especially on right hand corners. (i am a whore at posting vids )

Well I just read that Vettel was busier then usual looking at Webbers data and lap plots...so at the moment that suggests that Webber may have a tad more pace that Vetytel will no doubt bridge over the weekend

So Sard 700s and Nismo in tank should be ok for a 50% mix?

Well, now that I am back in Aus and the car is back together. I am goign to keep this thread alove So did two track days in two weekends. Did two laps at Sandown and got booted because of noise So the following weekend went to Winton and gave it a wrap... The basics were 19psi, 245rwkws and shifting between 7,400-7,600rpm for 43 laps. I have lost a bit of power as United have stopped selling 100RON so had to wind some ignition of it. Its amazing how sensitive my engine is to ignition, it really loses and gains power with a few degrees....so need to look at getting back on a better quality fuel. Before the plenum install i ran 98 plenty of times on the 100ron tune and no issue.

So what fuel, injectors and fuel pump are you running?

Well my old bus was out last weekend. I did a PB of 1:37.4. I did a bunch of laps in the 37s so that is all I was going to get out of it. Killed a tyre with a lock up so now have to try the AO50s.

Thats a cool pic! Watching Jacks vid side by side with mine the biggest difference is straight line acceleration! Corners are about the same, perhaps me a tad quicker... but under brakes and in a straight line I am being murdered....lol i need e85

LOL, no. Thet are genuine TE37s. Irs because the fronts are only +28 offset and rears +35 offset tht the look gay. They acrually grow on you, especially when you see all the JGTC with flat spokes that they kind of start to feel race spec cool (maybe)

I am running R33 GTR Brembo rears with unknown pads. But seemed fine. There is the possibility i have too much front bias, but cant really tell with the alignment the way it is, racey pads up front with unknwons out back. But all seems ok at the moment,

Because my lock ups were typically at the endof the braking zone my road speed was pretty low. You normally only badly flat spot tyres when you have some speed on board. i did actually pick up a flat spot the time i grabbed a brake early in the braking area. It probably was the reason it was locking so often afterwards, even when at lower speeds

A shudder developed on the last of the few laps i ran at Sandown last weekend. Show up during the little street driving i did and during the firsf session at winton. Took the wheels off and checked everything was tight and nothing had loosened with the first lot of heat cycles. Nothing unusual but was able to nip up a ted. Checked pads and they were badly glazed. Cleaned up the pads and were brilliant from then on. So maybe i under did the bedding. Or the rainearly on in the running in of pads/rotors. But what felt like warped rotors was just pad glazing.

Thanks to Martin for the pics from the weekend...the brakes work well ... lap after lap Lap 1 Lap 2 Lap 3 Lap 4 The PFC06 pads were really nice when hot. They were a bit grabby when cold which meant I was locking them up pretty often. But when up to temp they were a lot easier to modulate. Seems for the car weight, tyre grip and rotor (cooling) size I need to run a pad which comes up to temp a lot quicker. Also need to get the car's susp setup properly, I have big front ARC swaybar which seems to be unloading the inside wheel when i turn in trailing the brake a little. By the time I start to turn in I am only carrying a little bit of brake but is enough to lock the inside wheel when the big bar ties the sides of the car together and unloads the inside tyre SO need to get the car's ride heights set, rose joints on the front bar set correctly and maybe backed off a little along with a good wheel alignment. has not had one since start of 2009 ...and some not so incrimating pics

LOL...really appreciate you posting those pictures. For the life of me I cant hear when the RE55s lock up. I have been told the AO50s are a bit easier to drive on as they give you a good squeal. But yet to try them. I am running far too racier a pad for my weight of car and rotor size as they really are nice after a number of laps, but up until that point when they are still coming up to temp they are easy to lock up. The flip side is they are very kind on rotors, but alas they dont seem to be too easy on tyres when they are cold The original idea was to go as big a rotor/caliper setup as I could get under a 17" wheel then run street pads as they would offer plenty of cooling. I wanted to try the PFC06 as they are an endurance pad and are qiet, low rotor wear and not dusty....but they are hard to get up to temp Also, doesnt help that I have big ARC front swaybars on rose joints which really need to be set with the ride heights and corner balancing. No surprise that the brake locks ups when there is a little turn in and trail braking going on and I suspect the big fron swaybar is unloading the inside tyre when there is body roll