Roy

Well the TD06-20G in 3rd and 4th gear is hitting 18psi wel before 4,200rpm. On an RB24 it would be better but still not really getting up and going before 4,500rpm. All RBs only boogie after 4,500rpm, irrespective of what turbos are doing before hand. (IMO) The T67 is a popular RB24 turbo. Just about all the RB24s you see coming our of Japan have T67s strapped to them so that suggests they are a resonably well proven recipe

This week is my week Race winner Mark Webber Podium finishers (top 3, position irrelevant) Mark Webber Lewis Hamilton Fernando Alonso Points finishers (4th - 10th, position irrelevant) Jenson Button Felipe Massa Michael Schumacher Nico Rosberg Rubens Barrichello Paul di Resta Kamui Kobayashi Fastest lap Sebastian Vettel

For $500ono I will do the manifold, gate, dump pipe and oil lines for anyone wanting to run off and buy something like this for new. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Kinugawa-T67-25G-Trust-3-Bolt-8cm-Housing-/280694746061?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415ab5ebcd For results with the above ebay turbo... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/345095-another-r32-money-pit/page__st__20 Makes for a bargain 320rwkws turbo package. Seems to work well on an RB25, would not relaly hit full boost to 5,000rpm on an RB20 but would make 290-300rwkws

Nah, the RB20 has its place....and its nowhere neat this car

Lets just read that again! Whilst we have lost a few fixed tracks, it seems all the growth of V8s has meant street races or OS races. Shame it hasnt resulted in any local tracks being built. Wasnt Wakefield talking major developments a whiel back that would make it longer etc?

Well also ... Caterham now in F1 !!!! Err, well there name appears on the side of Team Lotus's cars anyway. Still cool in my books

Be interesting to see how you go with the PFC01s. I am running PFC06s which are basically the same pad only for endurance racing so lose a little bit. I suspect they will be great in your car. In mine I have no ABS and they are VERY bitey. Too bitey for my driving and I lock fronts a lot. What rear pad are you running? You will need a pretty good rear pad I imagine to balance everything out....I suspect with the std caliper and rotors up front the pads will work better then on my car which has bigger rotors and calipers and I end up with a tad too much brakign force with such a race pad

I would knife small children and beat women to own this car! It is that EPIC!

Reading it again its a bit misleading and says its different things in different places. Title states TD06S ...and then in the body TD06SL2 so???? If it was TD06SH then it is rated higher then Simons...oh gawd I dont know. But Trust, at least that way you know or get a clarification and make sure its the same as something other people have gotten good results with My advice, if you cant make up your mind on size you are after always better to go down a size. Will generally be a safer bet and not need as many revs so looks after the engine a little more

???Who knows??? Its basically a T67 it appears, albeit with a slightly different exhaust wheel. I have a photo of the TD06S wheel next to an L2 wheel somewhere, if you search around SAU from around 2004 when I first put my turbo on you may find it But may be best to stick with known qty and get exactly what SimonR32 purchased

GTScotT ... Your links dont work so?!?!?! Cant comment I am with Simon re his comments above so agree to disagree And not doubting Simons results for a minute. The thing performs, but I suspect its just one of those engine/turbo and tune combos that wont be easily replicated. I think 330rwkws with about 19psi is about the norm +/- 10rwkws

Eeek...NO! Much damage? At least it was caught on film which is the important thing

Well I grabbed the L2 because everyone says they are more responsive and make more power or words to that effect... Then my tuner installed a few on other RB20s and mine was generally more responsive and made the same power so differences are in the exhaust and intercooler/filter and engine....not much in the turbo...so have not bothered to fit it. There is a place in Sydney that puts ball bearing centres in the TD ranges of turbos so thought about doing that to my L2 but honestly can think of better ways to spend my money at moment then experiment with something that I suspect will make FA difference to spool and response. Then i have the TD06SH-25G and the T67-25G because I have all the parts for a forged RB24. Its just that the lil RB20 in my car at the moment wont die LOL if anyone wants a used greddy manifold, gate and dump for a Kando I have that as well

I think Simons results are a little freakish! I disagree that a T67 will generally out grunt an GT35R. Throw a T67 and a GT35R on the same car, same tuner and run 19-21psi and my bet is the 35R will make more power every time. On pump fuel there are 35Rs making 350-370rwkws. I dont know of any T67 that has ever made that power on 98. The T67 is a good thing, but I have seen TD06SH-25Gs make 15-25rwkws more then the T67-25G so if you want a little nit more then the T67 then go the TD06SH Currently I have sitting around: TD06L2-20G 8cm T67-25G 10cm and an TD06SH-25G 10cm I have currently running on my car a TD06-20G 8cm and can tell you there is no difference in performance between the TD06-20G and the TD06L2-20G. There is no magic in the L2 turbine (IMO) And if you want something that will make more power then the T67-25G then you really need the TD06SH-25G...have a look at the following pics to get an idea of the difference in exhaust wheel . The TD06SH turbine flows more then the TD06L2 turbine and whilst they have the same compressor, the SH wheel poses a lot less restriction. As you can see, the SH turbine is a fair whack bigger then the L2 wheel. The following is not 100% accurate as their are variables but you could expect similar results from: TD06-20G and HKS 2835 T67-25G and HKS 3037 TD06SH-25G and HKS 3040.... So that leaves the 35R a tad smaller then the T78, but is the next frame up on the T67

Does he actually operate in Europe/Japan or is he simply an in between guy who throws on an entry list with people who hire cars and run track days?

Nissan may not have done much in F1 but the R90CK never lacked for grunt

Good to hear the car ran well. Ryan said it seemed to be working ok. I was running 4 year old RE55s the other week at Winton, I dont think they lose a lot of time provided they have been stored right. The other week when I was at Sandown, where I got kicked off for noise in the first session....I only did two half spirited laps to see if the brakes were bedded and working ok...and I did a 1:25 flat. So obviously the tires still had some pace in them to do that time without really trying. What speeds were you hitting down the straight? Ryan tells me you were only running about 250rwks, so thats a great time considering you only had 15rwkws more then the RB20 setup and probably more lag. Real keen to see how you go at PI. Sux that I am not entering. Common sense prevailed with me and going to leave it parked since I am off OS next week doing car stuff. Good luck at PI and keep me posted with sms

You need a TD06SH-25G. Throwing a bigger housing on the T67 wont do the job (IMO) The bigger turbine will help make the 350rwkws you want. I know of a TD06SH-25G with 10cm housing; powered car that on an RB25 with baby cams and a Greddy plenum made 345rwkws on pump fuel no fuss at 20psi

Why does everyone desire the L2? I run the normal TD06 and on the same dyno with the same tuner my car make .5rwkws more and was a tad more responsive. So probably more to do with being a tad healthier engine, smaller diam wheel ?! But point is there was no real difference in performance on an RB20, and it seems the plain TD06 wheel flows a bit more then the L2 wheel. So makes me think on an RB25 you would not want the L2 wheel with anything less then a 10cm housing

Well isnt that RX7 effectively a GT300 car, and the little Exige a GT3 car out of Europ? So its already happening. If i had 130k then i know what i would buy

I get what Team USA is saying about head work, I think what is being lost in translation between convicts and pilgrims is that R31_Nismoid is sayign dont do things to mess with velocity, ie big porting or the inlet and outlet, etc etc. You are right in saying that anything you can do to lessen the resistance of air without dropping velocity is going to be a good thing. Match porting etc etc. But the key is not just flow, flow is great, more the better, but its the velocity that gives you good culinder filling and torque/response which in a turbo car works well. Get the turbo on speed and the engien delivering torque and then jsut squeeze as much as you can in there with psi!

If thats all it costs you then you are right...but nobody does an engine conversion for $1500. You need to change the wiring, hell yo uneed to drop the A/C gas and re-charge, Oils and coolant. Mad to put a used engine n your car without changing at least the timing belt and idler/tensioner bearings. To that you shoudl really look at the water pump as well. Then there are the things that I am not sure of, as I have never done an RB25 transplant. But belts for PS etc? I am not sayings its hard or a big job, its pretty simple in the world of things. But all of the above is likely to throw at least another $100 to what you are quoting and that is doing it all yourself. And then you are stuck with an untunable ecu and crappy 200rwkws turbo...

Awesome...will have to buy soem HRT crap for the Hungarian GP Good thing the experienced old hand that he is up against is Liuzzi who should be cannon fodder for Daniel

If this doesnt sell before I go OS in 10 days time then i may go back to getting the turbo high flowed with a ball bearing centre

This is a great 340-350rwks RB25, RB25/30 setup. Can you PM me how mcuh GCG charged to rebuild?