Roy

Then you are a purist ... ... intending to use an R32 for a spear a spud comp on a farm

IMHO response and all thar fluff costs thousands and adds a few kws to the party. Just get a good spread of power and spend the thousands you have just saved on actually punting the car at the occassional track days This got it right on page 1 Only his reasoning for improved times is wrong It had more to do with the tech of tyres and change from RE55s to AO50s. The change from 98-100ROn to E85...those two factors alone mean there is no point comparing times...not to mention the final factor that tracks are being re-surfaces. Sandown is faster simply because of re-surfacing and now PI is >1.5seconds quicker due to re-surfacing. But to the core of the question. The things that increase response. Well everything is a compromise and trade off. But the main things are to reduce inertia so smaller lighter materials for things like turbo wheels, tailshaft, accessories on the front of the engine. Reponse comes from good culinder filling and gas velocity so as others have touched on dont go crazy big bore on inelt pipes and headwork. If you want Mines like response just put 2 stroke/rotary like gearing in your car and the need to swap gears every 2 seconds will have you thinking you are driving the most responsive car in the world But silly statement but raises the intersting point is to look at gearing and diff chanegs are an option. If you are talking engines then bin the head. Get an RB25 R33 or R34 head, put an built for purpose inlet manifold on the car and just jam fist fulls of boost into it

Why bother with an RB25 when you can throw in a Turbo Barra engine in? In some states engine swaps are easy, some are harder. If you actually race the car you need to sometimes keep the original block and or displacement. I am a hack driver who likes to cheat and unlike the other honset SAU folk who punt their GTSTs in Targa Tas who abide by the rules I would be running an RB24 in a heart beat if I ran my car in Targa. RB25 doesnt have a tunable ecu. So means more money for a PFC and loom changes etc. Not the end of the world but a consideration. I have seen the results of a few RB24s and they all stack up amazingly well. So RB25s do a good job of making pwer. So do RB26s., 28s, 30s etc. But the whole throw away RB20 if you have an R32 series platform makes about as much sense as telling people to throw away their SR20s if they have an S13/14 platform. With a leaking headgasket I will put my RB20 up against a similarily turbo'd RB25 and you know what....they wont leave me for dead. Spending more than 3.5k doing a NEO swap in an RB20 is lunacy to me. You mentioned you are running std turbo and what 180-200rwkws. That boggles my mind when for a turbo install you can be rocking 260-280rwkws reliably and you will never worry about a power upgrade. You will be too busy trackign your car having giggles. I have had my car for 13 years so when I chase power its as much our of curiosity and boredom as it is for more power. Oh, and my car is so desirable and full of RB20 awesomeness some maggot, scumbag carnt tried to steal it yesterday. Almost got it too if not for neighbour stopping them

So actually trying to answer your questions... How well do stock rb26 rods hold up? Fine.They are good things. If you need to get them re-sized, balanced with rod bolts then something like Eagles start to look good and are equally as good. I think they are a few grams lighter than RB26 rods which is also a good thing Whats a good compression ratio for it? I know turbo motors don't like alot of compression unlike N/A cars. If you are going E85 I woudl entertain the idea of 9.0:1, if pump then stick with 8.5:1. On E85 people like to run evern more compression then 9.0:1 but I woudl be rather be cautious and build somrthing that trades a bit of reponse for reliability Whats a good turbo to run? I was told a 35R turbo would be the way to go. Almost every RB24 kit you see in japan runs a T67-25G or a TD06-25G. I personally would go for a PF 76HTA based turbo with a GT30 turbine or TD06 turbine would be a nice punchy thing And whats a good LSD. I run a 1.5KAAZ...seems fine. Have never busted a shaft or diff etc. Some people upgrade to stronger drive shafts of RB26 but until you start popping them I wouldnt bother as it just makes the car heavier. And for those hating the idea of an RB24. It does have merits why it would be a better thing than an RB25. Consider longer stroke of RB26 but with far smaller lighter pistons. Should give it good balance of rev and torque and ability to pull big revs with greatly rediced bottom end loads. The fact that they have smaller inlet runners and valves etc is a restriction if you are chasing epic power. But the flip side is they give you higher velocities and better atoimisation of fuel in the mid range and give sharper torque and response. The beauty of turbo cars...if you want tmore power you just run more boost and better fuel. I know there is nothing really wrong with the std RB20 head at 310rwkws. Only takes 22-23psi to make that power and thats pulling 8,500rpm with std cams, valve springs...just with a tiny 8cm housing and a Plazmaman inlet. At the moment the restriction on my setup is the little 8cm housing. With a bit more compression, a tighter new engine instead of an unknown wrecker engine + 60,000kms then you woudl expect to be able to get away with a 10cm rear housing and by eliminating the exhuast restriction could throw a slightly bigger compressor on it and you woudl be starting down the barrel of a good, strong 350rwks setup that has a bottom end far stronger than any other RB engine I dont hear people saying SR20s cant flow enough for decent power and they need cams/springs etc to even make 300rwkws. A std RB20 head flows that a peice of piss and people say its no good. 5 years ago before E85 perhaps the cylinder pressures and temperatures woudl have been an issue....but these days E85 is a pretty good bandaid. An Rb25 would be pushing a load more air through so at this time if you threw in some nice high lift cams you will probably bet getting 65% of where you need to be with regards to getting a better flowing "air pump"

Its been said before. People who put RB25s in their R32 GTSt are the sort of people who will sleep with their mate's wife because she is easy. If you throw an RB26/28/DOHC 30 etc it's just as bad but you can at least justify it to yourself by saying she is hot and the best bit of tail getting around.

Dont they run KERS

I am keen to see Kay's work at STR. His work at FI and Sauber puts him in the top 3 engineers in the game (imo)

Along with my mates blue R32 GTR in Sydney this GTR goes down in the history books as being "TOUGH"...Just plain old tough. Looked tough, souned tough, stance ... tough. Good to see it is making a comeback!

I was walking the car off the line with about 3, 000rpm and was a long way from a launch as I was protecting my clutch and gearbox. Even with 2.3-2.5 60ft times I was still running between 12.9 and 13.5 with 234rwkws from a torqueless RB20. My car is 1335kg plus driver with 15l of fuel. Why are so many cars with 250rwkws in the mid 14s? Is it the way they make power or torque falls off?!?!?

That Sauber is the best looking car the grid has seen for years! I half suspect Hulk will make Esteban look slower than he really is. The guy seems to have a good turn of speed

That is a great looking car

lol, if you want cheap and goodv i have a new kando td05h-18g...will make the power you are after and be pretty mega respoinsive. you just need to buy bthe exhaust housing fo $150 and you have a $600 brand new turbo to givev fabricator to mount gate on housinhg

Just keep in mind the shafts are a different diameter, so different bearings, cartridge etc etc and of course different hub diameter on your compressor

I know the difference in Trust/Greddy speak Others are the ones getting confused You are right. In Greddy /Trust speak the T67-25G is in Kando speak a TD06SL2 25G I mentioned TD06H turbine on the bigger FP HTA compressors as they need the bigger turbines for the added torque to spin the compressor . Stao commented. I was pointing out we are talking about different things. My TD06H was the bigger diameter turbine with different diam shaft and different number of blades TD06H. I am not sure what back cut wheel he is thinking about . I have a bigger than 73HTA "Roy Spec" TD06H thing for my stroker to go on in after i cut laps around Albert Park at the Aus GP. That will scare 400rwkws on E85 without any lame ass need for lame ass RB25 But first lets see tyres blazing from the 73HTA

Not what what I meant. Different people call teh different wheels different things. What is the difference between the Greddy T67-25G and the Greddy TD06H-25G ? TD06H A T67-25G (on the left) Its not simply a cropped wheel. Its 11 blade vs 12 blade and the 12 blade TD06H isd actually a bigger diameter turbine. Thats why the T67-25G exhaust housing doesnt bolt on to the TD06H-20G Or soem better photos I have taken TD06H L2 Turbine Side by side 25G Compressor 73HTA Compressor And this is what happens when you put the TD06H housing on the L2

They do a range ot Evo based turbos, STI based turbos, Garret based turbos and Hi-Flow turbos....their range of 55, 65, 68, 71, 73, 76, 82, 86, 105mm wheels..I cant imagine to know the combos of turbiones and compressorss they offer and have tried and wont offer. The R32 is right behind the Cossie rebuild whcih shoudl be getting puched out this weekend and in for tune/run in next week. The R32 is right behind it for a tune

RB25s arent for me! But like all billet wheels the shank is way smaller so combined with the 5mm bigger compressor and blade design it flows way more. They make 320-340awkws on EVOs in the US on pump fuel with about the same if not better response than 20G. They do a bigger compressor bersion around 76mm but they dont use the L2 turbone for that...they go the TD06H

Uncle Duncan...I think you are missing the point. If you have 1 million to sink into something then I am guessing you invest plenty of other cash in beer, coke and hookers. Have tarmac rally cars, a Carrera Cup car. Do whatever the hell you want most of the time that you are not stressing and busting your ass doing what got you the cash to blow in the first place. What I cant excuse is wanting an R35! I thought you were better then that

LOL, I have a 73HTA TD06L2

But you would if you could (had the means) Sure as sh1t not what I would build, but good on em for just going bonkers

Dontchop up that manifold...just get a 6boost. I will buy your manu off you as I am looking for one at the mo

The car is an absolute credit to him and those that had input. For me you measure cars against themselves, not the others. Sure the entrants and competitors can shoot for each others times and be competitive but from the comfort of my desk behind my PC its not right to judge the pace of any of the cars. Unless they are an EVO then they are just so easy to drive that my 5yr old nephew woudl give outright a nudge . Hell I have been trying to rebuild and semi restore my Cossie the past 9 months and jsut cant find the time and I am single. Time is hard to come by

So 20g is molded std manifold and HG is with an exhaust manifold? Using a phoenix to look at graphs is hard

He had sorted his starts by 2/3 mark . He actualy held and made positions the last handful of GPs Well, except that one and maybe another