Roy

Just plain old TD06 turbine. When he went T67 it left him with TD06 laying around one of which found its way on to my RB20. That's why at first I ran a 10xmas housings as its what it came off with. I then upgraded kinetic to an 8cm

An ASUS home gateway is coming your way today. been struggling to get away from work to allow me to post the thing

Animal. A friend ran twin 20g with 10cm housings before going T67s. He made 600rwkws on race fuel back in 2002 o a 2.7L Trust bottom end

Hi Brad...still doing the rear HICAS kits like what you did for Pete on his R32? I have an R33 box and R33 GTR rear end about to go in my bus and much prefer your design then std HICAS lock bars http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=292614 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=292620

Bene there and tried it. Spent almost 2 months waiting for it all to be trial fitted and played with and was a no goer due to steering arms/tue road end locations all being screwed up with horrible results in bump steer. The thing is barely lighter so just scrapped the idea of having allow hubs all round

Years ago I read an interestintg white paper on defence and a 5o year view of our region. It sighted a strong local car manufacturing industry as a requirement for the security of the country. Seemed strange but they claim in the event of conflict a strong automotive industry is seen as the backbone oif industry that will be able to quickly migrate to manfcature of defence equip and weapons. The technology, thetraining ans skills and the factories themselves. I thought it was a little old fashioned to read such a thing but I suppose in a time of conflict a country like Australia that is rather isolated and with strong minerals waleth...well it makes sense that governments may see the industry as a critical backbone to a developed society that is autonomous.

Ash...read up on German car industry and cost of labour and unions. There is far more to the discussion then blaming labour rates and unions. Fark open markets and I am all for tariffs to protect local industries and jobs.GM were wanting to use te Holden designed rwd platforms globally due to the low price top engineer the platform and quality of the output. But as always as other markets open up it is going to be hard to compete with factories in east Europe, South America, South Africa etc. The reason why they will be shut down is because fat cats can turn a a better dollar doing something elsewhere and charge consumers the same...Notheing about being too expensive to make here...

Good work for a drunken Irish sailor

Was sad to see Webber lose his engineer. I hope the new combo works well for him. Its a huge thing to have a good engineer that you work well with

1" runners is damn small! Also, when at the track I always let the car idle up good and proper which gets heat through everything in the engine bay and spend the first two laps gradually building loads and revs as I warm up tyres and brakes. The thermal shock things get when you blast them from near cold with 800deg C exhaust gases until they glow red and then shut it down to click and tick itself cold...is never going to be good . Even if thats not the source of your problems it is a good practice on a car that is tracked

Yep, its an SR20!

I almost threw my laptop across the room as I thought you were putting a cage in the R32 Good to see its only a harness bar! Who is the cool folk with the DR30...any pics/progress?

Interesting when I read the Canton website it talks about using the pressure regulating kit for race applications as it ensures that the unit isnt discharding from the high pressure say 8,000rpm oil pressure when you are at low revs or idling?!?! The pressure switch controlling the valve means it always has a volume of oil for that surge...makes sense but I really like the simplicity of the manual system which I simply open when doing sessions LOL..."In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity." vs "For those looking for the convenience of an electric valve and the fast refill rate required in racing applications our (electric pressure control) E.P.C. electric valves are recommended. The pressure control system keeps the electric valve in the off position during times of normal oil pressure. With the valve in the off position it is able to quickly recharge the Accusump with oil pressure after discharge, thus being ready for the next oil surge. When the engine's oil pressure drops below the EPC Valve's preset level the valve opens and releases the stored oil in to the system. Like our standard electric valve the EPC valve can be wired to a remote dash-mounted switch or can be wired directly into the ignition so it will turn on and off automatically when the ignition is in the 'on' or the 'off' position."

Sounds like it may not be a plazmaman and instead one of the chinese knock offs?

For shits and giggles any chance of getting that graph overlayed your GTSt/T67?

Another year where I am going to have to pass as my wish list budget is being spent at the Australian GP I sincerely hope that the control tyre means cheaper tyres for entrants and not even more expensive then the already too high consumable. It would suck to be getting cheap Dunlops/Bridgestone/Hankooks as the event just got a whole lot more expensive for them

What accumsump are you running? Auto or manual valve?

Does not equal I think the TD06 is a ripper of a setup but is a long way from a bolt up and is really a 260rwkws option. If you want bolt on then its hard to go past a hi-flow using the housings that all your piping currently bolts up to

True if you assume you are running the std clutch fan. If you are runner running electric thermometer fans with a smart controller or Ecu then it means the the temps run in the sweet range of 75-80 with less effort/strain on electrics and thermometer fans

Gizzmo gear is now taken. Still have a load of this stuff around Alcon Mono6 calipers $2400 firm (waiting for payment) Genuine Trust T67-25G $1800 firm Genuine Trust TD06H-25G turbo $1650 firm Volk 17" GT-P rims $1000 ono Koyo R32 GTR replacement radiator $300ono R32 GTR headlights $300 ono R32 GSTt rear calipers $180 AU Falcon electric thermo fans $80 Momo Kevlar Race Seats with head wings. Price: $700 firm for both seats (One may be sold, just need to get car to friend so he can sit in it

What trim is the 60mm compressor wheel?

No more Fanvision! Seriously, I will not attend any more OS GPs without it.! Get your act together FOM

Bump....Will sell for $450 with no rear housing

If your std rotors are fine thickness wise then dont upgrade them. The std rotors are better than most aftermarket rotors you will throw on so dont waste your money. IF they are undersized then replace them with whatever generic rotor you can get cheaply. THE BIGGEST change you will do to your brakes is the pad you run. Do you have ABS and do you like realy bitey pads or do you like needing a lot of pedal effort? Something up spec like Endless CCX will go a long way to giving you braking feel and bight you didnt think possible with std brakes, which when combined with good fluid makes a big difference. If your lines are in good nic dont bother with braided lines as they are an expense you can live without. f youc an do all the labour yourself and get good braided lines cheaply then throw them on...but dont spend $500 on them through a workshop as whilst they are a good thing...that money is better spent elsewhere on the car...ie tyres

See Marko has been bust the past 10 days talking Sh1T about Webber. He is such a hard ass...hopefully Webber gets 5th time lucky against Seb