LotusGTR

It looks like an image of a scale model or diorama. Stood out to me instantly. Was that the intention? Long time lurker.

Back to ZD then....

Anyone know if an R32 GTR has an OBD port?

Fair enough! I lived in the UK and spent 6 years driving Vauxhaul Cavliers / Vectras so I know my shit heaps too...I daily drive a Mazda6 which I love as it is an honest car and steers really well. I'd track one of those in preference to a gen iv golf GTI. I also remember now it had a terrible gear change. Avoid.

No.

I had one and they're terribly boring. Axle tramped everywhere. 110 flywheel kw. Worst written up GTI VW ever made. Nice interior and well built. I do not remember my ownership experience fondly.

More please

OK, so I spoke with a very helpful fella called Steve from EFI Hardware in Mitcham 03 9873 5400. He says there is a Loc-tite moly dry film lubricant (part # 39895) spray can that goes for about $90. You open the throttle blades, spray the bores, let them air dry (say 30 mins), let the throttle close on its spring (in doing this it scrapes some of the semi set materials into a ‘seat’ for the blade to close on to). You then bake the whole lot in an oven at 260 degrees c for 30 mins and it becomes hard and solvent resistant. The oven kills the 'side seals' which will then need replacing. EFI have them and say they are hard to get as they are metric. Forgot to get a price. Says he’s done this fix before and it worked. Also said a cheap and short term fix is to take off the plenum and spray this stuff onto the throttles, but because the goo is not cured with heat it eventually fails. I'll update the thread once this is sorted one way or another.

Thanks guys. I've done a fair bit of research and have spoken to the workshop and we've agreed that for all the mucking around and uncertainty around fixing the issue we'll either find a suitable wrecker part or go new from Nissan. New could be as 'low' as $1,100 and as high at $1,600 so not great - in fact terrible. Wreckers are selling them for $250 (ah, much better) but of course they may have similar problems. The wrecker in question is close to my workshop and will drop in with 3 throttle assemblies so they can be inspected. Hopefully 1 fits the bill as this carries least financial and time penalty. Will let you know. FYI I've specifically asked the workshop to confirm they have problem solved the following items and the answer was yes and they're 99% sure it's the baldes sealing against the body that's the issue. Likely there was an issue originally, but was masked by the build up of carbon, but when my engine was rebuilt the throttles were cleaned and the full extent of the problem was revealed. Their feedback is that this isn't uncommon. Hope this helps with future searches. Air Regulator Auxiliary Air Control Valve Throttle position sensor Temperature Sensor Throttle Plates mechanical stops Throttle Valves Positioning Sensor Ignition Advance Vacuum leaks in Hoses Collector / Inlet Manifold Gaskets

Oh son of rajab, how I do want......

Hi Paul, that is possible as the plenum is nice ans shiney, but not done by me. The car was (and is) in pristine condition so it's possible it's the original paint too? If it was re-painted, what's the follow on thinking?

Can anyone contributing to this thread assist with my somewhat related question? Thanks guys. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376280-high-idle/page__p__6001309__fromsearch__1#entry6001309

Those stops actually in the throttles themselves? Thanks.

I have an R32 GTR that idles high. This is somewhat controlled user the Power FC but it still settles at 1200-1300rpm = very annoying. This is with the idle adjust screw at full adjustment. The issue (I'm told by my engine builder) as that the throttle blades are worn (the telfon or coating of the blades) and they need to be re-coated. I currently have the engine out for other reasons and want to get this fixed up if possible. Trouble is that the throttle assembly looks like it was not made for dis-assembly (there is apparently some crimping in the assembly) and therefore we're looking at getting new from Nissan which is ex Japan and anywhere from $1,000 - $1,600 for the part depending on which part # you beleive (this is being resolved overnight). This is too much time and $$ so wondering if anyone could make a suggestion as to how to handle this? Are there other ways to approach solving this problem? I seem to remember someone suggesting you could spray some sort of rubber to the underside of the thrittle blades and allow it to go off a little and then open the blades so they don't stick, until it goes off completely and then........it doesn't sounds right to me but just provoking thought. Wrecker parts? Any help would be appreciated from those who know reliably how this could be handled. Thanks in advance.

Horn.

Car now sold. Got picked up yesterday. I had it detailed for the new owner and it looked immaculate as it went off down the street. Pity someone from SAU didn't get it.....

Can you hit me up with some details? Price, spec, pics (I'm visual) and realistic time frame to commercially available? By all means PM. Cheers.

I've got a Power FC so it looks like the DEFI's may be the go. Where does the pod sit? LHS of the main instrument binnacle?

Nah, still got one of the 32s. GT3 is not for fiddling with, nor does it overheat etc so gauges are not necessary. Zer Germans built it you see. Would have been easier to give you a joy ride when you were south of the river. Drop me a line next time you're down my way.

osaka imports 54 parkhurst drive knoxfield 03 9800 4041 Just bought one from them yesterday for the same reason as you.

Well I've taken a deposit from a mature gentleman and all things being well and equal this car is sold.

So for the sake of arguement, what about these? Questions would be: Are sensors vehicle specific or is there an industry standard everyone works to? They off an STI What type of workshop installs these? Autoelec or mechanic? May have the engine out shortly (no 300ZX). Is this a good time to be fitting these sucker? Do these having warnings? Will people laugh at me for having blue gauges? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/367741-defi-bf-x-4/page__p__5867864__hl__defi__fromsearch__1#entry5867864 Please can you recommend some specific alternatives and where to get them from? Thanks guys.

GT3 has no silencing but for some large empty cans straight off the headers. It sounds like a figgin race car. Hope I don't get caught....... I take you're point on the location of these, but when ever do you really look at the gauges other than 'when you can' in which case nowhere is a good place, and possibly no good time either! Specially if you've got 3 of them to clock... I guess in tarmac you're always 'on', where as track work you've got the straights to check your stats. I just want some way of knowing my real temps & pressure as as the OEM's are meaningless.

So, I'm not one for having gauges up the a pillar or on top of the dash so I'm thinking the attached fits the bill nicely. Oil temp and pressure and water temp. Black faces and white light, red needles, so pretty much like stock. Any thought on these or suggestion on alternatives. I've done a brief search but can't find much of use. If anyone can point me in the direction of a relevant thread please do so. http://www.egauges.com/defi_info.asp?DP=din_top.html Other questions are best place to buy and what is involved with installation. Do they plug in and use the factory senders and wiring? Cheers.

I'm organising a RWC for a car I'm selling and was more than a little miffed to find out in the opinion of the inspector my zorst was too loud. He's suggested I get it measured and if lower than the legal he'll pass it. I'll do this but to save a lot of friggin around if he's right, can anyone tell me the quickest / simplest / DIY / home brewed way of making the zorst quieter? I'm sure there's a thread so can you link me up? Re the above about photos, I've been selling a few cars lately and all of the above re photos etc have been discussed so I'd suggest it's true. I'm unsure of the exact timing of the introduction but it is tighter now due to a recent change and will become tighter again shortly. Cheers.