bigmikespec

Go Brad! Lets see some photos...

Who makes them?

Maybe they will tell you that... on planet retard

If you have big hands, get smaller ones. Get a cheap 12mm (or 14mm... can't remember) and cut it down to get to the starter motor bolts. Or some stubby spanners. Also, get as many extensions as you can on your socket to reach the top bellhousing bolts. It won't affect ATTESSA. If it is a pull type you need to knock the pin out on the pivot fork from the outside. Get a strong mate to help you catch the gearbox when it falls!

The idea is to block all the OEM oil returns from head to block then plumb a scavenge line into the lowest point in the head, so all the oil must return via this point. Makes perfect sense, not having to rely on gravity and also any other forces stopping the oil from draining out the head. Also interesting if there is a need to use the oil restrictors to the head if the above was the case, would be easy to measure the flow through the galleries to the head and the flow rate of the scavenge section should be available via the pump manufacturer.

Need some more updates Bobby!

Yes they no doubt have a great rep. Just interesting as their A-beam is about 20g lighter than their stock H-beam. So overall a reduced weight of 120g (x6).

Thought I would have my first go at thread digging/revival... Anyone used Carillo A-beams? Or even used a set of H or I Carillo's with pressure feed oiling? Care to comment?

RE: plugging standard oil drains and scavanging from the head some people think it is a bad idea http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/127731-rk-r34gtr-rb30-carbon-race-car-40.html

But if you want to do it "right" you would add a pair of Tomei dumps and a equally good set of front pipes... and maybe do the divider mod on the merge pipe. Edging closer to price of a single.

CNC porting gives people a woody but if the original program is poor and has not been tested in real life you won't get a good result. Speak to Red R.

Who in Adelaide is welding all the Ti pipes... PM if you like. Cheers

Talk to Paul from Red R Racing... got a lot of experience with RB heads! He is starting to (or already has) program some of his proven heads so they can be done with a CNC.

Will piping kit suit R33 GTR?

God almighty she is in rough shape... credit to you mate. Great work!

PM sent

That scraper looks pretty good and not too hard to make really, just a bit of carefully designed laser cut plate that has been folded. On the designs I have seen for the 4WD sump they all seem to be very shallow but I am not sure if guys doing so are taking full advantage and also lowering the engine too. Regardless, I really want to have a go at my own sump pan design... need to find some decent literature first!

Thats right you Peterson do a 1.2" scavange width or a 1.4". I think upwards of 20-25inHg is where oiling issues have surfaced with the V8 crowd (Seppo stuff). Not how it would affect an RB though. Is the standard scraper good enough for use with a dry sump pan? Could you re-fit the same scraper with some perferated mesh underneath and then just modify the sump so it is shallower with pick ups for scavange in the right places?

Scavange sections on dry sump pumps are used to scavange oil moreso than pull vacuum. However, the better pumps with lobe gears can pull sufficient vacuum. The more stages the more vacuum too. You do not want too much though!!!!!!!

My money is on TD05's

I think a good idea is to weld up or block the oil returns that go from the head to the block have a scavange line that comes from the head and tee's in with the turbo oil drain. It was mentioned by r33_racer and seems like the way to go.

What direction are you going now Noel?

Do you have any brackets which support the side pipes or are they just supported off the manifolds?

Inducing swirl and/or taking advantage of it is very common in fluid dynamics and effective. Clever.

Interested in answer to this...