KiwiRS4T

I have explained to you how to use the solenoid as normally open or normally closed. For the rest ref to this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61207-jaycar-boost-and-fuel-control/

You can use it normally open or normally closed. Just use some short bits of pipe and blow through it and touch the wires to the battery and try different combinations of ports until you get the effect you want.

Air cond is a heat pump - transfers heat from the cabin to the radiator in front of your main radiator.

It won't control boost as before.

There is no reason why it should overboost if the hose is secured properly. R32 has no solenoid. How is your bov connected to the solenoid?

Its a cr*p job well worth paying someone - consider getting the cvs done while its apart.

So you're making 422RWkw with a completely stock airbox? - Good to know!

Get one of these http://www.synapseengineering.com/v4/dv/ and plumb it in. I am looking to get one later this year and would be interested to see if it solves your problem.

http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/performance_suspension/performance_springs

Let me know if you have no luck - I can cut my O2 plug off - not used now with the Link.

With some help its a weekend job. Only special gear is something to cut the hole for the gear lever and a welder for the handbrake bracket.

Look for another box ( say from someone who has converted to manual) - should be cheap as no-one can say how long they will last - or better still a manual GTR box!!

Never seen one of these - maybe it was for another car that the owner had! Or its an aftermarket extra? Does your remote locking on the key work?

To check your diff ratio without pulling it apart: jack the car up and put a chalk mark on the driveshaft at bottom dead centre. Drop it down and putting another chalk mark on a tyre where it touches the ground or using a valve position drive or push the car forward one full wheel rotation and then jack the car up and look for the chalk mark. If it is just past bottom dead centre you can assume the driveshaft has turned 4.1 times. If it is not visible (on top of the driveshaft) that suggests 3.545 (R34 diff) and if it is visible half way between top and bottom (before bottom dead centre) that would be the Tomei ratio (not sure what it is exactly).

Its possible. At 110km/hr my car with 4.1 GTR diffs and an R33 GTR gearbox (theoretically same as yours) is doing 2700 rpm. My tyres are 245 40 17. If your tyres are similar to mine you might have a pair of Tomei diffs - I hear they made a set halfway between the 4.1 and 3.545

I'm going to 3.545 myself!

Yep they are the same as GTR 4.111 as is the RS4 manual version from Aug 98. Most other Stageas are very slightly different at 4.083 (don't know why) with the one Stagea at 4.363 (RB25DE AWD auto)

get the biggest one you can from Supercheap or whatever - shouldn't be more than an hour's labour to install - get some quotes if you're worried.Read this even if you don't plan to do it yourself: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/59399-transmission-cooler/

Put an adjustable cam gear on the less aggressive cam and get a good tuner to experiment with different cam timings. Also just in case do a pull with the exhaust dropped.

If you go to the "pinned" threads at the top of this page you will find a guide to buying a C34 Stagea. It applies to the 260 as well. The exception that seems to interest some people is the question of whether it is a factory Autech or a replica (RS4T with an RB26, Brembos etc) and a little searching should help with that.

If you buy the Whiteline pineapples they come with instructions for the different installation options for drag, drift. street etc.

You should be able to sell your brakes to someone with a Stagea or possibly other Skylines etc no problem.

If you have the stock radiator consider taking it to a radiator shop to get the top tank taken off and the core cleaned out (and possibly replace top tank if yours is plastic). The stock water temp gauge is a bit all or nothing so if you are planning on regular track work then aftermarket gauges for oil and water temp and an oil pressure gauge would be a good investment. If you don't get an oil cooler then a good synthetic engine oil will give you a bit more margin of safety.

Shouldn't need restrictors at this point with stock oil pump. You may need a properly set up catch can but if you haven't had a problem so far don't worry.

Here is a Nismo version with Dayz kit and stick on wheel arches! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/stagea/auction-539735834.htm