KiwiRS4T

Rips exports them all over the world - send him an email: http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Have you tried it with the door open? (i.e. nothing to hit at the top of the stroke). Have a look if this helps: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/134380-rear-door-window/

When I had the RB25DET on about 250awkw I had mine dynoed and best result was about 3.5 deg ret from memory and it gained about 8 kw at about 3500 -4000 and a few off the top. And no didn't loctite the set screws - someone posted that they were the weak point on cheap cam gears so I went to the engineering supplies and they said they were already good quality high tensile (had the standard stamped on them) so I just did them up tight with the hex key and they never moved. No reason not to loctite I suppose once you're happy with the tune.

Sounds like a nightmare to me. May be slightly easier if you use a S2 Stagea (neo) transmission as the S1 has the auto ecu built into the engine ecu and is very difficult to modify.

I know where you're coming from! I have a relocation kit, an Earls thermostat and decent oil cooler and still haven't figured out where to put everything - esp with a FF Plenum.

Certainly shouldn't be on the top of your list - especially not with a stock motor - and nor should cams be near the top. When you have done the full exhaust, fullflow air filter, fmic, bigger injectors, Z32afm, new fuel pump, better turbo, upgraded ecu you may find that with an adjustable exhaust gear only you can shift some of your top end power to the midrange.

http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/p/sale.html

Most Stageas brought into Australia will be awd and turbo. Read the section above on buying a C34. If modifying is your thing C34s are easier to modify than the later V6 versions but anything is possible if you have the budget and will. Series 1 C34 Stageas have the R33 motor and have the problem in auto version that the ecu contains the auto ecu and is not easy to upgrade (going manual solves this). Series 2 C34 have the Neo engine and can be Nistuned. If the budget allows start with a 260RS (RB26DETT, manual box, brembos etc) Unless you are dead set on doing all the work yourself you could save money by buying a modfied Stagea from this forum - there are usually a few for sale at any time. Good luck!

Don't be shy! Post your chart up here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/52540-stagea-dyno-results/page__st__580

Some people fit the RB26 cam covers just so they can fit the Mines baffle kits.

If its the first tune be prepared to pay for a fair few hours work. Tuning is a skilled job requiring expensive gear and an experienced operator. A cheap tune can give you less than optimal performance or at worst stuff your engine. If you want to save money (or at least not squander it) make sure you don't waste the tuners time - check all your piping for leaks - have you got a decent set of coils in it? -changed the plugs recently?

Yep that's what I meant by "relieve" the drains.

Yes dynos vary but I made the 260 figure on one of the lower reading dynos in town - \But note - not the same mods as you: 550 injectors not stock Turbo back 3in exhaust not just cat back 16 psi not 11(sorry is it 15?) Decent sized FMIC GTR manual box not auto Top tuner spent 6 hours on it - not 1 hour by workshop mechanic

CAS types: This is an R33 one (Mitsubishi) 23731 02U11 This is an R34 CAS -(Hitachi) 23731 5L 300 I don't think the wrong one would engage properly with the drive on the end of the cam so if it fits ok you could just try reversing the wiring. R34 CAS pin 1 = earth pin 2 = power pin 3 = 1 deg pin 4 = 120 deg R33 Cas pin 1 = 120 pin 2 = 1 pin 3 = power pin 4 = earth And making it easier basically showing that: 1 swaps with 4 2 swaps with 3 3 swaps with 2 4 swaps with 1

Forget the head drain kit. Just drill out and relieve the existing internal drains. If the head drain kit does anything it acts as a breather for the sump and this function is better acheived by drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the sump and running a breather straight to a catch can - which is what I did to solve my oil out of the cam breathers problem (along with 2x 1mm restrictors on an RB30/25). Skim through the last few pages of this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Sotck bottom end will handle 300awkw if tuned right. My S1 when it had the RB25DET made 260awkw with a GCG highflow Z32 afm 550 Deatschwerks injectors and a three inch exhaust (and chipped R32 ecu piggybacked on to the stock one ).

^^^as above quite normal. You will find your fuel rail pretty close to a heat source. My Bosch 044 is as noisy as. Even my work truck will warm up its 300L fuel tank after a while. You can get fuel coolers (quite expensive) or just put any kind of cooler (trans cooler, oil cooler) in the return line if you want.

The neo cam sounds innovative to say the least. Did it fit no problems? You could have used an R33 cas and just reversed the wiring to suit your ecu/loom. Can you tell from the dyno whether the VCT is actually working? I have an R34 LinkG4 in my RB30/25 and use an R33 CAS.

The thing with Eaton Monaco on it will be an aftermarket solenoid presumably controlled by the Haltech to carry out the boost control function and the stock boost controller has been disconnected.

Be a little more specific on your power target - one person's "big power" is another person's "nowhere near enough".

There are three different S1 ecus and thus three different looms. Earliest and most common is the OV300 followed by the OV301 and then the OV310 Series one are Hitachi Series 2 are Jecs. Some S2 ecus are OV810 and OV811 Grab this one really fast if its still available - fully tunable - worthwhile even on a stock motor!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407534-nistune-s2-rs4-neo/

You can still spin out and hit a tree or another car or a lady with a pram.

This is the only link I could get to work. All the others say no such store which makes me think they may have gone out of business. http://stores.ebay.com/DRIFT-MEDIC-WHOLESALERS?_rdc=1

OK if you already have a PFC it may have some advantages over the Nistune but as a matter of interest what sort of injectors are you using? I have seen reports that the ID1000s work ok with the Nistune. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407081-bnr32-nistune-bigger-injectors-help/

Nistune should be fine with big injectors?