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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Let me know how you get on because I have bought a Link G4 (R34 version) for my Stagea
  2. My reasoning is that more than a decade old pump can go from appearing to run "faultlessly" to failing overnight so I would prefer a brand new one.
  3. I assume you still have the R33 loom and plug - here is a pinout diagram (or you can google for others if you habve a different model). Don't know the change over points - its about 1500 and 5000 - someone may correct me - but ideally you do a dyno run with vct on and another with it off and then you can see the ideal changeover points for your engine. http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/7/72...ECU_Pinouts.jpg
  4. I believe that a couple of the injectors are in a slightly different order - I guess you could try to start it and switch off straight away!
  5. You might want to replace your intank pump as well if it is the original unit just for peace of mind.
  6. No I didn't - my apologies
  7. Z32 afm won't work with your ecu - you will have to get a Nistune chip and get it dynoed.
  8. I think you'll find Japan is a bit closer to Sweden than Australia is!
  9. Search - and sometimes ye shall find: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...uses+translated
  10. The only difference I know about is in the positioning of one of the mounting bolts. Some aftermarket pumps cater for this by having a slot there so it will fit all applications. Pumps are supposed to be good for 200.000 so if you are confident about the speedo reading and pump is OK you could leave it til the next belt but if you think speedo may be wound back then change the pump anyway.
  11. If the adjustment is from left to right then moving the bolt to the outside of the car should reduce negative camber.
  12. Check the SAU Traders on this website
  13. You need a tunable ecu. Your next logical power mods would be bigger injectors and a Z32 afm. If you get a Link or a Vipec you won't need the afm and can just get some bigger injectors when funds allow or a good buy comes along. Set your adjustable cam gear at 4deg retarded - that should do until you get it on a dyno when you have an ecu.
  14. GT3540 is available at the virtually the same price as the GT3076 so future proof your engine with the 3540. The .63 housing will give you quicker response and will limit your top end to about 330 or so kw but that should do you. I believe you can low mount them with a spacer on your stock manifold and save up for a 6boost later. I have wastegate coming off the turbo housing.
  15. Do a search - there was an extensive thread. In short they are a great tool but tuners are hard to find in Australia so you would be better to chip the stock ecu or buy a Link or Vipec or PFC depending on what your tuner likes.
  16. A tune is not on the cards until you get some means of tuning it. If you have the money get a Link or Vipec or PFC ...or an e- manage, Z32 ecu with Nistune etc . Depends on where you want to go with more power mods later. Ask your tuner for suggestions.
  17. Some people have been running 280 - 300kw no trouble. Others blow up with 250kw. The most important thing is to get a really good tuner (and don't sit on the rev limiter!!).
  18. I think R32 GTR will be mechanical i.e. need a cable and a mechanical speedo!!
  19. The problem with the Mines ecu is that it is not tunable... end of story. Consider the Z32 or similar ecu with the Nistune chip instead.
  20. Have you got your front bar etc back on? I had to get a slimmer aftermarket thermo fan when I installed my fmic.
  21. ARC = top quality ...what are the dimensions?
  22. Forget the poncams for now- get an RB30 forged bottom end - that will give you heaps of tow and maybe enough power for your purpose or provide a platform for an easy 300 - 400 kw in the future if you want. Reread Duncans thread or give him a call re the effortless power of an RB30!
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