boostn0199

not a fan of the mesh and having a gap stick at the bottom but yeah if you like it go for it end of the day your the one thats gota be happy with it the most

Its not really a question you can put a power figure to and guarantee because you gota have the package of suspension tyres practice to run the car at its best at that power but yeah generally mid 200kw range and a good drag suspension setup wit semis and being pretty familair with driving the car prob will see you in the 11s.

So what the probelm here then if the .82 isnt dropping? THe Pu hiflow is 0.82 right?

400r is the best rear bar nuthing beats it not over the top and not to simple just perfect

At the end of the day IW even 0.82 experince boost drop of some kind of maybe 1 or 2 psi the most reliable way to hold it is external but if you dont want that then just put up with the slight drop as said before it is not the wrost thing to be dropping a few psi from 18 on a stock engine at redline and if stao has a solution with as he has said and it works well then use it but normal acutor and IW your always likely to drop abit of boost off at top

Noway it blew from 14 lol they can take 18psi and up to around 300kw and still be fairly reliable

Id love to do somehting like this but gota wait antoher 1.5month until lincese back grrrrr

You only have issues when you do it without having the car tuned my car was stalling before I had it tuned then when its tuned for no bov it doenst stall and runs well

Yeah thats correct you wont get flat but yeah around the 14 mark is what you will get at redline trent told me the same thing the 0.63 makes it drop down and as you said its not a bad thing to be a couple of psi down at redline

Well a link doenst really help man, cuase you dont know until you try with bodykits lol but looking at price it seems to cheap to be decent but as I said some people have taken a chance and said it worked out and some have said it turned out to be a disaster.

well as you said go custom then itll end up cheaper if your handy with a welder

Its a toss of a coin, alot of people have said there shit and some have said theve got lucky and there actually decent, is it from Aus? I wouldnt get it if its from China or something. Personally fibreglass kits are already enough trouble to fit even if they are half decent so I would rather pay a few 100 more and stick to places like carmate.com.au, just jap , jet speed etc. I have got my kit from psi parts, just jap and carmate and Im happy with the fitment but still some work is needed before your ready to spray but yeah the price was aroudn 450 for back 450 front and 300 sides so quite a bit more.

To rule out the bov block it and see if it helps but should not leak at that boost. I would go full metal intake because it could stil be geting shut on the stright part where you have not added the pipe into. for a quick fix with the coil packs get some bcpres7s if your not already running them and gap it down low until it stops missing just to test it out. Yes it would be better to run a ebc but I have seen the boost tees hold up just fine in high power aplications so I doubt it that so check for leaks aswell. I have a hypergear turbo aswell witha 0.63 rear and it drops off from 17.5 to about 15 at redline and thats with a 14psi acutator but yeah it should not be going to 12 like in your case.

Thats pretty good and also considering its a rb20 with a 25 should be a few 100 rpm less lag

Yeah I can spray no worries ive done my rear skirts hood inteiror and other parts on my other car the question here was I was just thinking if could get it done for 100bux it would of cost the same as doing it myself by buying the paint and time and effort.

So what was the reason for putting the afm in the cooler pipe? Ive just known people do it to get louder flutters but whats the purpose for this

ive pretty much decided your not going to find for $100 so Im gonna paint it myself bought the paint cost me 60

that one going to the throttle is your bov recirc which you dont need to worry about block it off, the one going to the rocker cover is the oil breather you must have that so make a nipple on your new intake pipe and the vaccum one goes into the t peice of the stock boost controoler you can block it off

Chances are its something burning off and yeah the turbo will get hot thats normal , but if it doenst go away tends to point there being a leak and its causing something to burn

its easy just take off the standard intake pipe and make a copy of it in steel and dont worry about making the BOV recirc pipe cause your gona block the bov off just make a nipple for the oil breather anddose away if you want a full dose put ur afm in the cooler pipe

i called dt panels they wanted 350 for me bringing it prepeed and all ready to spray i thought they were budget lmao? I wonder how much they would of wanted if I said fit and they had to prep it and yeah Im not after a show room finish just a acceptable one so no runs and stuff but you get what I mean

thanks

Well yeah my budget is 100 which is giving them the front bar on its own all prepped and ready to spary if its over 100 then I might aswel do it myself cause it will cost me like 60 or 70 to buy primer and paint, might give dt panels a call though as Ive heard there prices pretty good anyway give me a number?

From what boost is it dropping to 12 from? on mine it drops from about 17.5 to 14.8 on redline its more due to because of it being a 0.63.

If you want i thinks its simliar to the r33 stock pipe but anyway one 90 degree bend and one 45 degree bend if you cant weld silicon clamp them in the middle and you have your intake pipe