pipster11

bought some yellow paint from supercheap (guessed the colour) and finally painted the rust under the mirrors and the knock on the front bumper just loading it up atm for the trip to tassie on sunday to the guys with the heat shielding, round the corners on the sheets and they will be less likely to peel off

these should fit r34 gtt with a spacer on the fuel rail, just need new plugs but they are only about $10/pair

my aunt in canada has had that for years also means that the heater blows hot air as soon as it turns on

spotted this for the pm35 (s2 m35's) http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=686764

if i did it again, i'd get one of the asi radiators from ebay same quality as cooling pro (ok for china) but about $100 cheaper oh, and i read about the auto heat exchanger, you only need it in cool temps or your fluid will not warm up if you have an external cooler

it will fit i have one in my s2 with the stock shroud but as above, you will want the auto warmer

i'm curious to see if it is an upgrade for an rs4s

what diameter is it?

played my first bit of online the other night used the m3 gtr race car but the limit was 700hp and it was at 703 with the only removable mod the high rpm turbos without those i was down to 550hp :-/ still managed to beat someone tho

yeah, i think mine had a bit of play front to back too, but fine side to side and up and down

i have seen said cocksmokers actually stop and wait for a gap

i use the premise that nissan tuck the lines into places that don't get damaged easily its also a lot neater and saves going through the firewall i've got some wiring from a battery relocation so i might use that (about 4 gauge)

sau doesn't want me to get updates it seems lillcrash, if you can come up with a top plate design and punch some out, thats the hardest part then ship the ~3 pieces to everyone and get them welded up locally and buy some steel/alloy for the middle something like this (just a rough knock up of what could be done)

shall dooooo might add a few seeing as the sub is grounded to the body

anything r34 gtt or r34 gtr

that would be good if you could, not sure what kind of wizardry the fuel system has on this thing i must have been typing at the same time as you i'll run another wire along the fuel lines/pipes (under the car), worked well for the amp wiring then use the stock wiring to trigger the relay might look into a gss-341 whalbro as it looks like the easiest to get into a stagea housing hope this is the issue, though i'm not sure why it would cause the ecu to shut down, only other thing i can think of is the turbo timer playing up (turned it off yesterday so maybe instead of kicking in for a split second its letting it die)

so cut the ground and re run it to the chassis? might also check for rain water in my ecu cables, its never bothered it before but we had some rain last night and i didn't check the footwell yet might run a relay off my sub cabling for the 14v rewire thingo can someone check how many volts their stock pump gets at idle (s2 owners preferably)

we still have dual speed i think will do, i took the whole thing out and it had a funky setup (float on one thing and fuel pump inside a box of the floor of the tank, fuel return ran back inside the box) will check the ground tho, thanks for the idea

but its designed to use the oil at ~90°c new cooler first drops the temps from "too hot" to "warm" then your actually taking heat from the coolant and putting that back into the trans oil it takes the load off the radiator core and regulates the trans oil better have a look at any stock 2 cooler setups like on most commodores, pretty sure its edit: after a mid post research http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Cooling-the-Trans/A_109772/article.html this guy says in hot temps you can just bail on the stock one but if you see cold temps you'll want the aftermarket unit BEFORE the stock radiator one

thats about normal if you see my car parked down the road come and see if i'm there and i'll take you for a spin, i bet mine is worse

tried to go to wet and wild today went to take off and if i accelerated too much the whole car died instantly drive soft and it was fine, too much throttle at low revs and it died (ecu powered off, ecutalk display shut off) key off and back on and it was fine again so i pulled out the fuel pump to look for a clogged filter but it wasn't too bad put it back together and it was better, 3rd gear full throttle was fine but 2nd shat itself once on my test drive but was fine apart from that one incident at idle the fuel pump was getting ~7.7V (is this low?) i'm thinking that the fuel pump is on its way out, or the voltage dropping system thoughts? (afm voltage was normal, ~1.2v @ idle)

wouldn't you put the new cooler before the radiator loop? the rad loop is to regulate the temp of the fluid so you'd want the aftermarket cooler to drop the temps and the rad to bring it up to the correct temp

i ordered the nissan ones, the are like 10mm and 1mm pitch i think i just hoped that they would fit and they did SB 1010 is right i think

i won the mazda furai the other day not the most powereful (~450hp) but it only weighs about the same comes with fully adjustable everything, its pretty quick :-)

that ride height doesn't look too bad get a dayz front bar and it will look even better (will look exactly like mine)