Birnie

Okay, still not definately sold (damn close though) Had questions about marks/scratches. Very slight scrathces, what you'd expect from being 2nd hand i guess but nothing major. Gotta look close though. Had a definate offer of $350, a few others that were trying to haggle a bit but i didn't say anyhting about postage. Soooooo, whoever wants it for $350 and will pay postage (or pickup), it's all yours.

Got a 2nd hand SAFC-II for sale. Had it about 3-4 months and is as new condition. Looking for $350 ono. Also has the stand which I haven't used yet. And the box and downloaded/printed instructions. The blue screen model, 2nd editon Has the joystick controller (not the 4 buttons) Advantages of the 2nd editon is the knock sensor and also 2 different file settings to hold 2 tune ups. Currenlty in my car and can be viewed still attacthed and working near Circular Quay on either Thursday/Friday/Saturday. (I'll be working but should be able to give you a look if interested in buying) Upgrading to the Power FC Cya dudes... (won't be replying tonight but online all day tommorrow)

I think there's one in the for sale section, someone wrecking a car. Full ECU for $100.

If you sell some stuff off, I'm keen on the FMIC and Power FC.

I weighed my rims last time they were off and they were 20.5kgs front and 22.5 rears. Light weights are around the 5kgs + tyres aren't they? About 10kgs all up maybe? i dunno. Anyway, is there much performance gains noticed by this upgrade? Cause apart from the obvious weight advantage, you'd also get the less weight for the rear wheels to spin up which surely would make a difference to your power cure. Not neccesarily the top kws but a fatter curve cause you must be able to get there quicker. Is this a correct assumtion and if anyone has done it, did it feal much different? :headspin:

I know a few people have this popular unit as i have. Does your unit inside the cabin seem to get really hot? I have the Rev Speed Meter which gets a little warm but not to much to concern me but the SAFC seems to be quite hot! twice as hot as the RSM. Surely this isn't normal. How does everyone elses run? Totally cold? warm, hot???? THanks..

But if i was getting the piping custom made it would be ok wouldn't it??

Aw yeah, and if anyone happens to have pics of their GTR intercooler on a GTST, please post em up, behind the bar pics that is.... Thanks again...

Howdy peeps, Would like peoples opinions on intercoolers in 2 areas. 1) I can get hold of a GTR 2nd cooler and installed for about $950. Should i go for that or get a kit thru nengun like the V-SPL brand new for $1300 and install myself (maybe) 2) If the GTR cooler is bought and installed, is running the piping back under the cooler back to the origin piping the best option or better going thru the "hole in the wall" method. The distance looks almost the same. Thanks guys....

Been in one as a passenger and one thing is that they are small. My legs were at full stretch with my knees hitting the dash and bum/seat as far back as they could go. I'm 6'1" which isn't overly tall i reckon.

Sorry to invade the thread but i like looking in here every now and then. jake32 - PwerFC + HC at nengun would be around $1300 delivered. Also a guy had em on ebay.com.au from GosfordNSW for $1300 but they have gone up since then (that was only a week ago)

Well, i don't know how a Type R would compare but for NA, how about an FTO. THey're about the 150kw mark

Best bet would be ebay and earsch world wide, not just AUS. There is one there for $160 + $18 delivery. Probably about $260-270 all up Or www.flyn.com.au I think they are Parra area but they have delivered to me hand to hand before in the city with zero delivery cost. And whatever they say the price is on the site aint necessarily the final price, might be cheaper. (might be, not sure) Email em and ask Birnie

Love to know how it goes too. Post some pics and a rundown and how you think she goes..

Don't have one but that looks about right when looking at this.... http://www.hybrid-power.com/installation/b...instruction.pdf I think this diagram is for the latest version which i think is Ver 3???? With the funny pattern on the face.

I think the XR6 Turbo would kill the XR8 if built to its capabilities but Ford wouldn't want it to kill off the sales of the XR8. that's what most Aussies love ( i said most not all) Also, after talking to a salesman and going for a ride, he said the turbo starts at 5psi and winds down to nothing in the high rev range. now if that doesn't leave room for mods, what does! Oh and some more, i know pretty much nothing about which turbo is which but I've seen mine under the hood, and the Ford one was in easy view and just by eyeballing it, it looked pretty big!

Well i can't comment on the EBC's but everyone that raves about em are usually the ones that were converted from the bleeders so they should really know. But for the price of a bleeder, they are damn good value i reckon. My Turbosmart being $80 second hand and holds 10psi great on the dyno. It did go down like BHDave said but only about 1psi and the pressure curve was still very flat and constant. Ease of use is great! Very easy! And easy to install. I reckon go the bleeder for now and learn about what's happening with the behaviour of the car then go the EBC when you think you've got it all sussed out. So, 1) Performance and 2) functionality are sacrificed but i don't think by that much. but, 3) cost and 4)Ease of Use are right on!

Any idea how much difference one of these would make? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...2480171516&rd=1 And what do you think of the price? Is it good value? Anyone actually got one installed? Any info appreciated....Birnie :flamed:

Dave Letterman had a good skit on it. Wednesday - Everybody dont buy petrol day Thursday - Everybody buy twice as much 'cause of the day before.

I've got a bit of a question for the second pic. The boost levels seem to fluctuate about 1psi. Is this normal with an electronic boost controller??? I thought it would have been dead level. Nice power though!

Hey people, Replaced my gearbox oil the other day thanks to the DIY threads here. Next on the list is the diff oil but i can't find anything on it??? Is it pretty similar to the gearbox? Screws looking the same (the square ones?) And what type? Thanks.......Birnie :flamed:

No, i didn't mean that. He says in the opening staement about whether to chase HP or KWs. I just wanted to point out that they are both measurements of POWER. I realise power and torque are 2 different things but KWs = power and HP = power, just using a different measurement scale. Clear as mud yeah?? Like psi and bar are both measurement of pressure and in that sense are the same thing. So if someone said "should i be going for 14psi or 1 bar?" its the same. Or should i be chasing 250Hp or 187 KW's???? Its the same thing. Well i know what i mean anyway...weehee !

Also, quick note that HP and KWs refer to exactly the same thing...power measuerments. I'm not sure exactly how they are measured though. Just like Gallons and Litres are both liquid volume measurements.

Join up and you get one included in your pack. Money goes to a great cause adn you get your sticker.

Hey peoples, Finally installed my SAFC-II (all except the air/fuel mixture wire to be safe) and I've decided to go with Unigroup after reading peoples feedback thru here. I sent an email for a quote and they sugegsted around $150 which is what i was expecting but they also said they might manually retard/advance timing through CAS/distributor???? I assume they can do this?? I don't have any fancy Cam gears or anything? Do i know what I'm talking about???? :bs!: Oh yeah, nearly ran up someones rear from watching the throttle and revs go up and down.....must concentrate more! hehe Birnie