robbo_rb180

had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........

Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.

The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)

Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?

Best practice for any track day should be Bleed brake fluid, inspect rotors and pads maybe even flip pads if they are prone to tapering. Quality pad (project mu, endless, hawk, winmax, ap), Good high carbon content rotor (dba4000/5000, Ap, projectmu), Quality fluid, Good air supply over the rotor and caliper are all required for best performance at a track day no matter the car. Even the bedding in of the pad and rotor is key to longevity. I've seen so many rotors destroyed on their first track day due to it.

They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.

I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.

AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig. I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.

Welcome back, If looking for a quality workshop AK Racing are the go to for everything these days. No fancy socials or attention seeking just quality work and good people. Can do everything from general servicing to full race builds that do very well at local and international events.

I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.

probably around the $1700-1800 fitted in his sizes. The ar1 is heaps cheaper. Get on scumplace I got some A052 295/35/18 for $400 that had done maybe 20-25 hot laps of SMP.

Go the CRS, cheaper than the A052 and same if not better 1 lap performance when suspension is dialled for it. If wanting to do back to back laps the A052 and can cool off and go again next lap will be the better option. I have gone quicker over 1 lap with CRS than the A050 I came from but may be due to getting more seat time. I am driving CRS on the street lately in different conditions and its going well, a lot better than AR1 in the wet. AR1 is a race tyre, CRS is a Hill Climb/time attack/Sprint tyre. 2 different things, a slick is on the way too. The mighty gay mods choice of tyre is proper rubbish for those that actually drive on track not park at bunnings at night.

stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.

Been over 2 months since I have done anything on the S15 and had a day off today so got stuck into mounting the radiator and intercooler. I ended up using factory bottom mounts as bolted in and I did order some gktech top brackets but didn't work with the PWR radiator so made up some with aluminium flat bar. Spent way to long on them but pretty happy how they are. Next job was the intercooler. Used some more aluminium flat bar and did the bottom mounts first. Top was easy as just one long piece and 2 90 degree coming off rad support and welded them on. The bumper support required some notching to let the outlets sit where I want so will add some reinforcement later to strengthen it. I have also bought ecu and waiting for it to arrive. Went with a Link g4x Xtreme but will be adding a ptmotorsport expander to add a few extra inputs over CAN. Went through a few different configurations on pclink to get what I want to allow future expansion for sensors and gearbox upgrades. Ordered gktech rear arms but looking at the hardrace lower control arms to have some extra adjustment too will see how the alignment looks after first setup. Got 2 more weeks of work before shut down and will have almost 4 weeks to work on this so planning on hopefully firing up mid January. Also bought a 2015 brz with a heap of good gear, did noosa hill climb a month back. Owned it for 3 days changed alignment and sent it. Finished the weekend 2nd in class and only .3 off the 180sx best time last year. MCA Red coilovers, gktech rear lca, bolt on lock kit and tie rods, whiteline toe arms, cusco 1.5way diff and 4.5 ratio, endless brake pads, headers, exhaust, perrin intake and e85 tune. Electronic steering adjustment, nankang crs with koya wheels 17x9 +35. Have bought rear traction arm and relocation kit, extended studs and v3 tie rod kit. Planning on also getting flex tune as lucky to get 300km a tank with e85 and short ratio. Car is a heap of fun to drive and super easy to work on. AC in the line up at Noosa was mint in 35degree weather.

If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.

Could you run an air drier inline to help with trapping moisture? I have heard some of the stories with the rules and that but I did have a good conversation the other week about the changes and possibility of another event in the USA at a famous track. Waiting for the rules is a pain as I am trying to sort final bits of my car and want to know where I fit in.

Yeah, going fast in this thing is all about keeping momentum. Field had some very good drivers and cars. It doesn't help that it was previously setup as a drift car so has 7kg springs all round which isn't great for a hill climb. I was only a few tenths off so.e quick guys in evo lancers and a v8 exotic cart thing.

NA not planning on boosting it. It's my reliable street/fun car while I build s15

I'll leave this here Owned it for 5 days, changed alignment and its .7 of a second slower than my 180sx up Noosa hill climb. Mca reds, cusco diff and short ratio, e85, some gktech arms, endless pads and Nankang CRS Tyres. I beat a gt3 porsche with an experienced targa driver too.

Best bang for buck at the moment would be a 86/brz. Good chassis, plenty of aftermarket support and parts everywhere. I just picked one up with some quality gear and it drives better than my old 180sx. Also depending on what your doing and budget. An a90 supra is my pick if want to spend more. Great chassis, solid motor, gearbox is good. Development potential is crazy. They are doing well in prod sport and time attack. All the old jdm stuff needs alot of work as most of it all bent and over priced.

The r34 gearbox is like $3400/3700 landed from Japan sometime last year. Contact jessestreeter.com for info and quotes. From memory the navara gearbox needs input shaft machined down as I looked into a while back and there's a thread somewhere here from 2018-2021 about it. Depends on what your doing with the car maybe worth the dollars to go cd009 or a 8hp50/70.

Nothing I can remember from memory goes there. Just holes for grab handle. Maybe there for left/right hand drive same section for manufacturing to be easier.

I did a pretty ruthless clean up before I left townsville. If it wasn't a part to suit a car I currently have it was sold or binned. I have all my stuff organised in big tubs with lids that stack from supercheap and bunnings depending on who was cheaper at the time. Parts were sorted by either chasis/motor/Fabrication/general/electrical. I have a mezzanine that's 7mx2.3m and all lives up there. Easy to access when needed and out of the way. I also have the issue of selling and dealing with scumplace/marketbook was actually going to list stuff today but couldn't be bothered as been stuffed around too much. I generally let a few people know I want to off load stuff and people pass it on to others to contact me, generally easy sale and I'm never looking to make big dollars. Rather it gets used than go in the bin. Next clean up will be around Xmas and if doesn't go on the s15 it's going bar 2 sets of wheels.

What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry. Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction.

to be serious there is plenty of good racing out there and is generally shown on Blendline TV https://youtube.com/@blendlinetv?si=IVqWM4QFdqRsG12S The speed series was alright at QR a few weeks ago. The production car enduro and TA2 were good to watch.