scotty nm35

You mean the rubber part? I should have a couple. I can't see that being an issue, it is just an airpath unless there is a leak, but the way the AM intake slides together could be a problem I guess.

Never had mine intermittently missfiring, sounds like a tuning issue to me. If the afr's are rich it can blow the spark out and foul the plugs.

It's not aac, iac or any other idle valve, it is a purge solenoid for the fuel tank. As you are stuffing around with the amount of air getting into the plenum it may help anyway, but I wouldn't touch it.

What do the plugs look like? Take a pic if you can. That should tell the story.

I used teflon stainless braided and made up some nice underbody clamps. If you want hard lines I think stainless might be your best option.

I have a spare booster, but do you have a pic of the actual part you require?

I agree to a point, Castrol react srf racing fluid in the Evo got me to 20 laps of Sandown before the 800 degree pads turned to lava and sprayed all over the rim. Still had good bite though, not very spongy even when stupidly hot. Fluid plays a big part, but be careful mixing brake fluids, always run extra through to flush the old fluid out.

Oh, no KU36 please, they aren't a great option. I really like my new Bridgestone RE002/003's, great wet performance even in torrential downpours when you would normally be aquaplaning like mad.

Any silicone on the turbo gaskets will turn to powder in no time. The permaseal T3 gaskets are OEM quality, never had an issue with them.

Well CRD isn't seat belts, no idea where Chris got that from. At least Matty will be scanning it first, yes?

Try Amayama UAE, likely half the price. That will only get you the facia by the looks, you will need the aircon control panel too.

If the car felt stronger pre-tune, then Jez likely took timing out of the midrange. Most tuners will do that to protect the engine, these VQ's run a lot of timing off boost, and it's hard to talk a tuner into leaving the timing in there.

I always wondered how much that join leaked, I guess a fair bit.

I agree, my A1RM's were shot after 3 laps or so of Phillip Island in the Stagea, but that is an 1800kg wagon with R34 Brembo's and 350kw. Great pad for spirited road driving though, mine don't make any noise, and I have never had an issue on the road.

No idea, why would you leave it unplugged? At a guess it could, as the solenoid is likely open at idle.

It sucks vapours from the fuel tank, through the carbon cannister.

Exactly Tony, I have removed and repaired a few myself, there is even a few Youtube vids of G35's to follow. Save yourself some cash and fix it yourself.

If the car won't start, just replace the cam and crank sensors. Most likely they are the issue, not the solenoid valve. Not sure what you mean by solenoid valve. For parts, try Amayama UAE.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BTJFJ4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000HE8HAY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=03CJAYFFKWJZ02F2ND8S The trans thermostats we used? Those ones linked, but there are heaps of different designs, most of which take up a lot more room. Loading up the radiator by fitting coolers in front of it will not only make the radiator ineffective but overheat your aircon condensor too. Shame there are no side ducts.

If the high pressure pump is the issue I have a little trick to repair some of them. Probably best to PM me if the intank filter change doesn't fix anything, I can work you through a few possible solutions before replacing the pump. Yep, sounds like DET, not something you want going on inside your engine. I suspect it's likely why the original Japanese owner ditched it at auction. We get all the screwed cars over here for that reason, I think it's very expensive to fix over there so they cut their losses.

Not overly hard, but it's in a prick of a spot on the back of the head.

I suspect the issue is the high pressure pump on the engine anyway, but change the low pressure intank filter first and see if it helps. You might want to test the intank pump while you have it out, and like I said, replace the tank Oring, they aren't expensive.

For the intank pump you can follow the G35 pump installation guides on youtube.

Pretty common for the high pressure pump to 'fail', but you will find it is likely just the filter inside the mechanical pump I suspect. There are aftermarket pumps from China, not sure how good they are, but try replacing the little filter basket first. Also there is a fuel filter around the main lift pump intank. Likely it is the original one, so it would be a good idea to replace that, and make sure you replace the tank lid Oring at the same time.

This is funny, mainly because Ethanol/Methanol is the treatment for most moisture issues. There is no way moisture will ever be a problem in a sealed container, and even if by some chance you managed to pour a cup of water into the drum, or left the lid off in a rain storm, the ethanol would quickly absorb the moisture and get rid of it from your tank, rather than letting it sit and rust. That amount of water evenly distributed in the tank would barely change the tune, I doubt an AFR gauge would read the difference. I have used 2 year old United fuel from a customers car, he was too worried to run it and wanted me to drain the tank for fresh fuel to tune with. I poured it straight into the Evo running 32psi, no issues. AFR's perfect, ethanol percentage within 1% of what they were originally. If you tried that with 98 you wouldn't get far, hence why I am so amused when this discussion pops up each few months. I've been running straight e85 for over 7 years now, never changed back, never touched my fuel system, never used stabilisers either. The only down side I have noticed is less K's to a tank. Any other ethanol myth is generally false. I prefer not to run the ethanol content sensor at this stage because as GTSboy mentioned they can lead you up the garden path, and it's another sensor to fail affecting the tune. Dan, if you need it I have my old E85 205L oil drum I never use anymore, it has a servo hose and nozzle fitted. If you are interested I can send a pic. I just use 20L's these days, but I have 4 United servos selling e85 within 5 K's now.