scotty nm35

Perhaps the engine is knocking because there is low fuel pressure, due to a blocked fuel filter? If it detects crazy knock it may throw a code...

It will be the wheel bearings I suspect. Front wheel bearings are a common failure.

Nice one Adam, did you pop the bung out to stop the water building up?

Having the fuel map reliant on one sensor would stress me out a little. Perhaps if there were two pressure sensors in comparison I would be happier, but after working on electronics all my life I have little faith in anything electrical long term. Will you be using wideband correction or protection also?

Realistically any MLS gasket needs a nice smooth surface to seal properly. But if the block is already built, I would just spray some Hylomar on the gasket. Might work fine Dave.

And what model car you have?

Sounds like there is air in the system, or a leak perhaps? What codes is it throwing?

A single 460 should flow 430-450kw at stock base pressure, in a manual, on e85. That would be a much better option than those $50 Chinese e85 pumps everyone is flogging. ^^ Worst case you could lower the base pressure a little? I am about to try the 325L short Areoflow version in a customers car so I will let you know if we have issues, I just wish the Walbro 460L would fit in that one. I would prefer to run a Walbro 255 than the Aeroflow, it will likely run out of flow on e85, but at least I know they are long term ethanol safe. Stay away from twin pumps unless you have some way of knowing one has failed, especially with generic pumps like those Proflow/Aeroflow/Raceworks etc. The warranty won't replace your engine, only the pump...

It can, but that would put the stock ecu into limp mode, which would cause a knock on effect of loosing functionality. We needed a setup which retained all stock drivability without throwing any codes, similar to the Fcon, hence keeping the stock ecu in place and happily running the cams and throttle as per OEM, which is working as planned. We will likely be looking at aftermarket control of the cams and throttle down the track, as this ecu does support it, but it will require a standalone auto controller or manual conversion, which is more than most can afford. Do I think tuning the EVCT from stock will transform the tune? No. I doubt it would be noticeable, at best 5 or so kw in the midrange from my discussions with a few tuners. Perhaps using aftermarket cams it may help more, but the stock gearbox is at it's limits with the current crop of highflow turbo's anyway, even the 350z 6 speed would struggle with the torque I suspect. The fact that a fixed timing and fuel map can now be used with 2 step launch and flex, hopefully ditching the unreliable AFM and fixing the gearbox line pressure issues, things are looking promising. With the upcoming turbo spool improvements the days of laggy launches should be behind us. Near instantaneous boost on the stock converter should be achievable soon, and I for one can't wait. 300+kw and stock like response is the goal we are working towards, and it should really improve the 1/4 times. Keep you posted.

Yep, I would appreciate it. These little changes can really cause problems with a top feed install. It should only be the larger part that needs .1mm removed, the Oring grove should be ok, you might just need a thinner Oring. Let me know if you have issues.

Best to ask in the Stagea section Maddie. There are many different options, and all of them could be fitted to the base model RS let alone the Axis.

Shouldn't be too hard to machine down Callan, sorry I couldn't supply something that works. I did know the Freddy manifolds are different, but they were larger from my experience, I just supplied a larger Oring for the adapter. Seems yours is smaller so as you say, quality control is shite on those Chinese plenums.

I have seen plenty of stub axles rusted to the hub spline, but a bit of WD40 usually frees them up. Have you tried heat? I should be able to help you out if you need something Ben.

Seriously don't bother with the cable throttle, I originally had Josh's throttle on my car and although admittedly it was with the emanage, the Fcon feels so much better. The throttle response is instantaneous with the brake cut, the only lag is due to the large plenum size. It took me quite a while to sort out the cable arrangement and weld bits on the pedal in the correct spot too. I am definitely sticking with the electronic throttle now. By ditching the electronic throttle the ecu is in limp mode, meaning the cams need to be controlled by the standalone. This will likely never be done aftermarket as well as the stock ecu can control them. The Link Fury with plugin loom is now tuned and running perfectly in Rick's car, no errors and everything is stable. We will post a vid soon. It's the first standalone other than the Fcon to be successfully installed without losing functionality or or that factory drivability, as a standalone should be, and this one can be tuned by anyone without knockoff software.

Bob is on the money, just get a full set of whatever tire you are buying, even if it means getting a cheaper option. I have changed enough front tailshafts to know they are prone to wear without this extra unwanted vibration and loading, there is no give in the Attessa system, (there is no centre diff), just a clutch pack that binds the two axles together essentially. Something has to give and long term it will be the front uni due to it's small size. The other option is to drop the front shaft for now and drive in RWD until you can buy the other pair.

Personally I wouldn't, just run the same size tyres to protect your attessa clutch packs and driveshaft uni's.

There are two models as the navigation model uses the dash for CAN data, to display the leaf etc. I think either should work in the non nav model, but don't quote me.

No, my setup is overboosting, unfortunately I only have a 3 bar sensor which means I need to keep the boost under 28psi. Using these heavy spring actuators and a stock housing that's way too restrictive, the exhaust gas at that power can't bypass around the turbine fast enough, meaning the shaft overspeeds. At normal power levels the wastegate flows just fine. Just a simple drawback of highflow internal gate turbo's. Tao controls this using the wheel sizes, but it is subject to change depending on flow obviously. To me this just shows how efficient the compressor wheel is, and seeing the boost isn't dropping off, it likely has a lot more to give. Seeing I want to run more boost, the lack of wastegate flow isn't much of an issue, the map sensor is. I was hoping to fit a 4 bar sensor, but that would mean remapping the fuel table, which would be added tuning time I can't afford. I have a Link to tune soon...

So you know the 360 degree thrust bearing needs to be bolted down, (and mind you your knockoff thrust has the holes in it already to enable this easily) and yet you failed to do this, even though you knew the oil flow to be a problem? Was this a simple cost cutting exercise at our expense? I paid for a turbo that I could push hard, this is definitely not the case. Why didn't you mention this when I was bringing blown turbo's to you asking for an answer to these issues? The Intense highflow has no wear problems, so essentially the failures were due to you failing to tap three small threads into your core. The way you trial and design turbo's is plain wrong, and relies on the customer to cover any flaws in your design. I won't be fitting any Hypergear turbo until I can see that the quality has improved for myself.

There are glaring and obvious reasons for the failures of the bush cores you designed, highlighted by the fact everyone I take the SS2 to can't control their laughter. (mind you I only wanted to find the source of the noise and balance it so I could sell it on.) The wear on the thrust assembly after a few hundred K's is substantial, and I can only recommend anyone using your bush core limits the boost to under 20 psi, at least until the thrust assembly is looked at by a reputable turbo builder. Quite happy to post pics if you like. This also explains why the rear bush didn't receive enough oil, and why most of the failures have likely occurred. Shame on you for making me do all this fault tracing on my own Tao, you should have warranted your work in the first place and worked out these issues yourself. I just hope your Rev 25 BB core is of better design. I can't be recommending any Hypergear highflow anymore due to these apparently simple to remedy design flaws which cost me my sanity and more spanner time than I would like to remember. As for numbers, you have some catching up to do...

Should be 12mm copper I think Matt, might be worth replacing both sides anyway if it's leaking.

There was another issue with your setup if the Walbro 460L stopped, they are nearly bullet proof Ashley, and flow substantially more than the 044's. Don't bother with the highmount, if you externally gate the turbo the stock manifold will flow 450 odd kw with better response. There is plenty more in your current setup by the looks.

Wider by an inch or two, meaning there is a substantial amount of cutting for the shroud and fiberglass front.

Illuminati, big pharma, oil barons... No it's probably just the bogan majority that want us to stop beating their V8's.

I have a spare low K box here, but do you have any idea what fluid is in the box at the moment? If it has a teflon infused oil such as Redline shockproof it may just need a good flush and the correct grade of gear oil. The teflon oils are well known to clog the syncro's. I can suggest a good gearbox reconditioner, the synchro's are only $100ea, but it won't be cheap for a full rebuild. Give me a PM if you like Craig.