scotty nm35

Nathan, if it is boost cut I would expect the MIL to light up. I wonder if the AFM was clamped correctly... As I said I have no idea how they tuned the HDI mate.

20 amp seems a little small seeing they draw 25-30 but the smaller you go the less spring they have, which should fix the issue to some extent. I posted a solid state relay circuit to feed 14v power to the relay coil recently, but I notice there are relays for sale with the solid state input incorporated into them these days, for this very reason.

You could remove the gate and use a compressor to test it? I doubt you will get it on that much earlier with a highmount manifold, but make sure the VCT is operating, that will improve the response a fair bit. z32 needs some mods to control VCT I seem to remember, is it Nistuned?

Worn transfer clutches? Snapped transfer chain? Driveshaft missing...

Don't tell everyone, I will never have any spare time. Haha.

10 micron will block quickly I suspect, requiring constant cleaning or replacement. I would suggest 30-40 micron, that's what I run using Xspurt 1000's, I haven't touched my filter or fuel system for 6-7 years on e85.

You relay is melting internally, seen it many times. The coil on large relays needs over 12V to hold the contacts in hard, the car is only supplying 8 or 9 volts sometimes.

Like Ben said, there is something wrong inside the valve body of the transmission, and that means $$$.

I have a few, but I am only using those cores for customers of mine purchasing the Intense turbo's, part of the service unlike most highflow places.

My Turbosmart is fine. Sounds like you are trying to tune the car with the BOV.

Agreed, the stock hoses are fine. Cars have been manufactured to handle ethanol fuel for many years now. What brand hose did you use Burn?

20psi on the bench will be bugger all on the road. It takes roughly 70psi to fully open my Turbosmart gate, the Garrett I last used cracked at 30. No way you will be able to run high boost if it cracks at 20. I really hope he bolted the thrust washer down for you Matt, even that old cast wheel will cause some thrust load, and you don't want to be changing the turbo again I suspect.

You forgot the most important step... 'insert ghey rismo stickerz'

I had one for 2 weeks, the missus thought the car was broken. Do you really want a defect that bad? A screamer on a VQ doesn't sound the best, plus you need a very expensive external gate setup to vent the exhaust gasses to the ground. I plumbed mine back pretty quickly, there was no loss of power.

Haha. follow the compression rod from the bottom of the hub Matt, back to the body, you can see the large bush taking the rearward load of the hub. Press it out and replace with a Superpro poly bush.

Well, other than the MAP sensor boost cut, the rest is based off airflow, so every car will be different. Bump up the boost and see how she runs, shouldn't be too hard to find the sweet spot. If you are running a highflow, that boost level may be less than stock.

Could be the pump or fuel filter, but more likely the spark plugs, or just water in the IPDM, that's where I would start. Faults like this can get expensive if a mechanic is involved, especially if he hasn't worked on VQ's much.

Only for Nismo fanboi's. Plus... Discontinued. Legalis R is the go, quiet and flows way more than most will ever need.

Your stock pump is 15 years old, I know I would be changing it... It will require decent wiring, a fuse and relay to install properly, Walbro pumps don't like the low voltage supplied during cruise and idle. Just remember, peak power in some cases might be almost triple the stock power and 30+psi, most highflows would still outflow a stock turbo by around 3000 revs. Plus when looking at the curve, having the torque converter locked Vs unlocked makes a fair difference. In manual mode it's trying to lock, in drive it is unlocked. All my results are skewed to look laggy, as the converter is locked, where as I drive on the street with the lockup clutch disconnected for better response and gearbox longevity.

It really depends on your goal but I prefer smaller diameter runners, 6-2-1 with less merge area to keep the gas speed up. This may restrict your top end capabilities a little, but most don't need 800+kw of flow anyway. Don't forget, the wastegate path is just as important as the turbo, the incorrect angle off the merge may see you struggling to control boost without a 60mm gate, and perhaps limit your top end flow unnecessarily.

I wouldn't go much wider than 9 inch personally, it won't help with tyre width anyway if you have to run 225's stretched to enable turning at the front. Better to fill the guards with larger wheels than lower it too much imo, the front subframe gets pretty low when you drop it, and ripping cats eyes off the road isn't fun.

Are you able to select NTSC over PAL? That is usually the reason for the lines isn't it?

Sorry I couldn't help with repairing it Brendan, I suspect there is way too much damage to bother pulling it down and replacing parts. Slap a wrecker engine into it, will cost a lot less than rebuilding the one you have imo, and a lot less work.

I hope you guys aren't using those cheap knockoff MAP sensors off Ebay. The Greddy MAP sensor is the most important part of the Emanage tune, and knockoff sensors seem to be the cause of an engine failure or two.

Sounds like the CV boots were split a long time ago. I'm sure I have both front shafts on the wreck, recently rebuilt too. PM me, I will check them out and we can work out a price.