scotty nm35

Take the grill off Matt, it is usually next to the horns unless someone has moved it.

A standalone ecu 'fixes' it as you have full power shifts, but it isn't the throttle causing the issue, it is the timing curve. Timing backs out of the map constantly, like when gear changes are about to occur. A throttle controller just changes the resistance of the pedal, like you put your foot down more. It feels like you are flooring it when you only have your foot down 1/4 throttle. All that will do is make it harder to feather the throttle. I used to use one to go the other way, to deaden the throttle for economy, but it only felt good on boost. If you could actually program the curve to make it more responsive off boost and less once the turbo is spooled it would be perfect, but as far as I know no such controller exists. TLDR; it's a toy. Part of our response issue is the massive size of the manifold, it takes time to replace the vacuum with atmosphere.

What you are seeing is simply the difference between a locked converter and an unlocked flaring converter. The difference is called lag. If you feel you are unfairly disadvantaged by a higher tyre profile to that extent, everyone would be running 22's for the response. That is just nonsense. You have a lot to learn about auto's too it seems.

Fair enough, keep learning your way into turbo development at the customer's expense... I would have been happy if the thrust would stay where it was supposed to instead of using some cheap arse spring I can easily push forward with my fingers. Anyone with half a brain can work out why the backing plate is wearing, a part that should never see damage. Reducing compressor size is your answer to everything, unfortunately that reduces power output, hence why our Intense turbo flows more. What makes me laugh is that ours is more responsive than either your bush, Garrett or Ceramic bearing cartridges, and that is only our first bush core design. Just wait a few weeks more, there is something special coming.

Luckily I don't pretend to be a turbo guru, I have professionals taking care of that for me these days, specialists that don't need to guess and test shit out on my car. 3 small bolts will hold the thrust washer down nicely, that's why there are holes in the 360 degree washers if you didn't know. (even in the Chinese copy version you run...) This in turn stops the oil pressure dropping off and starving the shaft bushes. Perhaps you need a training course? Dale, pass some of that popcorn around.

I asked you many times to supply a Garrett core, your answer was always that the manifold pressure would cause excess thrust load, flogging the bearings out. You were correct, as many of the other Garrett highflow cores around can't handle higher boost levels either. I hope you are mentioning that to your current customers... My engine is stock, and while I have had my gearbox rebuilt, it is by no means a built 2 speed powerglide. The converter has extra lock up clutches, and I am running extra line pressure to handle the torque at my previous 350kw. I have built enough M35's to know 300wkw is attainable on a shift kitted stock box if you don't go frigging around with the lockup clutch and TCU. You caused your own gearbox issues here mate, perhaps you need a better mechanic. I have great boost control, if you don't want to run 30psi, don't run a 27psi actuator. Pretty simple. After seeing our Youtube vid of the stock actuator versus our aftermarket actuator opening angles you suddenly realised the issue? Please don't pretend you worked that one out for yourself, you simply copied our design with Chinese parts to undercut us.

I can only imagine who told him that, in desperation. Hypergear have a good name, unfortunately the way you treat a customer is remembered long after the turbos have failed. We gave him many opportunities to repair or redesign his turbo's, we even tried to work with him to develop something that would work on the M35 long term. In the end we had no choice but to develop a baller turbo elsewhere. No need to make up crap to sell our turbo's, they sell themselves.

I may have one, can you post a pic with the part number?

All the V35's and M35's flood, it's only a problem in a storm or driving after one. The compartment fills up from water off the windscreen and doesn't drain fast enough, or at all. Nissan made a bad mistake with the drain design. Try it out, use the garden hose on the passenger side of the windscreen and post the result.

I doubt it will make much difference at that power. No panel at all made 20kw difference compared to an old dirty one at 500awkw.

I have bled them using a Vac bleeder, but if the motor isn't running you have bigger issues.

Fuse blown or removed? Could be the power relay for the attessa too, I think there is one for the pump motor and one for the ecu.

Sounds like the relay has water inside it. You may be able to remove the sealed lid and use contact cleaner to disperse it.

Looks like your IPDM is flooding, have you popped the bung out from under the battery? they commonly block and cause the compartment to flood.

Your only real option is Nismo's, and they aren't cheap. Anything larger than 550cc is a highflowed or drilled injector. Probably best to go top feed modern injectors. Have a look in the Forced Induction section for top feed conversion info.

AP wins patent infringement case against Alcon http://www.speedville.com/ap-racing-patent-case/

At idle I wouldn't expect too much change, but I had the reg vac line pop off at the track a few times in the Evo, I did the whole track day at 32psi on United ethanol before realising it was running 16:1 at full noise, all because I forgot to cable tie it. Talking with my tuner about why the engine didn't melt, he tells me the exhaust temps actually drop off after stoich on e85, unlike petrol that gets hotter. Perhaps there is less to worry about these days on ethanol anyway? I know it has saved my Stagea engine more times than I can count, like when the wastegate open hose split and it ran over 60psi. I'm about to fit a Link Fury, should be able to run all these sensors and protection soon, including 4.9 wideband and flex, just struggling to find a tuner that wants to put the time into setting it up. One of those things you need to do yourself I guess.

You can usually get a little more acceleration if you push the pedal to the floor, but only a little. Turning the ignition off and on can reset the fault, I had to do that while driving down the freeway a few times when using dodgy pedals sensors. Been in limp mode too many times to remember.

The 2.5L doesn't have NATS does it? I thought only the 3.5L needed NATS key programming... Anyway, I suspect by now it's either fixed or burnt out down a dirt road.

There is no throttle control relay. I suspect the Autel is having issues reading Japanese. Sounds like it would be easier to find a mechanic that knows these engines, shame you are too far away for me to help, but I suspect the front wideband O2 sensor is buggered or an injector is blocked.

I have various parts too if you need something, the M35 usually faults with pressure switch issues, I have a couple of units here needing repair or for parts. Pretty sure they are the same Attessa unit right through.

Just unplug it and leave the light on? I can't stand Nissan's 'wobbly wheels' personally, and suspect it increases the chances of cracked subframes, but some people can't drive with LSD diffs in low traction conditions I guess.

Would love to Chris. Where to?

Yeh, non Hicas subframe and then ditch the dash warning bulb.

No. just cut the wires and solder/heatshrink