Kinkstaah

I'm waiting for HFM. I still have sets of pads (current road ones which do not fit properly, and the track ones which do) for my Attakd/Stock setup currently. It's entirely possible to be able to get more, but it's definitely not as easy as "Oh I have a 370z, give me pads for 370z". When I spoke to HFM about it, they advised the Z1 won't be exactly the same as the R34 due to the offsets being slightly different? They also stated that the threads in the Z1 are aluminium, whereas HFM use a stainless steel helicoil insert which I'm a fan of. That and they modelled their kit on the R34 specifically, which I have... in Melbourne.. where I am. I was just jumping on this before I have to buy a new set of rings for the front kit, which while they are a bit heat warped, aren't that 'worn'. But now I have two sets of rotors and 3 sets of brake pads for the 370z Akebonos. So basically I'm set for life in regards to brake consumables now.

So nothing has happened because nothing needed to happen. I am waiting on parts to arrive for bodykit reasons, and as we all know, this takes a very long time. But everyone likes some misadventures, so here they are. I had a mysterious squeak appear from the engine bay. I thought the worst and thought it was cam chirp or something along those lines, but figured I would check the belts first as that's what everyone says to do. This belt was 2500km old. I've replaced it with a slightly less-torsioned belt this time. I had heard you needed to be unable to flex a belt more than 45 deg, so now I know it's "About 90" it hopefully will last longer? I also snapped my key in half opening the boot. When replacing the serpentine belt, I noticed this windscreen issue too. Not to worry! The belt is no squealing, I had 5 spare keys, and insurance will cover 1 free glass. .... so it became time to call the people responsible for panels and paint very urgently. Good thing Optus wasn't having a nationwide outage that day when I was stuck outside with a car with no windscreen. Luckily the chain of "I know a guy" found a body repair shop that can clean this out/sort it/paint it/warranty it courtesy of a group of old gents with a bunch of bare metal restored holdens-in-progress at a very very fair price. So end of next week - may be back on the road with a windscreen and less rust. I did also talk 'Workshop 2' into accepting the car with paint and panels for early next year. This arrived with my new future front bar for free, which was nice! I also bought a brake kit on advise from Dose, because I was somewhat tired of trying to find brake pads for my Attakd brake kit (which is not identical to G2/Ksport) With extreme patience (and paint thinners and a toothbrush) I was able to take these: To this: No, I did not respray them. Yes it would have been probably more sensible to sandblast them and repaint them. But after awhile I was just happy to be able to do it by removing the later of awful red paint the previous owner had attempted to paint it all with now if HFM would release their brackets, it'd be great.

If the unread feature was working, I would have seen that thread! (I searched for my own previous thread)

@PranK this has become re-broken my brother in christ. I believe it happened in the last ~week or so.

The Nismo clutches are amazing. Get the twin plate if you plan to go over 300kw. The Nismo single plate's max is rated at just about 309kw/415whp.

Off topic (but also somewhat on topic as I have a URAS kit in my living room) If nothing sticks nor bonds to this, how exactly does it get fitted to a car/blended in with other panels (in the case of their rear overfenders and the like)

This is just inefficient. Yes yes, its a bit silly me having the N/A car saying "But to have an engine without a turbo is just inefficient and dumb". But I'm standing by it, and we're all various levels of dumb anyway Would make more sense to have a high revving N/A Honda in there.

Why would you do something like that? Someone actively wanting a N/A RB is just the smoothest brain take on earth, cmon man you deserve better :p

I have the nismo leather knob which I would also be happy to sell for $5500.

Frank and Michael are still around, and are still great. However, like most people who are still around and still great, they're very busy. So you may have a 3 month wait purely because of the backlog of things they already have on the go. I always say a blown up RB is a 1 year process :D. But to be fair, my experience with Headspec was quite a lot of waiting until they got to my job, then when they did - it was completed in a couple of weeks. So I suppose there's plenty of work for competent engine builders out there.

TBH in my experience with the Jaycar module was a little different. I was using it in the middle of the car ECU to the cluster. It worked, but it only kicked in at about 30-40kmh. So anything under that would read 0kmh. It was also delayed. It may work for something int he same family that it just needs to do something like 'halve' The dakota digital one worked perfectly in my application, and can be used for many, many, many different inputs and outputs.

I did say it'll take awhile - This is why I put the V8 in, going through blocks like it's going out of style it became economical and far more modular going forward. It is after all a niche, Japan only car that arrived here in VERY limited numbers by people grey importing them. An engine explosion in a RB is about a 1 year sentence on average, no matter what scenario you're actually in. I repeat:

TIL (I have an adjustable fpr...)

I think the problem is that paying $500 each guard for a piece of plastic is a bit odd. Given 100% of wheel setups carve big holes in them anyway. One would think there could be an aftermarket alternative that provides more clearance or is cheaper or is made out of aluminium or some shit (there's not)

never miss a chance to do an upgrade when you need a repair.....

I surely do not know, but I want to know because I will have the same problem with my R34 soon. One would think someone has made/could make/has solid advice for how to go about making these before I just make them out of something wildly unsuitable and get sad about the whole scenario.

I mean, this is literally one of the main reasons I did the swap back then.... haverb30blockpricesgoneupbysimilarvalues?

I'd guess it's tricker being in Canada. these days people snapped up the R34 GTT boxes that Nissan reproduced as they were still available new for awhile. You may have luck with a CD009 350/370z gearbox being USA based. Surely easier* to find than a R33/R34 manual gearbox. It'll be fine (ish) under stock power, but if you want to upgrade things its worth doing the research and collecting parts in advance. Luckily there's not a lot of smarts to contend with and your upgrade options are limited only by your budget, really. You'd want to read up on the wiring differences between the N/A and GTT with regards to the autobox. If you can read the workshop diagram you will be okay as it's definitely been covered before. If you're going to need a shop to do it though, it may be tricker unless there happens to be a local R chassis shop in Ontario or nearby.

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE. IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE. BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD. https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT. This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

Just... lower the boost? There's no reason you really have to upgrade the turbo. Oh no, you have to set your rev limit to 6000 because you're making 315kw at 6000 now instead of 7500. Remember the size of the OEM turbo on OEM displacement? It doesn't magically kill itself the first time anyone revs it out to 7500rpm in stock configuration with stock boost either. I haven't done the math (and I can't tbh) but I'd wager a RB30 with your highflow has a "bigger turbo" relative to it's displacement than a RB25DET has a non-highflow turbo. Truthfully there's quite a few options here. I know what it's like to panic and get angry about it but there is no fast fix for this. So take time and think about where you want to end up and what you want to end up with. It's expensive now, but you'll actually be paying for this months after christmas most likely. There's time to save. Your bottom end that is mentioned above, but 1-1500 for machining, and 1-3k parts, still getting near that 5k mark. Similar to old mate selling his 25det bottom end for 5k. Getting someone to assemble it obviously costs more and is only as good as who you trust to do it. You also don't know if someone is going to sell a motor a month from now (for example). Take a step back, breathe, it happens. It sucks, but it happens.

How dare you, I've been through this pain so many times to make it as simple as possible lol. I'd still think a RB30 is going to be as simple as a RB25 bottom end. Surely? Right? People lose their minds over a 200cc stroker. Why not 500cc? This is gonna take more time and more money than you expect, no matter the option you go with. I reckon no matter what you do it's gonna end up being mid 2024 before it is running again. Why not do that with a 3L :D. How much more _is_ it? Surely worth investigating.

The joke was Dose was attempting to sell his complete car, and I joined in too. My gut feeling is to tell you to actually go RB30 if you get the head cleaned up. Never turn down an upgrade opportunity when something breaks... it makes it more bearable 😛

Why would he buy that specific RB25DET NEO when he can buy the solution to constantly exploding RB25DET Neos... with similar extras? 😛

Pull the head, then if it truly is okay, RB30 with a mysteriously similar engine number to your current windowed block. Failing that, just buy someone else's car and part out. You'll probably save money, given how well modified cars actually sell vs stock.

I'm with you 100%. The SR20 was using 256 degree poncams, and no matter what turbo you threw at them, they always had this curve to them. If we have to choose "Joy for our $" then I'm with you on a RB running a relatively open 7163 on 98 and loving life and just turning off instagram and pretending it is 2007 where this would be an incredibly insane setup. I think the 7670 is too big for a 25. It was great on a 28 but lets be real, I was running 19psi on E85. I was barely stretching it's legs. I did one or two aborted runs (splitfires were giving up) and I was making 430+kw at 5000rpm. That all sounds good on paper, but the truth is it's well beyond where anyone would want to really run a fun, street, usable, daily, repeatable thing on an unopened motor. To make the most of this thing, you will be running it close to max RPM. It's a 500KW turbo. Everything is a consumable at 500kw, built or not. I remember Scotty in the past talking about how the GTX3071 was a better unit than the GTX3076 for this reason too. There was also a lot of rumblings favoring the GTX3576 over the GTX3076/GTX3582 too. People love running things at 11/10ths for exhibition purposes, and then that filters down into "You should get this result all the time, forever". Then people run them at less boost, on 98 etc and suddenly they are a bit laggy. Well no shit, if you are running 13psi there instead of old mate running 28psi there on E85 then you will make less power, and be in a different efficiency island as well. It is similar to people buying Hypergears and then not replicating Tao's setup. I'd almost say get the open T3, bolt it to the stock manifold and see how you go for simplicity's sake. As always, think about what you want, then get the turbo for that application. People do not always speak long term about how these choices go out for them. Choose the least painful option, and it'll still be plenty painful enough!