GTSBoy

But this is reasonably easily fixed by lowering the front mounts on the LCA.

I didn't call it bunghole. That was djr81, who actually lives here. I'm just stuck here by a combination of a shitty project and the border being slammed shut for the majority of the last 6 months. I call the place Bunnabama. Also sometimes Buntuckey. You're right about the water sports. I entered my first ever long distance open water swimming race on the weekend. I've never been so fit as I have this summer.

It's not unreasonable to expect that once fully divided, any little difference in the performance of the two turbos would compound on themselves. For example, the dump pipe layout is not the same on both, so the turbine vs. wastegate flow could differ, meaning that the same ex manifold pressure would provide a different amount of turbine drive. Then, the rear turbo has to pull its inlet air through a longer pipe, which adds restriction and also more heating, so it won't be pulling the same density air as the front.** The turbos then flow to separate intercoolers, which are unlikely to be exposed to the same ambient air flow conditions (likely one up high and one down low, with the bumper reinforcement, difference between intercooler grille opening and upper grille opening, etc etc) leading to them running at different temperatures and heat soak behaviour. Air then flows to 2 different plenae, with potential for more of the same geometry related issues attached to the turbo locations. Shuffle all that shit together and it might average out, or the problems could add together in the same direction and make one half of the engine work quite differently to the other. If running to the same boost target (2 separate boost controllers!) then maybe one will have 10° hotter charge temp than the other because the compressor is working in a different part of the map, or the intercooler's not doing as well. And then that reports to the exhaust flow which closes the loop and possibly adds further reinforcement to the problems. Two turbos....OK. Two intercoolers....OK. Two plenae? Probably not OK. V engines with twins and separate intercoolers have usually retained a single plenum for a reason, I suspect. Plomp all the air with different characteristics into the one place (the whole engine) to eradicate the possibility of the 2 halves of the engine migrating away from each other in terms of their performance. ** I mean, shit, the fact that turbo shuffle is already a problem indicates how differently the 2 turbos already work in the stock arrangement.

Why is that a problem?

Z32 calipers (without any sort of dogbone spacer to push them out to suit a larger disc) suit a 280mm disc. With a spacer, these can be pushed out to suit 324mm discs. Same with R32. R33 calipers suit a 298mm disc. These are seldom spaced out because it is hard to do it decently. R34 calipers suit a 310mm disc. I have never seen these spaced out. The differences in these radial dimensions are all in the legs of the caliper. The body of the calipers are almost (if not actually) identical.

Could be collapsed radius rod bush. Could be something bent, from an arm, to subframe bolts. There is no adjustment for caster on stock radius rods. Take it to a chassis specialist for examination.

I've been here so long that I now have to choose between a facial piercing or a neck tat if I want to keep getting let into the Rose Hotel.

Le sigh. I shall do all the f**king work then, shall I? from https://www.bmwblog.com/2020/09/02/how-bmw-twin-power-works/ BMW TwinPower Turbo is relying on a single turbocharger with two scrolls BMW TwinTurbo Power (yes, this one exists too) relies on two turbochargers Granted, you have to read past more than half the web page's bullshit dumbo BMW customer spoon feeding bullcrap to get to the one useful bit of technical information. But when you, buy, it's a f**king doozy.

It's worse than that. I've been stuck in Bunbury for the last 8 months anyway. As to the hubcaps - I'm wasn't sufficiently familiar with the movie to know what cars are in it. Apart from the car chase, the rest of the movie is shit. I'm not about to do any research to look for a car in it that doesn't even have those hubcaps on!! I've got infinite hours of youtube videos to watch first. But.....are you sure that they are Charger hubcaps? The do not look anything like Chrysler/Dodge hubcaps of the late 60s (which were universally pretty f**ken ugly!). They do look a lot more like GM product of the late 60s.

Nah, they actually use both words, in both orders, to mean two different things. One order means twin turbo, the other means twin scroll single. They is classically f**ked over by marketeers. Engineers would tell them to go f**k themselves if they had the balls and the corporate power hadn't been usurped by the business school grads.

I'd concur with that guy ^. You wouldn't ask less than 80. You should probably consider that mods don't really increase the value much when up at that sort of price level. It's completely different than when the base unmodified car might have been $30k, and the mods would let you ask over 50. I don't think they will let you ask over 100, just because.....the whole "standard is desirable" aesthetic that is now in play and so on.

I just say "double your first estimate and then add the original number".....keeps people busy thinking for a moment while I walk away.

Hi Mal, Australia is 3 time zones wide. So, I'm only 8 hours ahead of UTC right now. Post any photos you like. People here love photos. 66 Mustangs are great because they share the same long nose short deck 2dr/coupe profile used in most Skyline 2drs. (More to the point, Nissan stole the look for the Skylines, Toyota stole it for the Celicas - it is such a classic profile). Don;t stress about causing anyone any work. I was only looking out for you because you announced that you've got no idea what you're doing on the 'net and thought that you might not be aware of the risks of exposing too much personal info. You have to manage your information leakage. You wouldn't reveal details of how your car is garaged, for example, because someone might be able to string bits of info together from various sources and plan a theft. People put all sorts of dumb shit up on bookface without thinking about it, and once the genie is out of the bottle, you can't know where it has gone. As to the hubcaps.... if forced to make a call, I'd say 67-69 Camaro or Chevelle.

In terms of kicking and screaming into C21....I'd suggest not posting up personal identification information on the 'net if you can avoid it. You never know how it might be used against you with all the scammers and identity thefts, etc. I'll report your post to the mods and ask them to redact it, unless you're happy to leave it there. Always comp test before tearing a motor apart. Just in case you learn something that stops you from having to do it. Taking the rotating assembly out of the engine with the engine in the bay is not fun. Not recommended.

Yeah, unrelated to AFM being unplugged. Possibly not unrelated to the work you were doing, as you could have dropped something. Would be interesting to know where the noise originates. Upstairs, downstairs, not inside the engine itself?

Sorry Mal, I have no knowledge of Skyline/Stag stuff in the UK. I only interact with anyone in the S/S world through sau. This is probably still the largest collection of old knowledge and active users on the 'net. I am bothered by the suggestion in your earlier post that the engine was damaged by running it without the AFM plugged in. It is usually perfectly safe to do so. Are you sure that this is what caused your problem? And what is the problem?

This is what the RB25DET box looks like. Many ribs, much bulk. Anyway, this topic has been bashed to death on here, even given that fact that your gearbox is "unique" to you. Here's an example, where a gearbox that looks like yours seems like it might be a Z31 gearbox. Go down to webber's post.

Um....no? That's just twin scroll single turbo, isn't it?

Fixed that for us?

It's either A, B, or C! I reckon that there's a better than even chance that it is the same as the original R32 auto crossmember, whichever of A, B or C that is. If it is not, then it is definitely one of the other 2. FWIW, I have RB25 box in R32 that was originally auto. But I'm thousands of km away from the car, so cannot check for you at any time in the near future. Could be months before I get home.

I don't like it. Lower it 75mm and change the wheels to something extremely chrome.

I search any forum using google. In a google search box type something like; "site: sau.com.au manual conversion flywheel" or "site: sau.com.au manual automatic spigot" or "site: sau.com.au AWD sump" I do this because the inbuilt search engine on many forum software can be a piece of shit, not find everything, has bizarre rules about minimum number of characters in a search term, etc etc . SAU's search is not terrible and you can use it (search box is in the top RH corner of every page), but google is more thorough.

Hi Mal, What Christian says is perfectly true. There is >25 years of such information in thousands of repetitive threads on here. Searching will always find stuff. Short answers to your questions are: Turbo engines are not great when run NA, as they are low compression. But you can bolt NA externals (manifolds) onto turbo engines, and vice versa. Search using such terms. Auto and manual engines can be swapped. You need to put the correct spigot bush in the end of the crank. Search using such terms. Swapping sumps between 2WD and 4WD engines is not straightforward. The pan rails are different. Search again. My recommendation? If your NA RWD engine is not healthy....rebuild it. The days of being easily able to find spare engines for any of these cars are long gone, so the lazy/cheap approach is getting further from viability every day.

Splitfire are indistinguishable from new proper OEM coils (in performance, not appearance). The only reason they were an "upgrade" originally (20 years ago) is that it was hard and expensive to get hold of new OEM coils. Then it became possible to get OEM coils at a reasonable price and it was an each way bet. Then the fake OEM coils started to f**k that situation up and it was safer to stick to Splitfire if you couldn't be sure about the OEMs. That's why I say "OEM or Splitfire" (and usually say to stay away from the other rainbow parade aftermarket coils).

Just fix that one? And don't tell me it can't be done.