GTSBoy

Unlikely. That globe will draw 3/5ths of f**k all current. The problem is more likely to be that the current (added onto) wiring is f**ked up or your attempt to reinstate the light is f**ked up in some way. You could do that. There's plenty of power there to run something as small as a boost controller - although keep in mind that the power for the solenoid passes through the controller and is not a negligible amount for some solenoids. Unless you have lots of other stuff running off there or a massive amp in the headunit, it should be fine.

Not related to the squish pads. Different things. If that's in reference to what Dose said about thicker head gaskets, then also missing the point. 'Twere me, I'd be looking to increase the amount of squish in a modern engine build. Not decrease it.

Squish pads produce; A required (read as "desirable") amount of turbulence in the mix right at the end of the compression stroke. This greatly improves mixture distribution and mixing at the point where it is getting ignited, leading to obvious desirable improvement of pretty much all the combustion parameters of interest. A reduction in the surface area of the head and piston facing the flame at and near the moment of ignition. The tiny little volume of mixture trapped in there is a better compromise than the otherwise exposed but narrow corners all the way around the rest of the combustion chamber where it meets the edge of the piston. Small combustion chamber volumes and decreased surface area should cause improved resistance to detonation, rather than the commonly held opinion as expressed by R32-25t above. Which is not to say that once the usage of the engine is pushed waaay beyond where the OEM engineers expected it to be, that perhaps the hot edges of the squish pads do trigger detonation. I'd be willing to believe the improvements in ignition triggering, ECU accuracy/speed and fuels (ie E85) have probably exposed the old belief as being more of a band-aid for problems with real causes elsewhere.

Take the compressor to a Nissan dealer and speak to the service manager about seeing if he can help identify a similar unit from another late 90s/early 2000s car. Ditto at an automotive airconditioning workshop.

You don't need an LSD oil for the front diff. You can use one, but normal diff oil will do the job fine and more cheaply. You do need an LSD oil for the rear diff. Assuming that it is the stock LSD, then you don't likely need anything particularly pricey/special. Again, any normal (ie Castrol, etc) LSD diff oil will do the job. The Cusco (and other) "special" diff oils are usually designed with all sorts of additives to help tame the shitful clunking and chatter that many of those aftermarket clutch diffs exhibit.

There's not really anything you can do to upgrade the internals of what is already a pretty strong and quite rare gearbox. Once you exceed what the Getrag is good for, you're firmly into the aftermarket boxes.

There's no more tensioner visible in that photo that in your original photos. See my reply to your other thread.

could cause lean. almost never fail in any meaningful way. My 25DET Neo will cruise at ~400°, pre-turbo. Literally in the turbine inlet. Max load is ~900°C.

Yes, but they still look concerning. Viz the circled examples..... All of this looks very unimpressive. Got some closeups?

Yes it is correct. Whenever a cylinder is on compression/firing stroke (ie, #1 in this case) then the other cylinder that is also at TDC will be on the exhaust/induction overlap.

Could be cam timing, as above, ignition timing (too retarded) or lean. All are bad.

Access it from the LHS (RHS as you're facing it from the front), from underneath, coming in sideways. It's a bastard. Probably have to remove the intake pipes.

That's called overlap. Top of exhaust stroke, beginning of induction stroke, both valves are slightly open. Exhaust is closing, inlet it opening.

What is the ECU telling you?

No, what we're saying is that the ECU is telling you there's a problem. The ECO knows more about the problem than we do. You should ask the ECU, as per Nizmo's post.

Just get the one that says it suits RB25DET.

Well.....there's your answer right there.

Absolutely. But get the wiring diagram first and look at it and understand what does what first.

Wouldn't be the sensor. It's clearly a power issue at the dash. There is no power involved in the speed sensor - it generates its own power. No. It's a wiring/connector/fuse problem. Get the wiring diagram, look for the common power or earth that could cause all these things to shit themselves at the same time.

Yes it will be fine. It's just manifold bolts. There's almost no physical difference.

Now....that's not quite true. PranK is always nice. I'm frequently grumpy.

If you google for R34 manual you will find a working link to download it.

Do you have the wiring diagram? If not, get it.

Of course it's at the switch that you touch with your fingers.

Those cams be f**ked.