GTSBoy

I was thinking in terms of making sure a copied cam would work with the original HKS controls. But otherwise, yes.

Just get the master that you have resleaved. Take it to a decent brake shop and hand it and a small sum of cash over and come back for it the next day. Street car? The Intima pads are pretty good. RS front, SS rear works for me.

Well you could try fitting a fuel temp sensor or faking it with an appropriate resistor value and hoping that that is the only cause of the trouble. If it were me and I wanted to spend the least, I would buy an RB20DET ECU with Nistune fitted and use that.....except that if I was at that stage I'd now just buy a Haltech or a Link.

I was just thinking about this and figured that the grub screws would have to have been possible to copy if you had access to an original HKS cam to see where they have to go. I was thinking of shrink fit steel rod/stake/plug. But grub screw + loctite is just as good.

I think it is very likely that there is a significant problem with the ripped up Z32 ECU. That whole approach is so substandard these days that you should just abandon it unless you have the gear required to try to work out what it is doing. (Which is fairly basic workshop gear, a wideband, decent timing light and/or CRO, etc. Hell, if it was properly Nistuned, at least you could look at it in software.) Bin it. Put in some modern injectors that are big enough to be useful (like, EV14 based 1000cc from a reputable source), and start again.

Why would tutorials need to be current? Anything posted in the last 30 years will be the same.

Yeah. You can't just throw wrong sized injectors in an change the base pressure and have it work on the stock ECU. It will be wrong everywhere else. And what drugs were those f**kers on, putting 330cc injectors in? The stock 25DET injectors are ~370!

Suggestion from left field!

What the hell does that shit do? What the hell can that shit do, in that location on a rotating cam? Do they add some Hall sensors or something to pick up position?

Take the opportunity to get rid of it altogether and put coils with integral igniters in, along with an upgrade in spark power. Use Yaris coils for a cheap smaller upgrade, or R35/Audi type coils for a big fat upgrade.

Use the verniers to measure the distance between, say, 5 threads, then divide that number by, say, 5.

I'd like to think that their cam blanks would have enough meat on them to put any reasonable profile on them.

It might be cheaper if you buy 6.

Even a set of verniers and some squinting will do the job.

Or, you just buy a new cam from Kelfords with similar specs? Probably better than butchering the original HKS cam.

Nah. A little from column A, a little from column B. That 100kg is worth time. Every other thing that could be different, from tyres to wheel alignment to happiness of the LH rear damper will chuck further confounding factors in. You might suck. He might suck just as much. Hard to tell.

It's not the plugs you need to change, apart from the gap. And if the Splitfires won't support a larger gap, then you need bigger coils. Small upgrade to Yaris type or large upgrade to R35 type.

The cost of copy engineering instead of proper engineering.

I'm not the only one that can't see the video. Note that bearings generally have a sacrificial tin layer. If the scratches are just in that, then they could be OK. But, as above, if the intention is to make a lot of power, then no doubts should be built into the engine as assembly time.

Is it hanging out in the breeze? If so, why? And no, you could not hydrolock your engine by getting the filter wet unless you drove it through a swamp. But a wet filter won't flow air.

Only about the 4th most frequent question ever asked on here over the last 25 years. The CASs are effectively the same thing. Just the pinout is different. Swap a couple of wires and presto, chango, it works. All searchable.

What?

You destroyed something electric. You can't find it. Take it to someone who can.

Auto electrician diagnosis recommended. He needs to find the smoke and put it back where it came from.

Yes, because the outer part of the pulley can slip on the rubber so that it no longer bears any relationship to the inner part (and therefore the rest of the engine). Pull #1 plug out. Find TDC firing. Mark new TDC on pulley. Plan to replace pulley immediately if the original mark is somewhere else!