GTSBoy

Won't happen in a good way. Any GTR that sells for that much in AU will be leaving our shores.

When you say "stripped the nut".....Do you mean that you just rounded the nut? As in, you've just damaged the flats? Just replace the nut. The bolt looks like it is fine.

Just use the R32 GTR manual for guidance.

Yes, which is good, but not great, given the Dodge design is, what? 10 years old?

The record.......looks like..... a beer coaster. Woohoo!

Yeah, and there will be free blowjobs and Chiko rolls for every buyer for 10 years. Noahhhhhhhhhhhhttttt!

Fixed that for you.

It's very unusual. Taillights are usually 5W. Some are brighter at 12W. But a 21W globe is real brakelight territory. Brakelights are always much brighter than any permanently lit rear light, for obvious reasons. I would be tempted to distrust the Narva et al listings and possibly being contaminated with false data from some common/root source. Go ask BMW directly perhaps?

This thread is like the annoying whine of a mosquito while you're trying to sleep.

Fixed that for you. Yes, the gearboxes are different (NA cf. turbo). The length of the box and the output spline, obviously. Yes, the front half of the tailshaft of an R33 or R34 turbo will go into the box. But I changed your quote to say R34, just in case there is a length difference between R33 and R34 tailshafts. You need both the spline and the tailshaft length to match. It's also why I said cut and shut in my first reply. It may not be strictly necessary in this case because of the possible and likely existence of a tailshaft piece that already suits (from an R34, possibly R33). But when you do this into an R32 you have to cut and shut tailshafts together.

No. He's starting with an NA gearbox. It's a DE + T

No. Tail light globes are not 21W. You put 21W in burning ALL THE TIME (when the lights are on) and you will overheat the housing.

21W is brake light, no? Tail lights are meant to be lower?

Fairy 'nuff.

These will be at least 10k more than the 370 (when they were new out, not now that the price has fallen), because twin turbo. There is some danger that they will try to gouge by creeping up under the Supra's price point (ie, make it >$80k) to make it look like good value by comparison, even if they could reasonably sell them in the 70s. Arguably, they could make more money if they look like a bargain, simply by selling (and servicing) more of them. But.....weird decisions get made. The Yaris GR is debuting at $40k and will be $50k minimum (for the base model - the hot model will be >$10k more than that!). The Yaris might even be a faster car than the 400Z, but the 400 is still going to want to position itself upmarket from a scungy little hatchback. So, easily >$10k more. That makes it at least 70, possibly 75.

Wrong globes?

i think the rear will look baller in the right colour. A v. dark red or black would be ace. Black would also camouflage the size of the front grille for those that are unhappy with it. I personally think that big square and simple (like it is) is much better than most other manufacturer's efforts lately (I'm looking at you, Lexus). It looks like the guys who were responsible for the aborted Silvia reboot were allowed to take out some of their frustrations on it. Very Z, plus very taut/tight stretches on it.

Why so? It was my understanding that pretty much all the main benefit from ethanol (in terms of knock resistance and hence ability to add boost or timing) is in by the time you up to ~40-45% ethanol. Everything thereafter being much smaller benefits.

Kudos, JustJap, Amayama, Partsouq, Nissan Australia, Nissan USA

eBay

Neo ECUs have a weird VQ map tuning method that significantly differs from the earlier ECUs. Once you push them past "boosted stock" it starts becoming harder to defeat the various protections/annoyances, and rescale stuff. I put one into my ECU and I went through the effort of rescaling the load and rpm scales to expand them, all years before it stopped being necessary to rescale (because of changes that Matt made to how Nistune handles the K factor), and I think I have a handle on all the protections and stuff. But I'm only running 12 psi on stock turbo. If I ever get around to wasting money on a bigger turbo, injectors etc I'll suck it and see and it will probably be fine. But the experience of many is that it becomes harder and harder to get things right.

Did you know that Adaptronic was bought by Haltech recently, and despite promises to the contrary, it seems like there is less support than there used to be. The guy who started and was Adaptronic works for Haltech now as one of their main ECU designers/product dev guys. His focus must have been moved onto Haltech stuff. Or at least it appears that way. I would use Nistune (on a Neo) unless you're looking to run quite a bit of boost or power. AFM remains easy with Nistune - just put an R356 card AFM into the intercooler cold side pipe. But there are other tuning unpleasantnesses on Neo ECUs that can make life a bit hard when you push things a bit harder. Otherwise in Oz, yes, Link or Haltech. Haltech if you're into the cool-aid. Link otherwise.

Cut and shut tailshaft. Same as for every such swap.

You got $5k?