GTSBoy

Literally 10x easier to take said car to the exhaust shop and point to it and say "Put a muffler in the middle of the pipe and a muffler at the back, please." Cost is the 2x mufflers and some time and some welding. The front end of your existing exhaust is already proven to connect to the manifold flange, and the thing is already connected to the hangers. No doubt or worries required over whether it will fit, because it already does. And the new mufflers don't need to be hi-po or stainless or annointed with the tears of virgins. It's an NA RB20 single cam - so broadly equivalent to a 1999 Corolla in terms of flow needs. Buying a kakimoto cat back is the very definition of overkill and woftam.

The plug is clearly the VCT solenoid. The plug could be for that, given that it is also near the front end of the plenum, but really....how would we be sure?

You shut your whore mouth!

See this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHh2-UdCro Then follow the advice therein to look into the 490 series hose and fittings. If there is no fitting available from that source (Speedflow, I think) then there is probably nothing. In which case your options narrow down to trying to TIG an AN end onto the end of the Nissan fitting, or remaking that fitting in steel (I mean outright fabrication which is not actually that hard if you've got access to the right metalworking gear) and making the new fitting have a male BSP or NPT thread on it so you can simply screw an AN fitting on.

Speedo can work to look at. If it is not sending a speed signal to the ECU then it is likely not sending a speed signal to any other CU either. I told you what the speed signals look like. Put an oscilloscope on the back of the cluster and look for the bloody signal already.

You really should read what has already been posted, because this is a very easy thing to do (both to search up and to achieve the 300kW).

Good stuff.

You have wired it wrong. Get the wiring diagram (for just about any similar RB engined car). The R34 one will do. Look at the wiring for that circuit. It appears next to the ECU pinout. You will see that the ECU provides the earth for the fuel pump on 2 terminals. One with the resistor to drop the pump voltage, one without and controlled by the original relay. The 12V+ battery to run all this comes from outside all of this lot. If you wire it up wrong you can be putting the new 12V+ onto the back side of the resistor and giving some voltage to each of the ECU and the fuel pump - keeping it running. You have to make sure that your new wiring does things in the same order as the original wiring, and make whatever disconnections you need to. You just need the ECU to provide the constant earth (not through the resistor) to make the new relay pull in.

Rotors don't warp anywhere near as often as people make out they do. It is usually uneven thickness, which can be from odd wear, or more usually, uneven deposition of pad binder compound onto the rotor surface. Get a mobile guy to come and give them a really light skim (on car is fine) and see if it fixes it. He will be able to look at the runout before he starts and tell you if they look like they are actually warped or not.

Don't you love how many misfires these days are from blocked cats and holed pistons?

Pretty much all old tech injectors do. Don't f**k about with them. Modern injectors are available. I cannot fathom why anyone would want to dick about with Nismos these days.

How much you wanna spend? Snap-On is an easy answer if you don't mind spending a lot.

They're both thongs. Just for different things. Same as the driveshafts. :D

You're opening yourself up to a discussion about jandals and chullybuns now!

The tail shaft is the shaft that runs between the gearbox output and the diff's input. This is a driveshaft, but we don't call it a driveshaft, because that's what we call the axles that carry the drive from the diff out to the wheels.

If speedo is working then speed sensor is working. +/- 1V sawtooth (AC) signal generated by the speed sensor is translated into 0-5v square wave PWM signal at the speedo head and transmitted on the Consult bus for all the CUs to read. if the ECU can't see it then the TCU and the HCU won't be able to see it either. Would suggest that either head has a fault or the wiring is broken in some way. Look at the wiring diagrams for ANY Skyline to see how that signal typically gets around, then chase its wiring around with a multimeter. If you want to look for the signal itself, you will need an oscilloscope of some description.

Wow. I posted in response to a slightly inane followup and that post is gone, leaving mine sitting there straight after my previous post. Weird. I am prompted to ask something.....are the N1 lenses perhaps plastic, not glass? You know, for lightness?

Sandblasting is the only way that glass lenses get "cloudy". Polishing glass is a different kettle of fish to trying to get rid of UV damaged polycarbonate.

Say waht? Was the idea of putting the GTR box in because it was imagined that the GTR box was stronger? That's a fail in logic right there, seeing as they are essentially the same gearbox. The only good reason for the swap has been non-availability of RB25 boxes and availability of cheap GTR boxes. Which is a situation that doesn't always make sense either.

What is a stage 2? Where are your power numbers? Flywheel or rollers? You will need turbo, ECU, injectors, probably a fuel pump and an AFM (if the ECU needs it). You will need these things. You can't just do one thing and drive away. The stock bits won't support the big turbo. There are dozens and dozens of threads on this topic just this year. Search. In particular, look at the sticky thread for RB25 turbo upgrades. Look at the Hypergear thread. Look at the EFR thread and the Garrett G series thread. These will all point you towards turbo choices.

I would say that there is a very very good chance that the OP's problem is NOT that the gearbox is stuffed. The reported symptoms are that a gearbox that worked in the old shell won't stay in gear in the new shell. It is my opinion that the new shell was an auto, the gearshift hole in the tunnel is in a different spot and the rubber shift boot, which is bolted to the tunnel is pulling the shifter backward. Seen it happen in my car. You need some delicate fettling to stop it happening. I think* I rotated the boot 180° to gain a little less tension in it. *was more than 15 years ago now, so memory is fuzzy.

Don't feed the troll.

Open circuit is........infinite resistance.

Someone is selling a Consult cable and ECUTalk setup on these very forums, for not much $$ at all. Otherwise, you go to a mechanic who has a scan tool and plug in and investigate. Fault codes aren't all that helpful if there's not a big enough fault to actually raise a code. What we're looking for here is what the ECU thinks the temperature is when hot, cold, plugged in and unplugged, plus what it might be doing to injector pulse widths while cranking under those circumstances.

Not sure. Can you get a Consult onto it to see what the ECU thinks is going on when you plug & unplug it?