GTSBoy

Nissan did it so that they could have less boost in 1st gear, or below certain rpm thresholds.

I think he means that it looks like a brake or clutch line, not part of the engine and that if it is a brake line, you will have a rude surprise at the end of your driveway.

Well......that's not quite true. The N1 block has been in production this whole time, and is not actually any different to the standard block. So this new "release" block is really just the same thing. They are making heads too. But they aren't making "engines". Yo uwon't be able to buy a newly made crate engine. Just the 2 main parts.

Um, no. The bleed valve is STOCK. That's how you get stock boost. But in order for it to be stock stock boost, and not the "ahem, secret squirrel stock boost that Mr Nissan actually wanted the cars to have but the gentlemen's agreement limiting them to 206kW meant they had to cripple it stock boost", it also has to have the little restrictor that they hid inside one of the vacuum hoses. That is usually the first thing that any GTR owner found and removed, because it gave back the power the car was meant to have but wasn't "allowed" to. Nothing you see in those photos is not as per Mr. Nissan's design, except the possible absence of that restrictor.

All bleed valves are restrictor based. You need a restriction to give the controlled bleed amount. Solenoid valves in these systems are either simple on-off (Nissan stockers are this) and they change between no bleed and bleed through the restrictor, or pulse controlled, making the solenoid a variable restriction in its own right and therefore the restrictor in the bleed. This all ignores what happens with multiport solenoids and multi-solenoid setups.

Got the manual?

The standard mod for standard GTRs was to remove a little restrictor from one of the boost hoses. Instant 14 psi IIRC. Shouldn't qualify as "overboost" but should be enough to max the gauge. It's also easily enough boost to show up a weak ignition system.

What this actually means is that 8 out of 10 people who attempt it will f**k it up and end up posting for help!

You buy it from.......Subaru. Walk up to the parts counter. It is literally called what I typed in my post. Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner.

Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner is actually a fairly good thing. A few points.... 1. Do not contemplate spraying these cleaners in pre-turbo. It will be a waste (of expensive product). 2. The method is to get the car warm, then stop it and spray half a can into the inlet manifold through a convenient port. If you have more than one convenient port, &/or really need to clean something like the IACV, then spray some in through wherever you can get to. You wait some minutes. Then you start the car and it may not want to run real well so you have to nurse it on the throttle, while spraying the remainder of the can in through a vac port into the inlet manifold. Keep it running at elevated revs until it stops spewing smoke out the exhaust. Subarus really benefit from it. It's standard practice at Subie dealers at services. I've done it a few times on the Skyline, because it actually can't hurt. It's solvent/detergent action to clean varnish and sludgy carbon, which I have seen it do a reasonably good job of. Anything upstream of the throttle, including the throttle itself, can be cleaned manually.

NP

I had to resync the dell'Ortos on my Alfa every couple of weeks. Between that and a box full of jets and emulsion tubes, I for one embrace our computer overlords and the ease they bring to tuning shit up.

My expectation is that aluminium front end panels would be in high demand. Any GTR that has suffered a front end collision has trashed the bonnet and or guards. These are usually scrounged off another car, not repaired. Must be in dwindling supply nowadays. I would think there'd be a big interest in seats and door trims. Anyone buying the bits that are already available for a restoration project would almost certainly jump on the most visible parts. Door glass (to get rid of scratches) would be a possibility, along with the various electrical components in the doors (window switches, power window boxes). Some of these things may still be around in some numbers in NOS, but I'd expect a lot to be running out.

I apologise. FWIW, I quite like Bunbury. Taco Tuesday at the Funkee Monkee would be enough to make it great even if it was a shithole. The fact that there are so many hot chicks running around town and the beach is great is enough to keep it well clear of being called that. Bunbury is a little slice of paradise and did not deserve to be in a list including places like Roxby Downs and Morwell. If any of you are from Morwell....please don't complain. I'm only shitting on the place because when I go there it is to visit APM and I come away smelling like boiled crab shells. Bloody pulp plants are the pits.

This is hilarious. I can't recall a time where you have ever "slaped" (I think you mean slapped) either of us. At least not in a way that we can understand you. If you can go back through your posts and put together a cogent and convincing narrative of times that you have properly and correctly told us off, proving that we were wrong on a technical point, and where you got overwhelming support from everyone else who must have been clearly in agreement that you were right and we were wrong, then I will happily agree that you have "slaped" us. And......go. The reality is, every single time you start typing a response to someone's technical question, instead of a clearly worded explanation we get batshit crazy sounding stuff expressed in words that no-one has ever heard used before. Even if you actually did know the real answer to something, we couldn't possibly interpret it from what is offered by you. So what you get from us is the usual "um, no" response. You then arc up over it, spout more unintelligible stuff and end up crying foul that no-one understands you. And you know what? That's the only point we can agree on most of the time. We can't understand you. I think you are also seriously deluded in your thinking that we change the "point" (I think you mean subject, but nonetheless, let us proceed) every time we get "slaped". Again, go back through the posts and put together a presentation that would convince the masses. Then we'll see.

I was going to say the same things as R32 TT just did. Pressure gauge hooked up to the breather vents, see what sort of pressure is in the system. (OK, not same, similar. He says measure at sump, and if the situation is bad the pressure down there will be higher than at top of engine). As to the catch can, a single small vent to atmosphere may be restrictive relative to the volume of flow coming out of the engine and lead to pressurisation, high velocity through it and easy oil mist carry over. The solution might be a 2nd catch can in series to try to give somewhere for the oil mist carryover to drop. If that worked, I would plumb the exit back into turbo inlet to not breathe to atmosphere at all and the suction from the turbo would also help to reduce the back pressure.

Actually, that may not be true. The ECU can be pretty flexible about not having the TCU on-line. ABS & TCS can be a lot more bitchy, but if it's NA, it won't have any of that anyway.

Because, dickhead, I spend half to 2/3 of my free time not having free time. I was in Bunbury all last week, for work, for example. When I communicate with you across the internet, I could be in the US, or in Belarus (shudder, ick), or the middle east somewhere (even more ick) or Thailand, or the UK. Or Gladstone, or Roxby Downs or any of a raft of shitholes in Victoria (like Morwell....even more ick). So occasionally it is actually easier to get some other schlub to do the work of rounding up some unusual parts for me.

Meth is a powerful drug.

It's not true. I have RB20 flywheel on 25Neo using the Neo's starter. They are all the same. You are going to have to Nistune the ECU otherwise it will pack a sulk from not having comms with the TCU. Just for clarity, this is a non-turbo Neo & auto you're talking about, right?

Boost what you have. It has to be the simplest option of the lot.

If that oil temp gauge is correct, then, yes it is a bit hot. Mine runs just over 90°C (real, on an aftermarket gauge), which is very similar to the water thermostat temp. Given that the oil and water exchange with each other under the oil filter, that's to be expected. It only gets as hot as your photo shows when crawling along in traffic and it is 40+°C outside. Your gauge or sender could be crook, so it might be nothing. Well worth investigating though. You would most easily do that by hooking up something temporary. You could also put the factory sender into some near boiling water and see what it and the gauge say. The service manual should have info on what the sender resistance and voltage should be at various temperatures. (Read that to say that I'm not going to be bothered looking it up at this point). If it is popping and carrying on, the ignition timing could be retarded, which would also cause it to run hot. You'd expect the coolant to get hot too, but the problem with factory water temp gauges is that they have an enormous deadband in the centre. The real temp can vary wildly and the gauge won't move, to stop the feebleminded from panicing - OMG! It's getting too hot! it would be worth putting the car onto a dyno with a Consult hooked up and just looking at what timing it's running, water temp, etc etc. Could do that on the road with 2 people, but dyno makes it easier and safer plus you can put a timing light on it at the same time and see whether the CAS is set right.

Nonsense! Bandaids are the literal and figurative solution to every problem.

Sticky injectors that won't move until they've got a little heat into them is a possibility. But otherwise, I concur with Lith. You have some cause to be worried about your engine. The earlier advice ref pulling them out and having them cleaned properly is the only sensible choice you have here.

Ok i will definitely try that out when i take the head off to put in some valves, springs and retainers. Im a little confused on the usefulness of the head drain after reading through the oil control thread as people seem to lean more towards the inportance of the catch can working well and draining/breathing properly? The head drain does drain a little extra, but it's main action is to provide an increase in the cross sectional area of flow paths upwards through the engine. Crankcase gases that have more room to flow will flow more slowly, and pick up less oil, letting it drain to the sump. That's why all the other things mentioned in the oil control thread that you can and should do are just as likely to fix an oil carryover problem.