GTSBoy

R32 GTSt

You're going to have to chase the loom with a multimeter. There's nothing we can do to help you find the vehicle specific fault that is causing that. It could be anything from a broken wire to a multi-pin plug not assembled correctly. Start probing. Use the RB20 wiring diagrams from the R32 GTR workshop manual.

I would think it means it has a blockage in the galleries somewhere. When I bought my Neo it took a year and >6 coolant flushes to get it clean. When it first went in there was muck blocking up all the small passages. I had to dig the bleeders out to even get coolant to move through there. The heater not working points to a stuck heater tap. They get gooey crap in them and it can make it too hard for the actuator to push it.

Yup, that's f**ked. Corrosion pit, by the looks. Needs to be bored out.

Methanol is not dangerous to store. A properly set up system should only use a few litres per month. WMI is heaps better than water only, although water only does work. But you're not listening to us about the bandaid.

Actually, that is correct. It ends up running at ~90°. When you said "82°" I thought you meant the running temp, not the start of opening.

No, what you do is you undo them a little to let the air out, then close them when coolant starts to come too. Swap back and forth between those and the other things you're doing while you're trying to bleed it all up. That's why they're called bleed screws.

Yuh, the bleed screws are for bleeding while it's getting hot also. Air will get trapped up there if you leave them closed.

Red coils is dead coils.

I concur with these guys. ^ . It's not bled properly. And put a 90° thermostat back in it. Neos aren't meant to have 82° thermostats.

You don't need WMI for what you problem is. It sounds like your turbo is making the air waaaaay hotter than it should. You should first investigate what the hot side air temp is under load. WMI is a bandaid in this situation. You'd be better off finding out what is actually wrong and dealing with it. That might mean a different tuner, because this guy's clearly not able to punch through the evidence to the source. And, to answer your specific questions.....yes, demin water is required because tap water has salts in it that dry and deposit when it evaporates. If you think about the process you are using the water for, I think it will become obvious why that is important. And methanol is methanol. Any industrial grade near pure methanol will be fine, so long as the balance of the mix is not something bad, like formaldehyde. If it is 95% meth and balance water......

Need more volts to bridge a bigger gap. Only so many volts available. Yellowjacket volts are also a mixture of randomly selected small and medium sized volts instead of a consistent selection of standard metric volts.

No, he meant Freddy, as in the cheap Chinese knockoffs of the Greddy plenum that everyone has been calling Freddy for the last 15 years or so.

Why the hell is any "top shelf" damper being made in a twin tube design in this day and age? FFS!

Dammit, that would have been so much better if my post got in first.

Clean the wet spot off with degreaser, run the AC for a little while and go back and have a look.

Should take >20 psi without damaging anything. Just needs to not have whatever problem is causing the misfire and a check of the tune to make sure it was actually tuned to take the boost.

It's a fair assumption. They're solid, not hydraulic, so "stuck lifter" has a different meaning. Stuck hydraulic lifters are not uncommon. Stuck buckets are a bad sign.

Worth a look then.

Well, there's your problem. Now find out why.

It's no so much the cooling down as it is the brakes, the strength of the chassis (which will stretch if pulling more load than it can handle, especially uphill). Just rolling along for hundreds of km at a steady speed won't cause any grief at all, except with the coppers if they decide you look like you belong on Highway Patrol.

Except that he said it would go hard if it was already rolling, whereas a soft inlet collapse should prevent that too.

Nice. That's a charcoal version of mine. RB20 can make power, but they are nowhere near as pleasant to drive around as a 25. The extra torque, especially off idle, just makes them so much easier to drive around in traffic. I frequently drive mine 1-3-5 or 2-5, which is not really feasible with the 20. So I think you either turn the 20 into a 10000 rpm screamer, or plan on a bigger transplant.

This is not an RB quirk. You're either losing fuel or spark (either totally, or just enough to stall it). You should get a laptop (with Nistune) hooked up to it and look at the feedback as you drive it to stall.