GTSBoy

It's just that it looks like it's all gone dry, but when you wet it the different materials darken differently and you can see the traces of the remaining guide coat, which are otherwise too thin to see when dry.

Experience has shown that trying to get the simple boost controllers (I have a Profec) set up on the dyno leads to needing to do it all on the road again afterwards. The dyno load is sufficiently different that the gain always ends up wrong and the start boost is wrong, and it ends up surging. Not compressor surge - just overboosting and carrying on. People are probably somewhat acustomed to the modern reality of Haltechs, et al, controlling to a closed loop target.** It's no skin off my nose. The dyno is easily accessible for the little extra tuning that will be required afterwards. And as you say - I stand to gain some useful info. ** On that subject, the idea of torque modelling/targetting is apparently a big OEM thing now. Look at Jason's Engineering Explained YT video on the new Corvette's turbo control system. This sort of thing would appear to be quite achievable in modern aftermarket ECUs, I should think. Is this what people are already doing to avoid the "boost target is 20 psi and I'm going to get there even though the throttle is only 50% open!!!" that I imagine simpler closed loop control would yield?

Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.

Sane enough. Remove the roof liner, because the acid will go everywhere.

A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway.

Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in a manual R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whole bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).

Not in any way aroused by any of those, except maybe the big AMGs. And that would break my never a Euro, ever, rule.

Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.

And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.

I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.

R32 GTR wiring diagram

And yet....OEMs put both guages and lights into cars, fed by separate primary elements, for a reason. Oil pressure sensors fail at a significantly higher rate than oil pressure switches. When the HMI has 2 outputs, each with its own separate input, the redundancy makes it far more likely that the operator will notice a problem - particularly if one of those systems has a fault. I'll keep my oil pressure switch feeding the dash light, thanks.

Hopefully not shockproof. It does crappy things to good synchros.

If by "flap disc" you meant "chocolate wheel".... then they are OK for getting off stubborn remnants. But not for stuff with bulk depth. If by "flap disc" you meant "abrasive paint f**ker"....

Warm it up with a hair dryer or gently with a hot air gun.

Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.

Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.

It always ends with the car burning down.

Yeah, but we're talking about an NA Neo 25 here. Even with the extra weight of the AD gear, it should still be reasonable. GTSTs and GTTs only use bulk fuel around town because they run <11:1 mixtures and the drivers can't help getting up on boost just to hear the noises.

Probably. Presumably everything else in that stack is rigid material of one sort or another. I haven't had mine apart in so long that I can't remember!

Is the pressure switch healthy? Have you put the control unit into diagnostic mode to see what it has to say about faults? FWIW, it should not short cycle like that. In fact, the fact that is is "climate control" means that the compressor should usually stay on all the time, and the controller blends the super cold air from the evap with heated air from the heater core to achieve the setpoint you're asking for. The only time when it doesn't do that is when it is set to "ECON" mode. I think.

To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.

Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.

That's a function of the fuel pressure reg, not the pump. The pump can do more, needs to be able to do more. The reg keeps the pressure in the rail constant above whatever the manifold pressure is.

You need enough post count to have PMs enabled. It will come. They are not the same. The NA box is the skinny little box and the turbo box is the big heavy one, and the yokes are not interchangeable.