GTSBoy

I don't see evidence that the engine is struggling up top. The torque curve does not roll over at all. That would not suggest high backpressure. Was it measured?

It's as sensible as any other modification to an NA Skyline, You're going to need to put in an LSD, gearbox, tailshaft and brakes to make it happen, same as if you turbo'd or turboswapped an RB. And then it will sound gross like a Falcon. But if you don't mind that, go ahead. It has been done. You can probably search up some examples, although there won't be too many of them here. Just out there in other forums and the tubes and so on. 'twere me doing a complete engine swap.....I'd be looking at a Mercedes V12.

You don't need a wideband. At the minimum it is a tuning tool, so only used when tuning. Old ECUs (like a Nistuned stock ECU) can only use narrowband and so can only target stoich mixtures when on closed loop fuelling. More modern ECUs can use the wideband all the time to target other stoichiometries when in closed loop and can be set up to auto-tune the fuel map just as you drive around (which is still, technically, "tuning"). And you can have alarms and actions on incorrect mixture detection, etc, that are not possible with narrowband. If I were putting in a Haltech/Link, etc, there is no way that I would not have a wideband with it.

I'm staying Nistune until I am forced not to. And I tune myself. Well, some of my tuning anyway. My Bro-in-law is a gun tuner and much prefers to be in control on the dyno. I just make some changes with road tuning when required. But I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND trying to tune an engine from a cold start (and I'm talking about you being a cold start, not the engine). Recipe for unhappiness. It is something you need to build up familiarity with and skills on.

Yeah, but it's not a good motor as used in the donor car. Low revving and low power, courtesy of tiny camshaft lobes, as per all other Nissan V8s. You have to tear them to pieces and put them back together the way that god intended before they're any good.

I know where there is a complete Profec B spec II available, if you want one of those.

Well there's your prahblem.

The obvious Youtube exposed guys, being Knight Family Motorsport or Cleveland.

The day an RB needs any belt more fancy than a Pitwork belt is the day I eat one.

Sunshine Coast?

No. No they are not. Coils in any shade of the rainbow other than the OEM black and the official blue of Splitfire are to be regarded with massive suspicion. Some of them work, many of them are very cheap crap. Impossible to tell between them until it's misfiring on the dyno. There are people who swear by a particular rainbow brand, including those Supersparks, saying that they ran well for them. Those are the lucky people who managed to get a whole set of 6 good ones. Many other people got 3 good ones, 1 bad one and 2 really bad ones. Bought another set, got some different split between the possibilities. It doesn't matter these days, because no-one in their right mind would use stock format coils on an RB, now that you can buy massively strong and good quality pencil coils and conversion kits for ~double what a set of Splitfires cost. I have Splitfires and they are fine for my power level, but if they start to play up I will be putting R35 coils in.

It would be possible to set up some aftermarket ECUs to use the AFM, but many can't at all and almost everyone takes the opportunity to throw the AFM in the bin. Not having an AFM makes a lot of things easier, like turbo inlet plumbing, dealing with reversion and BOVs and so on.

^^Bogan's story is probably valid. Gearbox was recently out of my car for clutch problems. My clutch fork was considerably worn, after 10ish years of being locked inside the bellhousing and driven in traffic every day.

^^ All true, except that RB25s idle at 650.

I have FP2 and I have a Profec. I would want the ease of fiddling with the boost setting (even though you do it so infrequently that many would say it doesn't matter) from outside of Nistune, because setting boost controllers at the lights is easier on even the most obtuse Japanese boost controller interface than is juggling a laptop.

Perhaps it is more correct to say that "support" needs to be put into context. If the core is just too small (cross sectional area internally for the charge flow) and puts up a lot of pressure drop, then the turbo has to make way more boost than is eventually seen at the engine which makes the turbo work harder, increases exhaust backpressure, etc etc. Not good. So, to "support" 300kW, the cooler has to be big enough to not do that, and also big enough to shed the heat that you need it to for the use case. heat dissipation requirements for single street pulls is different than for drag is different than for circuit, etc.

Tomei and other Jap tuning house ECUs generally are just a stock ECU with a burnt EEPROM in them, with the maps changed to remove some fuel under load and add timing. Sadly, they generally assumed 100 octane Jap fuel, which means they frequently caused engines to detonate to death when used here. You can probably still Nistune it, which would be the only sensible way to run a stock ECU anyway, particularly for drift, as you are going to want to put a safe and decent tune in it. The stock tune is "safe" but not "decent", as it has quite ridiculous "rich and retard" in the upper right corners of the maps. Not as bad as on RB25 ECUs, but still, AFRs of ~10 at high load is not the way to make power.

What's the marking on the dead belt?

Any engine open rebuild is either completely stock, or....you do everything.

Is this a question? Just take it apart and fix whatever it is that broke. Could be the clutch pivot, could be the clutch itself. Could be the hydraulics despite what you think you can see.

Adjustable length arms are legal in Oz. It's just spherical joints that are not legal (unless engineered). It is a pure myth that adjustable arms are an instant defect. I have adjustable arms all over my daily driven 10000km/yr car. And some of them even have (very sneaky) spherical joints in them. FWIW, for an R32, the ONLY way to have adjustable camber worth a damn in the front, is to use the GKTech FUCAs. They are a complete pain in the arse to work with on a streeter, but they are the only ones that don't bend or break and yet still do all the things that they absolutely have to do. Every other FUCA option on the R32 is a waste of time. I have used adjustable poly bushes in stock arms. They flog out badly. I have used the I shaped one from (I can't remember where right now, but have posted extensively on the topic so you could search if you cared) and they flog out and bend at the spot where they pivot in the centre. The pivoting in the centre is the feature that led me to try them, as the rigid stock style and almost every other aftermarket arm loads up the bushings massively (causing the flogging out) because the Nissan boys did not sort out the kinematics of the arms properly. This is why they changed completely for the R33&4. On the rear, adjustable length uppers and traction rods. Then you have to make yourself a bump steer gauge so you can adjust the traction rod length to give the smallest amount of bump steer. You can't just guess and and you can't just guess when you use adjustable poly bushes there either (although there is far less possibility of f**king it up with poly bushes because they don't offer 3/10th of f**k all adjustment).

Wot he ^ sed.

I posted this on March 10

Well, maybe 10mm.

As usual, it's always something from left field!