GTSBoy

Yeah, but what about the measurements that matter, like the eyebrow height?

Maybe the mech. Unless the roof shape is the same, I wouldn't expect the panel, and therefore maybe parts of the frame to fit.

Yuh, wheels are too big and the car is too low. You have to fix at least one of those, or better, both. Cannot have cake and eat it too.

You ran it lean under boost. It could be f**ked.

Well, it doesn't look like a faked up plate - in that it looks like it should, other than that paint code. But there are no 4 digit paint codes. You've probably already looked at it, but GTR registry doesn't list R32 GTRs made in any colours other than 326, 732, AH3, BL0, KH2, the silvers (KG1/KL0), and TH1. Ignoring the handful in bright red and dark metallic green. The paint in that photo looks like it might be dark blue pearl (TH1).

Something's f**ked. Fuel pump, blocked filter, or something else fuel related. Blocked cat or something exhaust related. It is definitely engine, not gearbag, causing it.

I might be wrong, but I thought the Z3X chassis diffs had CV joint input flange to the diff, like GTR, not like RWD R chassis.

Further to that and my advice ref the tweeters, have a look for my post about a year or so ago where I built some pods for the 6.6s I put in. Tweeters look good by the way. That's a decent mount.

Yeah, I've always looked at the 7163 in the same way that Josh appears to be doing, in that it seems to be a "magic" turbo for what can best be described as "sensible" power levels. And maybe that is more true on a 2L than on a 2.5 or 2.6L engine. I always sort of thought that if I was going to go to the effort to completely change everything on my (remember, very nearly stock) setup, that I'd want a 7163. And at the same time I knew that there were all sorts of reasons why it wasn't a great choice, to do with flange styles and wastegates and so on. And I would never have demanded 600+ HP out of whatever I did. I think for a daily that is driven in traffic, there is little point in choosing a turbo that can do those sorts of numbers. And I want to be able to knife fight with the Karens in their CX-5s, not be left in the dust by the mad bitches. But....it seems like the G30s are actually the answer, even if they do seem like they are too big according to my possibly misguided priorities of the past. What I actually want is an RB25 that comes on boost at 2000 rpm (or even better, if possible) so that there is some more torque than you get from the pre-boost threshold output, and is on max boost nice and early, say before 3000, and is happy to run out to 7500 or a bit more, making 500ish (engine) HP, ie, the upper 200s rwkW territory. I want better than stock characteristics at the bottom end and about double stock power at the top end. I suspect that's why I still think about blowers.

The answer to the problem of twin turbos never providing the benefit they were intended to provide (earlier spool and better response for the same power level) is always answered by twin-charging.

Should be 4.3

If you want to do polls on here, then this forum is as good a choice as several others, better than most. You might want to contact the admin to inquire about "advertising". There are some rules.

And I reckon stock switch-off is about 4700-4800, depending on Neo/vanilla. I get the impression that if an adjustable exhaust gear is used or bigger cams are installed, that there is usually good reason to increase that to ~5500. Results will vary, consult you doctor, etc etc.

What's normal?

Your measurement technique will never tell you the deck height. Tape measures are not accurate enough, and you need to measure from the centreline of the crank, not the bottom of the skirt. I don't know what the correct dimension is. Hopefully someone will chime in with it. But in the mean time, buy yourself a good quality 1000mm ruler and a straight edge. The straight edge is to take the place of the crank. You need to bolt on the main caps, and measure from the top of the main bearings to the deck, and from the bottom of the bearings to the deck, and average those two numbers.

Well, just going by your description, it is the engine that is struggling. The struggle could originate in the engine, meaning that it is weak (weaker than it should be) in all gears and only becomes exposed by the tall gearing of 5th.

Just be aware that this might not be caused by the box. It might be clutch/flywheel balance issues, or it could be that there is actually something wrong with the engine that was being masked by the torque converter. Something like badly out is whack valve timing, or low compression or something equally shitty.

If the SAS dies then HICAS will fault. There's only one way to make the drive dog/pin for the SAS engage the steering wheel. It's either on, or it's smashing it up.

For me, just a DIY kit to replace the hinge and vinyl/padding. The rest of mine is structurally sound. Whether you would find enough takers (for even that much effort spent) to justify the work is a harder thing to estimate, as there are very few of these out in the wild. If you were to make the whole thing, including the armrest for the top part and the cupholder that replaces the original armrest, you might be able to sell them to people who would like to upgrade. If there are enough of them, that is.

The GTS4 was available with a manual, and 5th wasn't particularly taller in the GTR box than in the 20 box (if different at all, and it's probably the same). So, it is absolutely not that the 20 doesn't have the torque to pull the gear. It should be able to cruise v. nicely at 70 km/h or more in 5th. Not up any slopes, not with any hope of accelerating if you need it, but certainly cruise. I know this because I went from R32 auto to R32 with manual DET box (and then to 25 with 25DET box and that is where you really realise how little torque the 20 actually has, if you hadn't beforehand!). I wouldn't often use 5th below 80 because the revs were quite low and there was less vacuum and it tended to use less petrol if you kept the revs up a little more in 4th. But it was fine at 80 and up. So, it is more likely that there is a weird/severe/unexplained problem in the box. Maybe a knackered bearing in the 5th/reverse shaft area.

You still can. Just highlight the bit you want to quote, and then press the quote button that ops up next to it. Rinse and repeat.

OK, I just looked at the photo for the first time. Those hoses are probably vacuum. Where they go to/from is a mystery to me, as my Neo turbo PS pump does not have that on the pump outlet connection. You'll notice almost any search for "Neo power steering pump" will turn up pictures with out that can and the smaller hoses. But with a little more effort, you get this. Only respect the answer from Fit_Cow.

Doesn't google work?

Yuh, I have that one and the hinge is broken and the vinyl on top is cracked from years of elbows. I have been meaning to put effort into doing a better job of repairing the hinge (already done once, years ago, didn't last) and retrimming the top. But new made replacements would be even better. The hinges are very low science, basically just being folded plastic. Any effort spent working out what to do to fix it on this lid would probably (maybe only possibly, depends on whether there's any commonality) be applicable to the normal lid's hinge too.

At least the hinge, if not the whole lid, for the armrest. Not the normal low height, longer armrest that was standard. The taller, shorter length one with the cupholders under it that was an uncommon option.