Cowboy1600

I call bullshit. You see them advertised for $8k but I bet they don't sell for anywhere near that much unless they are a bit special.

Where are you located?

I'll swap my Stag then you can swap it for his 31?

Damn you! That's what I'm looking to do

Why a VQ35 is the real question.

Willing to post the bar?

With the wheel change it's likely you've kinda gone nowhere.

10.3 kilometers per litre. That's about 9.8l per 100 ks. I'll admit, not quite Stagea level, but not what I'd call economical.

Great economy my arse! I've got a Pulsar, which has the same drive train in a lighter car. It drinks fuel like my Stagea. I struggle to get over 10.3k/L (yes, that's what the car trip meter reports). I really wanted the Juke but the back seats are basically pointless. My Pulsar has rear seats that put a Falcon to shame.

They look insane. $55k drive away is a bargain too. Got two years to run on my current lease. The RS will be a strong contender for a replacement then. Can't wait for Chris Harris to test it.

Wot he said! I want a new front bar. Would defo fork out these prices for a CF jobbie. Would likely bee keen on bonnet and guards, too.

Condition of steering wheel?

Passenger door could have had the rust fixed. All Stags rust under the mirror. Owner might have cared enough to fix it which is possibly a good sign. I got my car with 130,000ks on it and the steering wheel had a hole in it. My brand new Nissan Pulsar has 30,000ks and the steering wheel is already very worn in the same area. Nissans seem to have an issue with their steering wheels (never had the issue in other cars). There are potentially valid reasons for most of what you have pointed out. Also most people use "stock" to explain mechanical condition, not body kits.

That thing looks mint. Get it checked by someone who knows then, assuming it's good, throw a low ball offer at him.

I've got brand new Splitfires with BCPR7ES (I think, or whatever Trent told me to get). On 18psi I still had a misfire. Gapped them to about .6mm and they are all good. I think you should be aware that results with coilpacks and plugs seem to vary quite greatly on RBs for some reason. Two people can have identical set ups but have two very different experiences. There's obviously something else in play, but plug gaps are the only known fix as far as I am aware.

I had the same issue at 235rwkw. Gapped the plugs to about .6mm and it's sweet as.

It's likely that was a press day where he took lots of people for a spin in his car, hence lots of marks. EDIT: Oh, and I'm sure those vids you posted are vids of the first ever time that guy drove those roads.... Double edit: I find the Hoonigan stickers on Ryan Turek's car ironic. Hoonigan is literally Ken Block's brand.

Don't need to do a group purchase. The reason for me leaving my car there originally was for him to make a jig. That means he can pump them out on an as needed basis at a good price.

Woo, actually +6 8.5 will not be good. I just remembered I'm running 8.5 fronts. That puts you 13mm further outboard than mine. Will be poking quite a bit by then. In 8.5s +18 will be a great fit.

+6 in8.5 should fit up front. Gunna end up pokey out back though.

I've got 18x8.5 +19 on the front with 245s and they fit beautifully. We test fitted 9.5 +15s on the rear and they stuck out too far. +22s are spot on for the rear IMO (On a C34 rs4s). Will need guards rolled if the car has a decent amount of low installed though.

Jesus, what do I have to do..... Nothing will defend your car from being stolen. If someone, who knows what they are doing, wants it then there is nothing you can do to stop them. You can choose to worry about it which would kind of defeat the purpose, or make sure it's insured and accept that what will be will be.

Of course it's f**king annoying, didn't say it wasn't. But the only impenetrable defense against car theft is good insurance. Absolutey nothing will make you car unstealable. Worrying about it is pointless and futile. Get good insurance and enjoy your car.

It's just a f**king car. Make sure it's adequately insured and stop worrying.

Nope. I've run into a problem with mine (18x9.5 +32) They hit the strut on the inner lip going over bumps. I'mm going to run 10mm slip on hub centric spacers with longer wheel studs to get around the issue. For 9.5s you want minimum of +22 i've decided, based on my experience. So 9s give you about 6mm extra clearance,, so you'd want max of ~+28 offset.