R31Nismoid

Entry is #1 atm. Sorting sponsors out this week, hopefully have most of em signed next week. Entry for 2-3 weeks after that.

-exhaust manifold, turbos, dump pipes front pipe, intake pipes Same - wholes brembo brake system front and rear Yes, but are a gross waste of money -front seats Same as above - injectors / coilpacks Injectors yes, coil packs no. Coilpack setup is different on the R34 and not as reliable. Better to get splitfires/OEM packs for a R32 GTR and stick with that. Stock ECU is also different as a result, and some aftermarket ones (R32/R33 PowerFC for instance = same, R34 = different)

hehe ye, just drive a truck and you'll be close without any paperwork at all! 2 years drive truck PROFIT? Well "in general" or "70-80"? Chinese whispers again!

460rwkw. Or just read the dyno thread that has... Results

PD or BN stuff mixes really well, no chance it'll clump if you store correctly, and consume in 5mins. Sif get a blender

You should order a pink blouse now too, will match you strawberries

Haven't tried chocolate yet, but I like strawberries... Such a subjective question.

Just get 1kg of the WPI then (while you are ordering, might as well)

1. If there is a restriction you'll see the turbo side making "X"psi, and near the T/B you'll see a drop. Not uncommon to see a 1-1.5psi drop - anymore than that is certainly an issue. Also test as close to turbo & T/B as possible so that way you take into account all the piping bends etc. Just thought of another - Inlet temps. 2. Pre/Post cooler temp. You might find that it's not cooling the air enough - which is not neccesarily a restriction/cooler problem "as such". Often the better "cooling" cores are slightly restrictive (1-1.5psi as opposed to .5-1psi for higher flowing) Are you logging inlet temps? That could be a reason you are being held back also. If those two show up nothing, then it'll be somewhere else possibly.

Turbo failure. Rear turbo fails usually, ceramic dust/particles end up scatterd across the piston top/eating up ringlands and on occasion some marks on the valves. Not really sure how torque/stock turbos is going to kill a stock RB26

LOL... I'm out, won't be home from work in time!

Wrong. Engineers doesn't cover EPA in Vic.

I'll give you some of mine if you wanna risk it ya girl

Tyres looked almost new in the garage shot Good work mate, bringing it down to Calder too perhaps?

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

No one is scaring anyone by giving the facts and potential dangers, better to have the information & make an informed decision - than not at all. It's just comes down to a calculated choice as follows. Can you afford the rebuild? If you can, carry on. If you can't, then play it safe. What one deems to be safe - arguable. There is enough evidence from users personal experience to make a reasonably informed "idea" of safe - if you wish. Of course "shit happens", thats life. But you can reduce the risk of shit "happening", is all people are saying. There was poor bloke recently who lost a forged motor by putting stock turbos back on as he didn't have the cash for nonceramic at the time. Running 1bar too. That's the stuff that is really shit and really hate reading

It's both shaft speed and heat. Also #6 runs a bit hotter and hence its usually the rear that goes. I wonder what shaft speed is influenced by... But riddle me this, its a 10+yr old car with a history you can't say was always say was safe... How do you know it will be "fine". Is it worth that rebuild gamble?

Could be emissions related too?

Age. Put one turbo that has 80,000kms on it against one that had zero, there is a massive reliabilty issue here. At least with a set of 2nd hand turbos they will *most likely* have the same KM's. Was recently talking to someone that each year throws out/replaces their set of -5s (on a race car). Each time they pickup 15-20rwkw each time (on around 28-30psi IIRC). I found this to be quite interesting. Obviously race car season is a bit different but use 80,000kms @ 20psi, however it is still wear and tear which is highlighting this problem.

Also the other problem with Chinese stuff like KKR - you will never get any flow/pressure figures from them. Bit of a gamble to fork out & bolt it on and find out its no better than what you had

Have you tested flow yet Russ? Turbo outlet and then near the t/b? You might be able to use a xr6 core from Nizpro, they might suit, you'd have to call but they make 350-400 through em and are a different shape.

260 is much more believeable, Sif claim it was 280 if the dyno said 260! And to surcam, who cares how much you were running? Have a read of the engine fail thread, or other threads about dead 26s Whilst the turbos might not fail in every single case, some might be fine for years, there is enough information & users to prove turbo failure can kill your motor if they let go. Bit silly IMO to want that extra 10-20rwkw with the extra 2-3psi when it could cost you a 5-8k rebuild, not worth the risk at all. But then some places don't care if it kills a motor in 2 years time as they can then blame wear and tear, and make a lazy 2-3k outta a motor rebuild etc. (DISCLAIMER before e-rage: Not saying this is what Dart have done)

You could do it with a stock 25 too I'm sure. Well Nissan didn't get decent economy either now did they?

YES, ceramic.

THe trick is just right foot. IF I can get 450-500km around town in a 360rwkw 1700kg+ car... No O2 sensors either... Then you are doing it wrong if you can't get better. IF you use low amounts of throttle, youll barely come near boost. If you intend to have the gate open 100% of the time, and use more throttle... You will still eat fuel boost or no boost as its all about right foot control and a DECENT tune. not a 250 mail order special.