R31Nismoid

Not really no. Changing from the stock piping has well known possible side-effects. Compressor surge/reversion over the AFM. Which will basically ruin the setup. Not everyone suffers, and its a case by case basis - but you'd hate swapping and spending cash/time only to get to the tuner and find out you are up the creek.

Well i'd argue the "pipes" are mufflers, i mean a tiny bit of baffle does sweet fk all, so does the resonator. CAT realistically wont drop the noise much either. You need to either put a decent mid-muffler in, or live with it

Its just temp warning for the dash, basically useless cut it off or just tuck it away/cable tie

Ye Race Radiators are excellent, got one in my GTS-R Full size though, cools epically well

one is bigger - RB25 one is smaller - RB20 And given there are 100 results in the "RB20 Dyno" thread, I've great confidence in you working it out easily enough.

in my case id have been better of with a cheap battery as it wouldn't have suffered as bad you don't wanna fall asleep and near flatten them too much cause that's how my oddsy died basically

As above. RB20 turbo obviously would be cheaper and either way, you need a retune etc.

Lets be realistic. Of course you don’t need to spend big cash to run a 10 However to do it reliably – that’s the issue. Honestly I reckon in just parts and stuff I could get a car into the 10s for under 10k in parts if you DIY labour China turbo & dump to side pipe – 1500 China gate – 200 China manifold (or stocker modded) – 400 Nistune/Tune – 1000 Ebay hi-flow injectors or 2nd hand – 500 Cheap I/C kit – 500 Clutch – 1200 Drag radials/rims – 1.5-2k? Cage (need a cage to run 10s) – 1200 Misc piping and fittings etc – 1000 $9000 You’d run a 10 no problem. But you couldn’t expect the car to drive nicely, perform well or handle at all well. Running a 10 on the cheap really proves nothing more than it can be done, we all know that it can be done it’s just that people want to do it more than once.

Please be careful with such statements because fact is, they might not last 4 years. Depends on how they are used, if they are left to fully discharge etc. I killed a Oddessy in less than 2yrs due to the car going to/from workshops and not being charged often enough and running flat about 5-6 times in that period. Wish i had've known letting it run flat so few times would have done that... But live and learn So its very much subjective to use.

I'd be the plugs are fouled and/or the wrong type

That's cause you drive like a pussy Nick? hahaha Either way though, he has a choice - so get a 1.5 His car sounds relatively stock, he isnt aiming for drifting, so perhaps a not as experienced either... Logical choice really.

depending on what battery you want, size etc - you can do a lot better than 170

LOL Are you serious? He is doing a process of elimination - fact is, that costs money and time. If you want a proper job, dont be a tightass. Better to rule something out initially than not at all especially with that type of noise. You'd cry like a baby if it had smashed all the valves and he said it was just a VCT solenoid now wouldn't you?

As in the turbo is the problem not the manifold

Hi. Welcome to the forums. RB26 "TT" configuration has plenty of info, and plenty of 10+ page threads. Please search.

+1 And infact, there already is one.

At the 400rwkw level, nothing is simple for a street car. If you want big oil coolers, keep the aircon & then throw legalities into the mix and shit gets nasty. Indeed this is very true. But the setups are not identical. One car has a massively larger snorkel (nismo one is noticeably bigger), piping kit etc - same result for all intents and purposes as a 10rwkw different is nothing you will ever notice. So the only possible part is the aixbox itself, if it even is. As usual - the dyno doesn't necessarily tell the real story especially when heatsoak comes into it and robs you of power. Cooler intake charges are very important at this level. If you did go to a pod based setup, it would require a fair amount of customisation and fab to get it to work to the level of a stock airbox over say a 15min track sprint etc. A piece of tractor pipe feeding to a partially split pod isnt exactly a proper solution either For some people also the issue when modifying the front intake piping etc for pods - is AFM reversion/surge. Now i know Steve is D-Jet now, but others have not necessarily gone down that road (two cars above). For a dedicated track car and simply putting a pod or similar into the guards etc. No fuss, no worries that way - but different application

Manifold is a waste of money with that turbo in all honesty. if you want more, its bigger turbo but be aware on a 20, that's noticeable lag increase. even then depending on choice of turbo stock manifold is fine.

well you'll be in for a nice surprise when VCT is turned on and you see the difference. if you don't, then same as the other thread about it recently - the tuner is doing it wrong.

haha haha!

Nah come cvnt probably broke it. You know what my workplace is like

hrm it might be on the fritz, put it in the same way i do for everything else will workout something

FARK thats my fax LOL what was wrong with it? Said it was fine from my end

There is no charge. They charge cars between 40-60/run provided you can promise "X" amount of cars. That's all there is too it. But if you called even just one place... You'd already know that

Erm helper?